Apparently, old Freud was right - many complexes of an adult develop in childhood. For example, cross-country skiing... What do you think snow-covered passers-by will answer to the question “Do you like cross-country skiing?”
About two percent will say that “Yes, they like it,” and that they run almost every day - let’s be happy for them, these are the rare lucky ones who will never give up their favorite activity.
The rest will be divided approximately in half, one half will say “Yes” and imagine how the last time, two years ago, they were leisurely stomping through a beautiful, beautiful forest, and it is this leisurely walking that in their understanding is running, or rather “walking” , skis.
The second half of those surveyed will say: “Brrr... no, they don’t like it...” and will remember with a shudder how the “sadyuga” physical teacher tortured him with this firewood, the sticks tried to tear off his hands, and the boots that rubbed calluses and the ever-dangling fastenings completed the torture of the young flesh.
So in the early stages of life, due to poor, unusable equipment and, as a consequence, the negative experience we receive, we lose the taste for, generally speaking, a very healthy and actually pleasant pastime.
Let's try to correct the situation, take a normal skiing and running set and try again to start all over again!
Today we'll talk about fastenings.
So, the fastenings...
It is they that allow you to accurately transmit forces and set the direction of ski sliding when moving with both the classic and the skate. Without high-quality fastening, the rest, even properly selected equipment, will not bring you joy, and in many cases can be simply dangerous. Imagine a car whose steering wheel has a very weak connection with the wheels.
Today in retail sales you can see three types of mounts.
Outdated NN 75 (Nordic Norm 75mm) have the only advantage - the minimum price. Popularly, this type of fastening is also called welt fastening. It should be noted that NN 75 does not fix the foot well relative to the ski. The toe of the boot is attached rigidly to the rods using a metal bracket, but the sole does not provide sufficient longitudinal and lateral rigidity. You can almost forget about the skating style. Classic - a little better. Only a little, since when moving forward the foot bends along with the sole. A comfortable boot last would help here, but such boots are no longer produced (cheap price group). The material of the boots also leaves much to be desired.
When moving on the slopes, it is difficult to control the skis due to the loose heel and soft sole.
To be fair, it should be noted that these are still better than the “grandfather” boots from 19XX that were N-sizes larger.
But before you finally decide, compare whether the simplest versions of the systems described below are much more expensive. After all, you are making a purchase for several years. The skis break, but the bindings remain.
The following two fastening standards belong to the new generation of devices; these are two different and, alas, incompatible systems - SNS, developed by Salomon, and NNN, developed by Roteffella.
Comparing these fastening systems and making a verdict in favor of one or the other is an extremely thankless and rather futile task. Both SNS and NNN are very high level. I will only note one thing: the athletes of the world skiing and biathlon elite use both systems.
Both systems are based on the use of flexor systems (dampers - rubber or spring), as well as guides.
The soles of the boots of the NNN and SNS systems allow good control of the skis, both during classic and skating strokes; the bindings themselves have special guides for additional stabilization.
Both systems have touring-grade bindings, often even with automatic fastening (you just need to insert the toe into the binding). Tourist mounts can be used for universal (combined) recreational use, i.e. quite suitable for beginners.
Combined use means the ability to use fastenings for both skating and classic.
The SNS standard system was developed historically before NNN. The most basic external difference The problem is that the mount has only one longitudinal guide.
The entire SNS family is divided into two types: SNS Profil and SNS Pilot.
SNS Profil can be intended for classic (Classic), combined (Combi) and skating (Skate) stroke. The differences between the types of SNS profil come down to the use of flexors of different hardness.
The SNS Pilot is designed for skating only. It has a second mounting axis and uses a spring instead of a rubber flexor.
When choosing between Pilot and Profil, it is important to understand that while boots with SNS Pilot soles can still be used with SNS Profil bindings, on the contrary, SNS Profil boots with SNS Pilot bindings cannot.
The SNS system is used by the following ski boot manufacturers: Salomon, Adidas, Fischer, Alfa, Hartjes.
NNN (New Nordic Norm) is a more recent development. It has two longitudinal guides to stabilize the sole of the boot. The fastenings of this system also have modifications for classic and skating movements, as well as for universal use. Similar to SNS, the purpose is determined by the stiffness of the flexors.
