We look so impressive that everyone mistakes us for geologists. They ask what they came to look for? “Of course, gold!” I don’t know if they understood that gold is the rapids and difficulties that we will overcome, the Transbaikal sky and taiga, mountain rivers, passes that we will climb, the gold of human souls. I would rather go to this country of sparkling and searching. It’s okay that we’ll have to wear out three iron shoes before we reach our goal. The main thing is to get there and find gold.
(from the night thoughts of the duty officer 06/12/63)

Vitim, one of the wildest and most unique rivers in Eastern Siberia. Vitim is born on the eastern slopes of the Ikat ridge, formed at the confluence of the Vitimkan with the China River, flowing from the slopes of the Tsipikan massif. Vitim on the way to the Lena, skirting the Vitim Plateau and crosswise crossing the ridges of the Stanovoi Highlands, sharply changes the direction of the flow several times: north-eastern - in the very upper reaches, southern - after the confluence of the Chyna, eastern - after the confluence with the Zaza River; Below the confluence of the Karenga, the river flows north.

Diary of a trip along the Vitim River, June 1963.
(Club "Yantar", Tomsk region)
From Tomsk on June 9, 1963, a group led by Ozerkovsky set out on a hike. There are 6 of us. Boris Ozerkovsky is a leader and part-time chronicler. Ivanova Luda - Nightingale, sister of mercy, does not give exemption from backpacks, commentator of diary entries. Viktor Tsukanov is a hunter and a major specialist in small fish. Prusakov Valka - supply manager. Ivanov Yuri is a major specialist in rafting. Biryukova Larisa is an irreplaceable person, a major specialist in bread and part-time chronicler. And Oleg Bulyubash, who was seeing us off, gave us a souvenir, which they called Olezhka.
Route:
The water part from June 13 to June 30 - rafting along the Vitim River from Romanovka to Ust-Karenga, 410 km on flatboats, 14 large rifts were covered in low water. The walking part is from Ust-Karenga to Ksenyevka, more than 300 km through three passes, crossing the rivers Karenga, Nercha, Olekma, Nerchugan, Jalir, Black Uryum with an approach to Mount Kropotkin 1908 m. All along the way from the housing there is only the abandoned Syrygichi mine. The route ended on July 19, 1963 at the Ksenyevka station of the Trans-Siberian Railway.

the 9th of June.
Preparations for the trip are over. It seems that everything is accounted for and the equipment is all there for this big trip. Having bought tickets to Chita, we left Tomsk at 18.30.
The train is comfortable, the carriage and our six + Olezhka. Backpacks travel like human beings in empty seats! Taiga was greeted without much enthusiasm. Everyone probably has “pleasant” memories associated with this station. Then there is the usual bustle of the station, dreary waiting. Suddenly, at 2 o'clock in the morning, an additional train 126 arrives, and we begin to place our bones no lower than the 3rd shelf (we could not stoop to ordinary people who do not have a sense of height). The height is mastered and taken quite quickly.
Morning is approaching. It would be possible to begin the descent.

June 10th.
Surprisingly, Borka woke up first. His first reconnaissance about the restaurant informed. That it is available 2 carriages away from us. It is not in the spirit of the boss to remain in a state of hunger for a long time, so a general rise is announced. At 11 am we were in Krasnoyarsk.
Signal. The whistle blows and again the train rushes us to the East. To make things even more important, the bosses (the big ones and the slightly smaller ones, Borya and Valya) recalculate the parameters, calories, and money for the tenth time. This day brought us a precious discovery: it turns out that among us there is a talented master who repairs hiking shoes. You should have seen how Valka’s holey shoe was transformed in her hands! Miracle, Miracle, Miracle!

June 11.
On the second day we completely seized control of the compartment. The heat is unbearable. We are looking forward to meeting Baikal. At the sight of our cute faces, Baikalishche burst into smiles. Shines with joy and sparkles under the rays of the sun! We, too! Everywhere we recognize familiar pictures: Slyudyanka, Murino, etc. to Ulan-Ude. It took one day to absorb and implement the brilliant idea: systematically measuring bellies every 10 days. The first measurement gave the results: Lyudka - 5 holes, Valka and Lariska - seven holes, Borka and Yurka - 9 holes, Tsukanchik the most holey - 10 holes. Pan Bulyubash (Olezhka) refused to take measurements due to lack of belly. The train Kyiv - Khabarovsk, something about our soloists Lyuda and Vitya was drawn to sad Khokhlatsky songs. Well, they do it wonderfully! Evening, in the blue haze of the mountains! I want to go to Chita as soon as possible and further, further...

12 June.
Our railway torment and entertainment seems to be coming to an end. Chita and her descendants met us without a brass band or guard of honor. The city of Chita turned out to be beautiful. And he gave the world such tourists from whom we were able to take detailed maps of the route, hear from them several stories and legends about the glorious Vitim. They promised us that there would be plenty of thrills. We received a lot of valuable information. We spend the night at the station.

