Experienced hikers and climbers know that often only the presence of a rope and special equipment can make the route accessible and relatively safe to pass. Most trekking routes around the world allow you to navigate them without using a rope. Sometimes, in dangerous places special cables, brackets or railings are secured on the routes.

In such cases, a helmet, protective gloves, and sometimes a harness and lanyards are sufficient for safe movement. This equipment has already been discussed in previous articles.

But on difficult hikes or climbs, rugged terrain may require more equipment. First of all, this is a rope and means of descending and ascending along it, as well as everything necessary for insurance. In this article I want to talk only about the most basic points that will make it easier for a beginner to take his first steps in the world of extreme tourism, especially if he takes them without detailed training from an instructor. After all, it often happens that tourists are faced with the use of such technical means on commercial climbs, where one guide/instructor for several people does not have the opportunity to provide quality training.

Rope

Depending on the possibility of use, there are two types - main And auxiliary . Main rope is used for:

  1. insurance,
  2. hanging railings,
  3. with its help, participants move in places with difficult terrain.

Auxiliary rope (rep cord, paracord) is used for:

  1. bivouac organization,
  2. on the construction of crossings,
  3. insurance of personal belongings and equipment,
  4. insurance of participants by making the so-called prusik (Prusik knot),
  5. rescue operations and other situations.

For both types of use it is better to use only certified products whose performance meets or exceeds what is required in each situation. This rule is must be strictly observed for all applications related to the safety of participants.

The main rope is of two types - dynamic(“dynamics”) and static("statics").

Dynamic rope manufactured in such a way as to stretch significantly under significant load. In this way, smooth shock absorption is achieved. The invention of dynamic rope has greatly improved safety in the world of extreme sports. The person using it suffers significantly less damage from a violent fall than when using a static rope.

It should be understood that stretch rope also has its disadvantages for certain types of use, primarily as vertical or horizontal railings, tension crossings, and lifting heavy loads. The “elastic band” effect makes using the rope in such cases inconvenient. In addition, dynamic rope is not a cheap pleasure.

In such cases it is irreplaceable static rope. On commercial routes at the most high mountains world, for example, Everest, kilometers of rope railings are hung every year. As a rule, from static ropes. They are more convenient, cheaper, and have very high wear resistance. Rope railings are also used when hiking Elbrus, its highest, western peak.

All types of ropes now have a strong, wear-resistant upper braid, and inside consist of large quantity strong fibers. Braiding is usually done bright colors. If you need several ropes, take different colors to avoid confusion. The condition of the rope must be carefully monitored; in the mountains it can become damaged due to exposure to aggressive environmental factors and human factors. The instructor must assess the nature of the damage to the rope. For a beginner, it is better to immediately abandon the idea of ​​​​using a damaged rope.

Today the average diameter of the main rope is about a centimeter. This thickness provides a balance of strength and wear resistance on the one hand, and weight, compactness and ease of use on the other. IN last decade There has been some tendency towards a decrease in the diameter of dynamic ropes. However, a single main rope is rarely thinner than 9mm.

Belaying with a rope

The points related to self-insurance were considered. On difficult terrain, self-belaying alone is often not enough. Then the group is divided into bundles, in which the participants belay each other with a rope, being tied by it.

Insurance can be simultaneous or alternating.

Simultaneous insurance used on relatively simple, but potentially dangerous terrain. The most common example is traveling in a team on a glacier. Participants all move at the same time, while they are tied together with a rope and are at a safe distance from each other - on average, 15-18 m. If one of the bundle suddenly falls into a crack, he is delayed by the weight of the other people in the bundle and the resistance of the rope cutting into the edge of the crack. Also, simultaneous belaying is widely used on narrow dangerous ridges, where it is possible to lay a rope separating the participants behind the protrusions of the relief. Sometimes, for simultaneous belaying, artificial points for securing the rope are used, which requires more serious skills.

Variable insurance used where simultaneous movement of participants becomes dangerous. In this case, one of the participants moves along the terrain, if possible, threading the rope through the belay points (if any), and the other carefully belays him. Typically, a safety device is used. The belayer carefully watches the partner in the rope moving along the terrain, gives out the amount of rope necessary for free movement or chooses the slack.

The insurer must be ready at any time to take all measures to detain the failed first number.

This is the so-called " bottom belay", since all points of reliable fastening of the rope are below the climber. Moving with bottom belay the most risky and requires good preparation.