High-level skate bindings (R3 Skate and R4 Skate) have an additional flexor, but this can also be easily removed, turning the binding into a universal one.
Any NNN boot can be used with any NNN binding. The exception is the NNN backcountry option.
The NNN system is used by boot companies: Rossignol, Alpina, Atomic, Madshus, Karhu.
A year ago, in January 2005, the same consortium announced the release of another NIS (Nordic Integrated System) system, which allows you to install bindings on skis without using screws, only the skis must be with the NIS platform, i.e. with guides integrated into the surface. It’s a good deal, but I won’t recommend running out and buying such kits right away. Wait and see.
The current reality is that in cross-country skiing, unlike alpine skiing, boots are associated with one or another standard of binding. 
So, in the absence of obvious consumer differences between SNS and NNN, the main selection criterion is the shoe. I recommend that you first choose boots that are suitable for the last (comfortable), purpose (skating style), design, and then the boots will automatically determine the standard of bindings.
In any case, if you have any doubts, ask a consultant - a real specialist will help and explain in detail his point of view, why it is better to do this and not otherwise.
| Shakhov Sergey |
Installing ski bindings - every Soviet citizen had to master this art, because during the USSR there were no special workshops for this. And it never occurred to anyone, especially an experienced tourist, to seek paid help in this elementary matter. Moreover, before, as now, the kit included instructions for installing ski bindings.
Correct installation of ski bindings begins with reading it, which is usually done. We advise you to strictly follow step-by-step recommendations, where the specifics of installation are taken into account depending on their type.
But if you managed to lose the instructions, read our story with step by step photos, which describes in detail the installation of semi-rigid ski bindings.
Useful articles:
Semi-rigid ski binding: how to install correctly?
Step 1. Find the center of gravity of the ski by placing it on any object small size, for example, on a construction corner or a screwdriver handle. It should be balanced - the toe and heel should hang in the air. Draw a line on the ski above this place. This will be the center of gravity.
Step 2. Take the binding and place it on the ski so that its leading edge lies on the outlined line. Carefully, without moving the mount from its place, insert into it the boot in which you are going to go hiking (if you are going to go in shoe covers, then). Adjust so that the sole of the boot, its toe and heel are in the center of the ski. Only in this case you are guaranteed correct installation ski bindings.
Step 3. Carefully, holding the mount in this position, remove the boot. Immediately place marks with a pencil through the holes in the fasteners. Using these marks, drill small holes with a drill (drill 1.5-2 mm in diameter). Or make them with an awl.
Tighten the screws included in the kit with a screwdriver or screwdriver.
Step 4. Attach the cable and insert the boot into the mount. Unscrew the frog slider as much as possible so that it is at the very end of the bolt.
Insert the cable into the slider. Snap the frog and use your hand to pull it as far toward the tip of the ski as possible. Mark the location of the hole closest to the nose for installing the frog. The second will be closed by the frog, so first drill one hole (but not through, no more than 5 mm deep), screw a screw into it, then open the frog and screw the second screw in place of the second hole.
Today, as a rule, two competing fastening systems are used for cross-country skis of all categories - SNS(the developer is the company SALOMON) And NNN(developer - ROTTEFELLA), as well as their modifications.
Methods for installing bindings of various designs on skis can vary significantly, but when installing any type of binding, the requirements remain unchanged: ensure control of the ski and maneuverability, ensure the reliability of the connection between the ski boot and the ski, and maintain the strength of the ski in the place where the binding is installed.
It is also necessary to take into account that the performance properties of the ski depend on the position of the installed mount and on the quality and reliability of the installation of the mount on the ski.
Installing bindings on cross-country skis
Both of the above systems have a wide range of different binding models aimed at a wide variety of user groups - from Olympic-level ski racers to children, walkers and ski tourists.
Depending on the purpose of the fasteners, they differ in weight, strength, and rigidity of fixation of the boot. But for all types of fastenings the requirements remain unchanged - ensuring:
- the necessary reliability of fixing the boot and ski,
- maneuverability and ski control,
- maintaining the strength and reliability of the ski.