After the first number has advanced along the terrain for the entire length of the rope or to a convenient/arranged place, he stops and organizes a base station at reliable belay points (large stones, teeth, stationary hooks or staples, mobile belay points) and prepares to receive the second number to yourself, providing him top belay.

Top belay more reliable and less traumatic due to the fact that in case of failure (with proper organization process) there is no significant fall of the failed participant. In this case, the belayer can be relative to the climber both at the top (during ascents) and at the bottom (during training). In this case, the rope must pass through a special ring or carabiner at the top of the route.

Railing insurance. Railing.

It is necessary to mention this type of insurance, which is very popular on commercial and sports climbs, and is considered group insurance.

By railing, as a rule, we mean a rope fixed on both sides (top and bottom), which often also has additional fastening points along its length (this is especially true for horizontal or diagonal railings). Such points of additional rope fastening are required at the bends of the railing path.

People usually move along the railings by clipping a lanyard into them using a carabiner (link) if the terrain is simple. If the terrain is difficult for the climber, then special clamps are used to prevent slipping down. The simplest and most accessible clamp is Prusik knot(cm.

Belay devices

For reliable variable insurance it is necessary to use special devices. Currently, a great variety of them have been invented. The main types will be discussed here, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

You need to understand that only the most affordable and popular devices for use on hikes are described here.

Knot UIAA (UIAA). This abbreviation stands for “International Mountaineering Federation”. It is the standards of this organization that are taken as the basis for the certification of almost all devices for extreme activities. The UIAA knot is perhaps the simplest method of relatively safe insurance. It can also be used for rappelling. All you need for this is a reliable carabiner, preferably steel, with a round cross-section (a carabiner made of a light alloy will begin to wear out quite quickly). This knot works “in both directions”, has two positions, in one of which the rope easily extends through the carabiner, and in the other it offers great resistance to passing through it.

Basics advantage This method of insurance is simplicity.

Disadvantages more. The main one is that the knot twists the rope very tightly, which after just one passage through the carabiner with the knot becomes unsuitable for further use without alignment. That's why, this method you should know rather “just in case.”

« Eight" This type of descender is very simple and reliable to use. Still would! There is simply nothing to break here. In addition to the eight, you also need a carbine.

Basic dignity- lightness, simplicity, cheapness. The ability for most designs to work with double rope, with thick, stiff or very dirty rope that may "refuse to cooperate" with more delicate devices.

From shortcomings- “twists” the rope, although not as much as the UIA knot. Requires increased care in use, as it does not have a self-blocking effect. A certain paradox occurs - a device that requires precise skills and is potentially one of the most dangerous, most often ends up in the hands of beginners due to its low cost...

« Cup" A technically more advanced group of devices. Just as light and almost as simple in design as the eights, but with a partial self-locking effect. There are many designs for double rope. Ideal devices? If only... They do not work well with rigid ropes and ropes of increased diameter...

Many homemade or original devices from small-scale manufacturers work on a principle similar to a glass - all kinds of “bugs”, “fungi”, “swallows” and other works of unstoppable engineering.

The devices listed above are convenient in that they can be used with equal success both for belaying and for rappelling. At the same time, they are light in weight, compact, cheap and best suited for beginners. Still, it’s hard for me to recommend the figure eight as the first belay device for a beginner.

There are a number of more bulky and specialized devices, used mainly in industrial mountaineering and speleology. They are bulky, heavy, high cost. Therefore, they are more suitable for professional use and will not be discussed in this article.

I cannot ignore another iconic safety device, which, however, can be used to a limited extent for descent - gri-gri (GriGri) from the famous French equipment manufacturer Petzl. Over time, the principle of operation of the device was borrowed by other manufacturers with varying degrees of success.

First of all, the device is popular among rock climbers and mountaineers. Its feature is semi-automatic operation. The operation of the device is somewhat similar to the action of inertial seat belts in a car - if you pull smoothly, the rope (belt) extends freely, but if you pull sharply, the mechanism is blocked. True, there are some nuances in using the device. However, it significantly increases the security of insurance. Unfortunately, limited use, high price (about $90) and the need for certain skills do not make this device best choice for a beginner.

Also worth mentioning separately Prusik knot . This ingenious invention is more than eighty years old and, despite significant advances in technology during this time, it is still widely used in mountaineering, tourism and other types of extreme activities. This knot is a type of noose - a type of grasping knot that has a pronounced self-blocking effect (if used correctly). Allows the climber to linger in the event of an unexpected fall. At the same time, it is very simple, weighs almost nothing and takes up exactly the same amount of space as a two-meter cord, from which it is most often made.

I believe that the reader understands that any information in any of the most excellent articles is just food for thought. It cannot be the only reason for using special equipment in extreme travel or other circumstances. I highly recommend practical training in the types of extreme activity you are interested in with a knowledgeable instructor. It also makes sense to conduct potentially dangerous hikes under the guidance of an experienced guide or people who have the necessary skills to perform more difficult activities than those required by the activity.

I wish you exciting, eventful, but safe adventures! The one who walks will master the road.

Regulations on technical competitions rope access

1. Goals and objectives:
- Prevention of injuries in industrial mountaineering.
- Determination of the best participant, taking into account the specifics of the profession.

Learning new ways of working. *Healthy image I removed life, because PA is not great at all. Erase this phrase in brackets*

Gaining extensive experience in rope work.
2. Time and place:
Vladivostok Marine College Vladivostok

February 23, 2013 09:00 – 19:00.
February 24, 2013 10:00 – 18:00
3. Competition management:

The general management of the organization and conduct of competitions is carried out by the Promalp DV Training Center in Vladivostok. The direct conduct of the competition is entrusted to the main panel of judges, approved by the conducting organization. For questions regarding the organization and conduct of competitions, please contact email: *****@***ru tel. +7* Is it worth leaving this data, or is it better to supply additional soap and bodies of the chief judge or organizer if it is not the same person? Erase this inscription in brackets*
4. Competition participants:
Persons who are over 18 years old at the time of the competition and who do not have medical contraindications are allowed to participate in competitions upon presentation of a valid industrial climber certificate (or copy). Those who submitted an application within the allotted time and provided an action plan within the allotted time (for the “Rescue Works” distance) * we need to change this name to something like “Pair Technique”, “Group Work”, “Team Work”, “Team Work” or something like that, otherwise we limit ourselves to rescue work. Delete what is in brackets*


5. Conditions:

Some conditions may change during the course preparation
5.1. Competitions are held in accordance with the requirements of the RM, current GOSTs, “Temporary safety rules in industrial mountaineering”, IRATA Code of practice, as well as these Regulations. Each participant must have 2 independent points of insurance at any time that meet the technical requirements.
5.2. All Participants will go through stages in basic sets equipment. If a participant wants to complete the distance in his kit, the kit must meet all the requirements and pass the technical commission 30 minutes before the start. During the stages you will be able to use additional equipment, but for separate penalty points.
5.3. Competitions are held in two types: individual championship (access technique) and team championship (rescue work) *I think it's worth removing this. Don't forget to delete what I wrote*
5.4. Competitions are held using a penalty system.

5.5. The “Personal Technique” distance consists of a theoretical and practical test.
The result of the theoretical testing will be summed up over time in the practical part, and will influence the place taken in the “Personal Technique” distance. If a participant is not present for testing, he receives a maximum penalty (10 minutes).
5.6. The start of participants in the “Personal Equipment” distance is carried out by a forced draw. At the “Rescue Works” distance, participants choose their starting number in the order of places occupied at the “Personal Equipment” distance; if the sum of places is equal, preference is given to the highest place. * I think it’s worth removing this point and setting the fact that they start according to the draw*

5.7. The competition will take place in a warm room.

6. Security
Responsibility for the safety of the distances, referee safety equipment and issued personal equipment lies with the organizers of the competition. Participants themselves are responsible for the safety of their personal equipment.
Representatives of sending organizations and team members bear personal responsibility for compliance with safety regulations, compliance with discipline and environmental standards at the competition site.

7. Approximate competition program
February 23:
9:00-11:00 – Credentials Committee.
11:00-11:15 – Opening. All those who do not show up are removed from the competition.
11:15-11:30 – Testing.
11:30-12:00 – Show of the route.

12:20-12:40 – Reception of the list of additional equipment.