Almost all modern ski binding systems for cross-country and touring skis provide boot articulation and attachment via a shackle in the sole of the boot that is grabbed by the binding. For traditional types of bindings of all systems - both Salomon SNS and Rottefella NNN, the standard is to install the fastening in such a way that the axis of fastening of the boot bracket coincides with the axis of the center of gravity of the ski.
Ski manufacturers strive to ensure optimal ski properties specifically for the case of mounting the mount at the center of gravity. This ensures maximum strength of the ski, optimal “work” - the ratio of the rigidity and elasticity of the ski, the best balancing and controllability of the ski. Unfortunately, with the continuous production of skis, especially when using natural materials, it is almost impossible to achieve absolute ski identity. Therefore, a big step was the creation of the NIS system, which not only greatly simplifies the process of installing the binding on the ski, but also allows you to find the optimal position of the binding on the ski.
As a rule, modern skis in the area where the bindings are installed have a special platform that provides the necessary strength and reliability of fixing the binding on the ski. But inept actions when installing bindings can damage the internal structure of the ski, which will lead to a decrease in its strength and to unfortunate breakdowns.
To install the ski mount, it is advisable to use a special tool that ensures convenient and reliable operation.
To install the fasteners you will need:
- conductor or sample for marking holes on the ski;
- ruler,
- drill(diameter 3.6mm or 3.4mm),
- drill,
- pencil or marker for marking,
- glue,
- screwdriver
- a pair of skis and a pair of bindings.
Marking
Using a ruler, we find the center of gravity of the ski and mark it with a marker.
To mark holes, it is best to use a special “jig”, which allows you to accurately position the position of the drill. 
We install a conductor that corresponds to the type of fastening - Salomon SNS or Rottefella NNN, so that the marked center of gravity on the ski and the corresponding mark - SKI BALANCE on the conductor - coincide.
If there is no such conductor, then you can use a paper template. As a rule, fasteners are equipped with the following paper template.
If there is no paper template, then you can simply attach the mount to be installed to the ski in such a way that the marking of the center of gravity on the ski and the axis of fixation of the boot bracket coincide. The holes indicated on the template are marked with a pencil or by lightly pressing an awl through the mounting holes. But this marking method has very low accuracy, so we strongly do not recommend doing this. It is necessary to take into account that modern fastenings have shifting parts and the marking of holes for the screws that fix the platform must be done with the fastening closed and assembled, otherwise you will get a displacement of the holes by 1-2 cm.
When installing, be sure to use a template or jig that matches the type of fasteners. Please note - the picture clearly shows that for the system mounts Rottefella NNN all fastening holes are drilled ahead of the axis of the center of gravity, and on the system fastenings Salomon SNS- the axis of the center of gravity passes under the mount.
Drilling holes
To drill holes, it is advisable to use a drill with variable speed control and special drills that provide the required diameter and depth of the hole.
When using specialized equipment:
the special drill has an extension that will ensure centering of the drill in the hole of the jig and stopping the drill at the required depth. Drilling is done with light pressure at medium speed.
When drilling with standard drills, a drill bit is used to install Rottefella fasteners 3.4mm, for installing Salomon fasteners drill 3.6mm. Drilling depth - 10mm.
Installing the mount
Before installing the fasteners, the holes must be filled with glue to install the fasteners; the glue fills the cracks left after screwing in the screw and provides waterproofing and additional strength. If the hole is not waterproofed, then when using skis, water will penetrate into the cavity of the ski and lead to rotting internal structures skis and breakdowns, this is especially typical for skis with a honeycomb structure and made using natural materials.
IN service centers special branded adhesives from Salomon and Rottefella are used. It is possible to use PVA glue; it provides the necessary tightness and additional strength.
The use of epoxy resins is highly undesirable, because... Resin solvents can damage ski components, especially skis with foam cores.
The mount is screwed onto the ski with full fixation; backlash is completely unacceptable.
After installation, you need to let the glue dry for 10-12 hours.
Installing bindings on a ski with a pre-installed NIS platform
The use of Rottefella NIS system bindings greatly simplifies the process of installing the bindings, and also allows you to adjust the position of the binding on the ski relative to the center of gravity.
To use NIS bindings you need special skis with an appropriate platform. Today skis are produced by Madshus and Rossignol.
To install the mount on the ski, the mount is inserted along the guides until it “clicks.”
A thrust bearing is also installed along the guides. The thrust bearing is fixed in the desired position using a special key, which is included with each pair of fasteners.
For cheaper mount models, installation of the thrust bearing does not require special tools.
The NIS system allows you to find the optimal mounting position on the ski for each pair of skis, taking into account the current condition of the slopes and weather conditions. Adjustment of the position of the mount can be done before each workout or even during training. The adjustment is carried out with the same special key - the mount is shifted by a specified number of “clicks” and fixed in the new position.
The speed and ease of installation of fasteners in this way increases new level. In addition, you can change the bindings without any damage to the skis.
Sports Line stores employ specialists who, using special equipment, will help you quickly and efficiently install fastenings. When purchasing skis and bindings in our stores, installation of bindings is free.
Skis today are produced for a variety of purposes - for beginners and experienced athletes, for running or mountains.
Accordingly, models differ in the materials from which they are made, length and width, and necessarily in the types of fastenings.
Since the choice of ski boots depends on the chosen bindings, and sometimes even special design solutions are required in the design of the skis themselves, the issue with them should be resolved first.
Retro style mounts
Considered obsolete but still in use, fastenings known as NN-75. These are the devices that parents of today's athletes are accustomed to calling hard.
They consist of a plate with pins and a clamping bracket. Boots for such fastenings must have appropriate holes in the sole.
Such mounts are very cheap, but are gradually being replaced by other designs.
It is claimed that they do not allow the use of skating (although Soviet non-professional skiers somehow managed to do this). But the fact is that this system leaves the heel unfixed.
Modern fashion - SNS and NNN
The most common types of cross-country ski bindings today are called SNS And NNN. Each of them requires a special type of shoe, and there is no compatibility between them (although it is possible within the same group of bindings).
Both of these systems are distinguished by the presence of unique guides instead of pins (in the first case - one, in the second - two), which securely fix the foot using similar grooves in the sole of the shoes.
Both types of fastening are distinguished by rigidity. It is determined by the indicators of the rubber bands into which the shoe rests when pushing. They can be distinguished by color or numerical markings. Fastenings SNS for skating they are sometimes produced with special springs instead of rubber bands.
System NNN It is distinguished by the location of the fixing spring closer to the foot (almost under the toes), which also facilitates movement with a “skate”.
Both of these types include varieties that fasten automatically and require manual operation. Experienced athletes usually choose SNS with manual fastening (they are more reliable), and beginners - NNN with automatic equipment (they are cheaper). These types of bindings fit any shoe size.
NIS technical innovation
Another type of ski binding for cross-country skiing appeared in 2005. Its symbol is NIS. The difference here is not in the principle of fixing the boot, but in the approach to the idea of installing the bindings themselves on the skis.
They can be attached without screws, very quickly, and can also be moved along the ski. There is only one problem - only skis that have the appropriate platform already installed at the factory are suitable for this.
In this case, you do not need special shoes - boots with standard soles will do.
If an athlete intends to take only the first steps on skis, it is better for him to purchase the first equipment in accordance with the recommendations of a professional consultant.
And you don’t need to strive to immediately buy all the most expensive ones - such equipment is intended for professionals, and completely different models and designs are suitable for beginners.
Video on fastenings
Naturally, skis are one of the most important components of a skier’s equipment, but not everything. You will need bindings and special boots. And their diversity will confuse any beginner in skiing. And in order to decide on the choice of this ski equipment, before going to the store it will be useful to familiarize yourself with what you should look for when purchasing.
Choosing boots
First of all, you should choose the most comfortable boots for yourself, and then look at the appropriate ski bindings. Therefore, we will begin the description with ski boots.Cross-country ski boots, like skis, are divided into three types according to the intended skiing style and four according to the target audience.