13:00-15:00 – Distance “Personal technique”.
15:00-15:30 – Break.
15:30-18:00 – Distance “Personal technique”.
18:30 – Draw and demonstration of the “Rescue Works” distance.
24 February:

10:00-10:30 - Reception of the plan for completing the “Rescue Work” distance and a list of additional equipment.
10:30-14:30 - “Rescue work” distance (team of 2 people).
17:30-18:00 - Awarding of the winners, closing of the competition.
8. Summing up:
For each distance, the results are summarized separately:
8.1. The test result is summed up with the time of the “Personal Equipment” distance. The winner is determined by the least amount of time.
8.2. “Rescue work”: team - 2 people, the winner is determined by the least amount of time.
In case of a tie, the participant or team has the advantage:


With fewer penalty points

Girls

Early Starters

9. Awarding the winners:

Prizes and diplomas are awarded to participants who take 1st, 2nd, and 3rd places in the “Personal Equipment” distance.

Prizes and diplomas are awarded to teams that take 1st, 2nd, and 3rd places in the “Rescue Work” distance.

10. Acceptance of applications:
To participate in the competition, you must download and fill out a special form from the official website of the Promalp DV training center http://www. ***** and send it to email*****@***ru, until February 10 inclusive. The number of applications for “Personal Distance” is 60 participants (subject to change), for “Rescue Work” - 30 teams. The application must indicate: Full name, date of birth, place of residence, sports category(mountaineering/rock climbing/speleology, if any), certificate number (where and when received, where and when extended), the distance in which you intend to perform (Personal equipment, Rescue work). If accommodation is required, this must be notified by February 10th.
11. Financing:
Costs associated with organizing and holding competitions, awarding winners are borne by the organizer of the competition - the training center "Promalp DV"

Expenses associated with the participation of teams in competitions are borne by the sending organizations or the participants themselves.

at the “Personal Equipment” distance - 100 rubles per person,

at the “Rescue Works” distance - 300 rubles per team.

Hotel rooms can be booked to accommodate non-resident participants. In the preliminary application, you must indicate the need to provide a place in the hotel before February 10.

Cost per place per day

2-seater

5 5 0 rub.

3-seater

50 0 rub.

4-seater

4 7 0 rub.

12. Additional information:*This point needs to be inserted somewhere above*

If a participant does not submit a list of additional equipment used at the “Personal Equipment” distance on time (in writing), then he is automatically considered to be starting in the basic set.

At the “Personal Equipment” distance, before the start is announced, it is prohibited to carry out any (except for untangling) manipulations with the ropes and part of the training ground involved in the distance. It is allowed to carry out any manipulations with basic set and additional equipment taken. *Maybe I’ll write something differently here, I don’t know. Erase what is written here in brackets*

If a team does not submit a plan for completing the “Rescue Work” distance on time (in writing), then the team is removed from the race. If a team does not submit a list of additional equipment used at the “Rescue Work” distance on time (in writing), then the automatic ones are considered to start in the basic set.

At the “Rescue Works” distance, before the start is announced, it is prohibited to carry out any (except for untangling) manipulations with the ropes and part of the training ground involved in the distance. It is allowed to carry out any manipulations with the basic kit and additional equipment taken.

**Something else can be added here, but that’s later, for now I can’t imagine what else will be there**

This type of work is mainly associated with the use of industrial mountaineering technologies and is regulated by the rules for working at heights. It involves the use of rope access techniques and requires increased attention to the organization of safety, both individual and to the security system used at the facility.

The main element of the safety system is working and safety lines (ropes having the GOST R 1891 type, A standard or a certificate of type approval) secured to independent anchor points (GOST R EN795). The working line (rope) is used for lowering, ascent and positioning. The safety line is used for insurance using belay devices of several possible types, but complying with the GOST R EN 353–2 and GOST R EN 12841 standards. For work, several spaced working lines can be used, allowing for horizontal movements in the work area. In this case, it is necessary to use several safety lines to ensure that there are no dangerous pendulums in the area. emergency situation(for example, a broken working rope).

The harness (harness) must ensure a comfortable stay in an unsupported space for a long time and comply with GOST R EN 361. To work for a long time with a harness, work seats are used, which can be either separate element, and integrated into the harness.

Descenders are used for descent, fixation at the workplace and short ascents. Some only have the ability to rappel and position, but cannot perform the task of ascent.

To climb a working rope, you will need a hand clamp with a stirrup attached to it. This item of equipment does not require mandatory certification. When climbing to a small height, you can use a descent device. If you need to climb a rope often and a lot, use a chest clip integrated into the harness. A manual clamp with a pedal is always necessary, regardless of whether you plan to climb a rope or not (in case of emergency or unpredictable situations).

To organize the fastening of working and safety lines, anchor points and anchor slings are used using connecting elements (carabiners made of steel or aluminum alloys). Tying ropes to structural elements is prohibited.

To ensure safety in the presence of dangerous edges through which ropes pass or may pass, protectors and deflectors of various designs are used. The most popular type of protector is textile, which we recommend using with extreme caution.

Methodological material, designed as teaching aid for teaching rope access techniques in Training Center"Industrial alpinism".

Methodological material developed as a teaching aid for teaching rope access techniques in Training Center "Industrial Mountaineering". Author: Anton Yuryev ( Notes from a rescuer)

Important

  • It is necessary to constantly ensure that all carabiners are coupled and loaded along the main axis;
  • The descender installed on the rope must be locked whenever the free end of the rope is not held in the hand;
  • Keep hair and loose clothing away from the descender and other moving parts of the equipment;
  • Avoid the possibility of high dynamic loads (breakdown) on the hand and chest clamps;
  • It is necessary to constantly monitor the correct position of the belay device;
  • The belay device must not pass under your arm;
  • By attaching the safety device first and removing it last, the worker eliminates the possibility of forgetting about the insurance;

Individual equipment



The whiskers are made of dynamic rope (EN 892 single rope). A figure eight or conductor is tied into the abdominal tying point. At the ends there are barrel, figure eight or conductor knots. The long mustache should be such that the worker, hanging on it, can reach the carabiner with his hand. The length of the short mustache should be such that its carabiner almost reaches the chin.

Devices

The ASAP safety device is attached to the thoracic point, and the worker’s harness is connected to an Absorbica or Asap’sorber shock absorber. The ASAP shock absorber is attached with an OK Triact-Lock carabiner.

The descender is attached to the ventral point of the harness. The carabiner must be positioned in such a way that the latch is on the worker’s side during lowering. The latch axis should be on the side of the trigger device.

A hand clamp is attached to the long whisker.

The pedal is attached with a separate carabiner to the carabiner of the hand clamp. The pedal length is selected so that when the leg is fully extended, the hand clamp is directly above the chest.



Installing a rope into a descender (DS)




a) Storage, transportation
b) Lock
c) Descent
d) Anti-panic activation position (for ID)
e) Partner insurance

Rappelling

The descent is carried out by threading the rope through the SS. The speed of descent is regulated by the holding force of the free end of the rope. While descending, do not let go of the hand holding the free end of the rope. To start the descent, move the control handle to the descent position and smoothly press it.

The descent should be smooth, without jerks, maximum speed- 2 m/s.

When descending along a wall, rest against the wall with your knees slightly bent.

Stop

To stop, slowly release the handle. To free both hands, move the handle to the lock position. Do not release the free end of the rope until the device is locked.

Freeing yourself from being stuck on a belay device

Exceeding the permissible descent speed results in the activation of the belay device. In this case, the device will be fixed to the rope and will be loaded with the worker’s weight.

What to do when hanging on a belay device while descending

  1. Remove weight from the belay device: to do this, install a manual clamp on the working rope and stand on the pedals or climb up the rope on the descender;
  2. Unlock and lower the belay device;
  3. Continue actions interrupted by hanging on the belay device;

This method is used for lifting short distances. For longer distances, use clamp lifts.

  1. Unlock the control system if it is blocked;
  2. Stand on the pedals while simultaneously picking up the slack in the rope through the control system. Your own weight is lifted using your legs, not by pulling yourself up with your arms. The body is parallel to the rope;
  3. Transfer weight to the control unit;
  4. Repeat steps 2–4 until the goal is achieved;
For ease of lifting, it is possible to pass the rope coming out of the control system through a carabiner or roller attached to a hand clamp.


Attaching the Clips to the Rope




Lifting technique

  1. Raise the hand clamp on the rope as high as possible while simultaneously performing a yielding flexion with the foot inserted into the pedal. Keep your foot underneath you;
  2. Stand on the pedals and move the chest clamp to the hand clamp. Your own weight is lifted using your legs, not by pulling yourself up with your arms. The body is parallel to the rope. When lifting, the rope should slide through the chest clamp without the intervention of the worker. To do this, the shoulder straps of the harness must be well tightened, the rope must be located between the worker’s legs and not cling to the equipment attached to the harness. For the first few meters of the climb you may need to pull the rope through the chest clamp by hand;
  3. Shift your weight to the chest clamp;