Depending on your cross-country skiing style, you will need the following boots:
- for the skating style you need a high boot with a rigid cuff to secure the leg. The load on the leg with this style is higher, therefore the presence of a cuff is mandatory - without it, the skier can damage the leg;
- a low boot with a soft sole is suitable for a traditional style;
- There are also universal boots, they come with or without a removable hard cuff, with a moderately hard sole.
- boots for professionals. These boots are subject to the heaviest load, and therefore, during their production, much attention is paid to reliability and quality. Used on professional cross-country ski boots Newest technologies, so you rarely see leather elements in them - there are synthetic materials that are superior to leather in many respects. Boots for professionals are expensive, but they will last quite a long time;
- boots for sports tourism. These boots also have serious requirements. They are mainly purchased by tourists with extensive experience, as well as climbers. Boots for sports tourism make them comfortable for walking, without skis, if necessary. They are most often made in combination, with a replaceable cuff; the material is genuine leather with synthetic inserts. They must be reliable and durable, shock-resistant;
- boots for recreational skiing. There are no high demands placed on such boots, so there are both expensive and cheaper ones: depending on the materials from which the boots are made;
- boots for children. Children's boots should be comfortable, durable and warm. In addition, they should be both easy to put on and easy to take off.
Cross-country ski boots primarily use laces. If you loosen the laces on a shoe so that it can be put on freely, the laces should not fall out through the uppermost lacing hole, i.e. be long enough. A properly laced boot, on the one hand, securely fixes the foot, and on the other hand, does not squeeze it. It happens that there is additional linden at the top of the boot - it protects against snow getting into the boot and serves as an additional fixation. Under no circumstances should you purchase ski boots without trying them on, and be sure to wear socks when trying them on. This can be either specialized socks for classes skiing, or wool - neither thin nor thick. The ski boot should not press under any circumstances. On the other hand, boots that are too loose will make it difficult to control your skis.
So, when trying on a boot, you need to walk in it, stand, lift your heel off the floor - inside the boot, the heel should fit snugly to the sole and not come off it. MirSovetov also recommends paying attention to the fact that the fold that forms when lifting the heel in the area of the instep of the foot should not put pressure on the toes. If the boots do not meet these criteria, this means that they are not suitable for you.
In addition, if you are choosing boots for skating, the cuff should hold the leg well, but not squeeze or interfere with its movement. In general, as for the stiffness of the boot, for the skating style it is the largest, for the classic style it is the smallest, and for the combi style it is average.
The structure of ski boots is fundamentally different from the structure of cross-country ski boots. Ski boots consist of two elements - an outer boot and an inner boot.
The outer boot is responsible for the impulse transmitted by the skier during movement - the stiffer the boot, the better the skis handle.
Different companies designate the stiffness of ski boots differently. Some companies characterize them simply: “soft”, “hard”. Others, namely Nordica and Salomon, have introduced absolute value stiffness – kilogram of force per degree of deflection (meaning forward bending). For beginners, MirSovetov recommends boots with a stiffness in the range of 15-60 kgf/deg. For those who have already mastered skiing and have basic skiing skills, this bar rises to 40-80 kgf/degree. Further, when you are already quite confident on your skis, you should take a closer look at ski boots with a hardness of 60-90 kgf/deg. And the hardness of 115 kgf/deg and more is designed for those who engage in skiing professionally; they are not worth taking into consideration for now.
In general, the stiffness of the outer boot can be adjusted - but if the skier is standing on skis for the first time, this, of course, will not help him. The stiffness adjustment is designed for advanced skiers. Depending on the slope or effort applied, it may be slightly modified.
On the front part of the boot there are metal or plastic clips, equipped with length adjustment for a clearer and more comfortable fixation of the leg. The number of clips can be from 1 to 4 per shoe.
In addition to clips, boots can be equipped with screws designed for different purposes. For example, with a folding heel, such a screw is built into a large clip; when it is tightened, the tape securing the leg is tightened inside the boot.
Ski boots may also have a power belt that secures the cuff (shaft) along its upper part.
The cuff itself can be adjusted forward and backward, which serves to more accurately fit the boot to the skier's stance. Additionally, ski boots may have another functionality called canting. This option allows you to change the angle of the boot cuff left/right, adjusting it to the skeletal structure of the legs of a particular person.