  1. Install a manual clamp with a pedal on the rope;
  2. Open the chest clamp cam;
  3. Stand on the pedals with your leg fully straightened;
  4. Place the chest clamp on the rope above the control system, transfer your weight to the chest clamp;
  5. Remove the SU from the rope;



  1. Place the descender on the rope below the chest clamp, but as close as possible to it, and block it;
  2. Remove the chest clamp from the rope, transfer the weight to the descender;
  3. Remove the hand clamp from the rope;



  1. Lower the hand clamp to the chest;
  2. Stand up slightly on the pedals to unload the chest clamp, press its cam with your finger;
  3. Bend the leg inserted into the pedal at the knee and lower the chest clamp down the rope;
  4. Remove your finger from the cam of the chest clamp before the mustache attached to the hand clamp tightens, transfer the weight to the chest clamp;
  5. Repeat these actions until the goal is achieved;



Passing the guy line


Climb



  2. Pull yourself up by the quickdraw and unfasten the first quickdraw carabiner located above the devices. Holding onto the ropes extending down from the guy rope, smoothly move horizontally;

  4. Continue climbing;

Descent


Passing intermediate fastening

Descent


Climb

  1. Go up to PZ. Leave 1–2 cm from the hand clamp to the knot;






  8. Continue climbing;

Passing nodes

  1. Move the hand clamp above the knot;
  2. Rise a little more on the clamps so that the chest clamp is a few centimeters from the knot;
  3. Place the descender on the working rope below the chest clamp and block it;
  4. Stand up on the pedals, unfasten the chest clip and move it above the knot, transfer your weight to the chest clip;
  5. Remove the descender from the working rope;
  6. Continue climbing;

  1. Go down to the node. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the trigger;
  2. Move from the trigger to the clamps;
  3. Lower the clamps to the knot. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the chest clamp;
  4. Install the descender below the knot, remove the slack so that the knot rests against the device, and block it;
  5. Stand on the pedals, disconnect the chest clamp from the rope, and smoothly transfer your weight to the descender. The hand clamp should be positioned so that it does not hang on its mustache;
  6. Remove the hand clamp;
  7. Continue descent;

  1. Descend/ascend to a node;
  2. Create a second attachment point to the safety rope: tie an Austrian guide knot and insert a mustache into its loop or install and block the descender;
  3. Move the belay device through the knot;
  4. Remove the second attachment point created in step 2;
  5. Continue driving;

Transition from one pair of ropes to another


Important!
During horizontal movement, the worker must be attached to four ropes: two working and two safety ropes. This method of organizing insurance prevents a fall along the trajectory of the pendulum if one of the working ropes breaks, which could lead to an accident when colliding with surrounding objects or damage to a moving loaded rope.

Passing a long karem

Climb











Descent









  4. Stand on the pedals of the hand clamp and disconnect the chest clamp, smoothly transfer your weight to the release device. Disconnect the hand clamp and belay device from the ropes to the PZ.

  5. Continue descent;

Working on spaced ropes

The method of working on spaced ropes allows you to expand the available space. The worker uses two pairs of ropes: two working ones holding him in the required position, and two
safety nets This method of organizing insurance prevents a fall along the trajectory of the pendulum if one of the working ropes breaks, which could lead to an accident.
in case of collision with surrounding objects or damage to a moving loaded rope.

By issuing or retrieving the rope through the descenders, the worker can move horizontally and vertically. The use of descenders is similar to their use for
descent and ascent.


If there are kinks between the descent area and the points where the ropes are secured, when the worker moves horizontally, the loaded ropes will move along the kinks, which can
lead to their damage. Ropes should be prevented from moving by using guy ropes or intermediate anchor points.

Overcoming the tread

During the climb

  1. Climb to the tread
  2. Remove the protector
  3. Rise above the tread installation location
  4. Continue driving

During the descent

  1. Go down to the tread
  2. Pull the rope away from the friction point
  3. Remove the protector
  4. Go below the tread installation location
  5. Restore the location of the tread on the rope
  6. Continue driving

Moving along structures using a mustache with a shock absorber

The worker moves around structures by climbing. Insurance is carried out by sequentially rearranging the mustache, containing a shock absorber and attached to point A on the worker’s harness.


If it is necessary to free his hands to perform any actions, the worker, in addition to the yoke with a shock absorber, attaches to the structure with a yoke connected to the abdominal
tying point, and hangs on it.

To free your hands, you can also join the girth structure. The mustache that encircles the structure is connected to the side points of the harness or to the abdominal point. On the design
located above the attachment points to the harness, the depth of possible sliding of the mustache along the structure in the event of a fall is no more than 0.5 meters. The worker leans with his feet.

Important:

Moving along artificial support points in the horizontal direction


Moving along pillars using loops

Three loops are used for movement: one as a support for the leg, the second to support the worker’s weight, and the third for insurance. On surfaces with good friction, the hinges are attached to
on a pole using a semi-grasping knot, on slippery ones - using a Prussian knot.
The holding loop is attached to the abdominal point of the harness, the safety loop is attached to the thoracic point
A. The leg loop is not attached to the harness.

Climb

  1. Stand on a leg loop
  2. Raise the holding and safety loops higher up the pole
  3. Hang on the holding loop
  4. Raise the leg loop higher up the post
  5. Repeat these steps until the goal is achieved

Rescue of the victim when hanging on the descender



  2. It is necessary to give the victim as vertical a position as possible. To do this, the chest point of the harness of the victim is connected with a sliding carabiner to the rope above his descender (or a carabiner to the carabiner of his descender), after which, if necessary, the shoulder straps of the harness are tightened;


  4. Lower the clamps until the short mustache is tensioned. Release the chest clamp and transfer your weight to the short arm. Disconnect the hand clamp and your belay device;


  6. Carry out descent using the descender device of the victim;
Important!
The use of a victim's ropes for a rescue operation is permitted only if they and their attachment points have not been damaged. Unacceptable
use equipment subjected to high loads.

Rescue of a victim hanging on a chest clamp

  1. Climb to the victim on the clamps, using his safety rope as your working one, and his working one as your safety rope. You need to be on the same level as the victim: if necessary, raise his belay device higher along the rope, you can move the hand clamp above the victim’s belay device;
  2. Attach a long mustache to the abdominal point of the victim's harness, then move the belay device above his chest clamp;


  4. Pull the victim’s chest towards you and attach the chest point of his harness with a carabiner to the carabiner of your descender. If the length of one carabiner is not enough to perform this action, use a chain of two or three carabiners or a short anchor loop (no more than 30 cm, you can fold a longer loop several times);

  5. Disconnect the victim's whisker from his hand clamp. Disconnect the victim’s safety device from the rope;
  6. Attach the pedal to the chest point of the victim’s harness and pass it through the carabiner attached to the victim’s hand clamp. Adjust the pedal so that its length is maximum;

  7. Disconnect the victim's chest clamp. Take out as much slack as possible in the trigger device and block it;

  8. Bend the leg inserted into the pedal at the knee and transfer the weight to the trigger device. Disconnect the pedal from the victim, remove the hand clamp from the rope;
  9. Pass the rope coming out of the descender through an additional carabiner to increase friction. Carry out descent;

Important!
The use of a victim's ropes for a rescue operation is permitted only if they and their attachment points have not been damaged. It is unacceptable to use equipment that has been subjected to high loads.
The program was developed by rope access specialist Anton Yuryev for

Since May 6, 2015, the activities of companies providing industrial mountaineering (rope access) services have changed dramatically. New labor safety rules for working at height have come into force.

Rope access: origins of terminology

In the article devoted to, we dwelled on the issue of the origin of the new terminology. The source was legal acts regulating the activities of industrial climbers in Europe and the USA.

The free translation of foreign terms led to the appearance of the concept of “rope access” in the mentioned regulatory act.

New requirements for labor protection have completely removed the term “spinner work” from official circulation. IN colloquial speech steeplejack work had not been mentioned before.

The terms “work at height” and “spinner work” are combined by the normative act by absorbing the second concept into the first.

All workers performing work at height are divided into two categories:

  1. Workers permitted to work at heights. According to the meaning of the norm, this group includes “high-altitude workers” who use scaffolding, all kinds of lifts and towers, hanging cradles and other similar devices when carrying out work.
  2. Workers allowed to work at height without the use of inventory scaffolding and scaffolding, using rope access systems.

Note. The regulation mentions rope access in the context of the use of a special access system for high-rise work.

The term “rope access” is not identical to the term “industrial mountaineering”.

Industrial alpinism is an industry, a type of activity in the construction sector.

Rope access system- system personal protection about falls. And nothing more.

Our position on this issue is based on the terminology of GOST R EN 12841 -2012:

The Promalp-Center company is ready to perform any work at height using rope access systems. Specific proposals for performing certain types of high-altitude work are on home page site.

    Related Posts