At the back of the boot there is an element responsible for improving the transfer of force to the ski.
When walking off-slope it is convenient to top part the boot was loose. For this purpose, there is a “walking-skating” switch, which just frees the leg enclosed in the boot from being constrained. 
Another existing difference in ski boots - the principle of entry. In boots with a front entry, the cuff opens at the front, which allows the boot to better fit the foot. Most often, this principle is used for sports and expert models; in such boots, the cuff does not have an adjustment for tilting back. Center-entry boots feature a partially fold-down back of the boot, making it easier to put on and take off. Finally, rear entry boots, which are the most comfortable for beginners, have a flip-up heel, making them fairly easy to put on.
The inner boot in ski boots is made of soft materials. It both eliminates the need to wear a sock under the boot and allows for a more precise fit.
The materials for inner boots differ in their properties. For models intended for beginners, the boot is made in such a way that it takes on the exact shape of the foot within the first minutes. In expert models, this takes time - the inner boot is made of a tougher, more unyielding material. On the one hand, it provides better contact with the ski (as well as the rigidity of the outer boot), but on the other hand, skiers without the proper level of training will find it uncomfortable in such boots. It will be possible to switch to them over time.
Choosing boots for mountain skiing is more difficult. Regarding the size, there is one elementary rule that should be followed: if the foot is wide, it is better to take half a size larger, because under load it will definitely become even wider. For the same reason, you must try on shoes while standing.
Try it on with a thin elastic sock. It should be perfectly even and smooth, without any folds, and end above the end of the cuff. 
You need to understand that it is useless to rely on a manufacturer when choosing - each of them produces boots with their own characteristics - with a wider or narrower toe or heel, with different insteps, and so on. The price for a ski boot is also not the most accurate indicator. The most expensive boots are expert ones and will be very difficult for a beginner. It is extremely important to choose comfortable boots - if there is even a little pressure when trying them on, you should not take them - on the slope this discomfort will intensify many times over, which can cause a spoiled holiday (at best).
When trying on a boot, you need to fasten all the clips. You should start fastening the boot with the second clip from the toe, the one that tightens the arch of the foot, thereby fixing the heel. After this, you should listen to the sensations - are your toes resting on the toe, is it possible to move them a little; The heel should not dangle or come off the insole when tilted. You need to move your leg back and forth, from side to side.
Now you can try to tighten the clips as much as possible. There is a pitfall here: do not forget that the inner boot has not yet collapsed, and that later you will need to tighten the clips more. And if, when trying them on, they are already tightened as much as possible, then later, when it is really needed, the clips cannot be tightened.
If it seems that the shoe is still too small, MirSovetov recommends putting half a size larger on the other foot and again listening to the sensations of which foot is more comfortable. When trying it on, you need to sit down - if it throws you back, it means the boot is too stiff. It’s better to spend 15-20 minutes in your boots, stand, and walk a little. Having bought boots, you don’t have to put them away before skiing - you can wear them at home, preparing your feet for the slopes...
As for companies producing ski boots, there are many of them. Rossignol, Salomon, Fischer, etc. have proven themselves well.
It is useful to know that, along with typical target groups, manufacturers distinguish ski boots for carving and women's models. 
There is no need for carving boots for beginners; they are designed for athletes who have been skiing for a long time and have a strong footing. The differences between these models are as follows:
- on the one hand, increased rigidity of the outer boot in the lateral direction and, conversely, weakening of the resistance of the cuff when tilted back and forth;
- Along with the usual “walking-skating” switch, there is a third one (“soft”, “carve”), which is responsible for the soft resistance of the boot when bending forward or backward.
- this model almost always uses a “platform” that lifts the skier’s foot higher above the surface of the ski.
Selection of mounts
There are three types of cross-country ski bindings: - front (Nordic 75);
- with a “gutter” (SNS system);
- with “rails” (NNN system).
Let's look at each of the fastenings in more detail.
Front mounts, Nordic 75. As mentioned above, this type is outdated and is almost never used anymore.
The NNN system has two lugs for mounting, “rails”. This type of binding is preferable for amateurs, since, unlike SNS, the front bracket of the boot is moved back, which allows for better control of the skis. There are rubber stops on the front of the NNN mounts. You can easily determine their hardness by their color. Determining the stiffness is important in order to understand which bindings are best for you based on your preferred riding style. For a skating stroke, greater rigidity is required, for a classic one, correspondingly less. The color options for bindings indicating rigidity are as follows: white for the hardest style, green for softer riding, black for standard rubber bands and red for soft ones. Thus, white and green are suitable for skating style, and black and red are suitable for classic style.
Rottefella specializes in such fastenings, and also produces them for other companies. Thus, boots from Alfa, Artex, Alpina, and new items from Rossignol are also suitable for NNN bindings.
The SNS system differs from the above-mentioned one in that the boot bracket is fixed directly to the toe. As for the color of the rubber stops, they are also different. There are three types, but the rubber bands also have a number stamped on them that corresponds to the hardness. There are yellow ones (with the number 85) - for classics, red (115) - for skates, and universal ones (95) - pink-lilac. It has one protrusion for fastening the “groove”. SNS bindings and boots for them are produced by Salomon. MirSovetov would like to draw your attention to the fact that the new models of SNS bindings and boots are different from the old ones, and therefore, when purchasing, you should consult about the compatibility of both.
The following boot brands are suitable for SNS bindings: Salomon, old models Rossignol, Adidas, Karhu, Fisher.
SNS and NNN fastenings suitable for all shoe sizes. Exceptions are for children and youth; special fasteners are produced for them, which are distinguished by a large latch handle and a softer fastening mechanism.
By the way, there are two types of fastenings: - automatic;
- mechanical.
As for installing fasteners, MirSovetov recommends doing this in a specialized place (a service center or a store). The danger is that you can incorrectly determine the center of gravity, accidentally drill through the ski, or make the holes for fasteners too large.
Skiing
IN alpine skiing The safety of a skier largely depends on the bindings. Everything is done so that when moving, they securely fix the boot, preventing it from moving, but at the same time, in the event of a risk of falling or injury, they immediately unfasten.
Modern bindings for ski boots are made of heavy-duty materials - titanium, steel or high-strength plastic. The main fastening elements are: the fastening head, the fastening heel, the platform and the ski stop.
Mounting head. This is the front part of the fastening, which is responsible for releasing the toe of the boot when the skier falls - sideways and backwards. Its most important characteristic is elasticity. This is the ability of the head to not open during short impulse impacts, but to return the “left” shoe to its original position. Vertical elasticity can be up to 20 mm, lateral - up to 45 mm. In addition, some models have a TwinCam system, which allows the boot to move sideways by half the sole. If the displacement continues, the head unfastens; if not, it returns the shoe to its place.
Fastening heel. Performs the same functions as the head, only it frees the heel of the boot if necessary. It also has an indicator of vertical elasticity (up to 25 mm).
According to the method of fastening, they are divided into:
- manually fastened;
- semi-automatic - they are set manually and then snap into place when pressed with your foot;
- automatic - the fasteners snap into place when pressed;
Platform. The part of a ski binding that connects the head and tail. Its main function is to ensure better contact between the binding and the ski, to soften micro-impacts (for example, on an uneven track) and dampen vibration. In addition, a higher position of the boot relative to the sliding surface and edge provides a number of advantages: it allows not to interfere with the flexibility of the ski, contributes to a more convenient distribution of efforts spent on movement, etc. Skistop is a system responsible for braking a ski when it falls. Roughly speaking, the bars of metal that slide down the sides of the ski when the boot is released from the binding. Therefore, for skistop to be effective, i.e. was able to slow down the ski when unfastening it after a fall, MirSovetov advises selecting ski stops in such a way that the width is greater than the width of the ski.
It is very important to initially choose the most suitable skis, bindings and boots for them. Because any discomfort while skiing will discourage further skiing. But at the same time, it is very difficult not to make a single mistake when choosing for the first time. The final understanding of what you really need will come only with time, with riding experience. Therefore, if possible, before purchasing your first equipment, try out several different skis, boots, and bindings (for example, renting or borrowing from friends). Then you will be prepared for the purchase not only theoretically.
In the next article, in order to finally prepare you, we will tell you