July 13.
And yet, 13 is a damn dozen, and try to convince us of this. We have strong, undeniable evidence. We got up with stiff joints at 5 am, with the goal of leaving on the first bus. But for the 13th all tickets were sold out earlier, apparently, this number is especially revered among the Chita residents. And then continuous waste begins. Well, where has this been seen? So that Tomsk tramps on a ZIM, yes, yes on a ZIM, travel 160 km and pay for 320 km. Valka’s head probably gained 32 gray hairs for those 32 rubles that he gave with a trembling hand to the extortionist driver, or rather to the Soviet taxi company. Everyone really wanted to see Vitim as soon as possible. What kind of person is he?!
We did not see any grandiose, majestic picture near Romanovka. And I can’t even believe that it is fraught with so many dangers and treachery, unless there is something threatening in its reddish-purple water. In general, there is a nice peaceful river in this area. But for some reason, by June 13, it had become completely shallow, which almost deprives us of the opportunity to raft, and there is no dead wood in the area.
In Romanovka we learned details about our Vitim. Borya. Valya and Lyuda meticulously wrote down these details throughout the day under the fence. Then we went to choose a parking spot. We chose 1.5 km, where we trudged for an hour, stopping every 300-400m. Then everything is as usual: a fire, a tent, dinner, Vityulya fishing, and only an unusually beautiful sunset! (As I write, mosquitoes even land on my notebook)

At the pier in Romanovka. (two Ivanovs and a tired Larisa)

June 14.
The main thing for us at this stage is to get a boat, that is, unfortunately, to buy it. The boss and Valya went to complete the act of purchase and sale, but then they had to call Vitya and Yura for help. So in Romanovka the people are very nice, but when it comes to boat prices they are unbendingly persistent at a high level.
It took two days to rewrite the directions for the Vitim River.

June 16.
Packing and preparing for departure takes half a day. The crews of the schooners are complete. “Oh, I’ll give it a ride” - Victor, Lyudmila and Yuri. The flagship, controversy has flared up regarding its name. There were such sentences as “If I accelerate, I’ll fall apart!”, “We’ll drown in an hour!”, “Maybe,” “Volnitsa,” etc. We did not reach a consensus. They went without a name, but under the flag consisting of: flotilla commander Pan Ozerkovsky, flagship captain V. Prusakov, adjutant, errand sailor - Larisa, cabin boy just in case - Olezhka.
A farewell salvo sounded, Vika, a girl from Romanovka, seeing us off, cautiously moved away from the scary guy in glasses. "Goodbye. Vika!"
So, we are on our blue road! We go until 20:00, we pass mostly GOOD type riffles, we look around, but the banks are still quite boring.
From the leader's diary. In the morning we sent a telegram to Yalin I. in Tomsk, informing us of the departure time. We left at 16:00 local time. The weather turned bad. We are sailing directly according to the geological description of the river. Vitim, which we wrote off in Romanovka. Not difficult yet. The second boat is leaking a lot, ours too, but not much. We stop on the shore 5 meters high. The location turned out to be bad. There is water under the moss and the tent is wet. The backpacks were left on the shore, covered with plastic. The second boat was filled with water.

June 17.
After a wet but soft overnight (it turns out we slept on a soft swamp), everyone wanted to see the sun. But someone probably needs it more than we do, and it shines on them.
A rich breakfast disturbs the soul and stomach of the management, especially the caretaker, since the most complex calculations for food consumption do not justify themselves. There is silence all around, only the hazel grouse are chattering.
Today we have to approach the first rift, so we are preparing more carefully for the exit. Vityulya prepared the poles, Yurka and Valka took care of the cameras. Borka and I are still in the role of chroniclers, Luda is on her honorary watch, pumping out the water with “Eh, I’ll pump it!”
It seems everything is ready! Everything that can be tied is tied! We set sail. All day waiting for the first shift, which should be at 25 km. Before lunch you come across all the riffles, which present no difficulties at all. The sun is already shining for us. The shores are beautiful! Often you come across “rock outcrops”. “Oh, I’ll give it a ride!” rolls along the flagship waves, the silence is broken only by the remarks: “Hey, there, at the trough, report on the state of affairs,” “Hey there, on the cart,” “The water pump is working” (about Vitya and Lyuda), “Troughs with a blunt nose!” "
Until lunchtime we were still unable to see the first shiver. Well, where are you? At about 19 o'clock we heard a decent rumble and noise. Let's go on reconnaissance. We checked the map. All signs of a 45 km rift! This means that all the previous names of shivers in the pilot are completely in vain; these are not shivers, but only SHIVERYAT. And we, too, are good; we couldn’t find our way around correctly all day, having a detailed geological description of the river’s route.

From the leader's diary. We looked for the first shivera for a long time, but it seemed to us that it was too weak. And that was until something turned white and rustled ahead. We managed to land. The speed was already high. We looked around. This is a rift at the 45th km with a length of 1,230 km. It consists of four steps separated by 200m reaches. Lots of stones, passages from 7 to 40m. The first drop was in the middle of the river, near the right bank there were stones. After the first decline, a second decline begins 100m later, after which there is calm and then it circles. Our boat, after we passed, entered the current, and we did not circle, unlike the second boat. We quickly approached the third decline, there were stones. We walked close, leaving the stones on the left. Quiet again, the boats stopped. The shivers also ended in a narrow corridor about seven meters, with a stone on the left side and on the right side of the bow in the river bed. They kept it in the middle. After the shiver, having walked 400 meters, we stopped for the night in a clearing. The shore is low. There are larches everywhere.
Time 20 o'clock. Next is an English dinner, that is, after dinner you should feel a pleasant feeling of hunger. Ivashka lit the fire almost to the sky, but thunder struck! Such a thunderstorm broke out over Vitim that it was as if all the forces of hell fell upon him, wanting to take revenge for something.
We reluctantly had to crawl into the tent, for some reason it was wet there. We didn’t sing songs, we listened to the sound of rain.

June 18.
For some reason there was no fish soup again in the morning. There is an acute lack of phosphorus. Vityulya accepted the request for fish. In the meantime, we were content with the small amount of semolina that Yura cooked well for breakfast. Let's dry ourselves. Borya studies the route. Finally the command: “Give it up!” We passed the Bugarichta river, the next one is not indicated on the map. Valya is given the right to name her. Now her name is "Shiverenok". There are a lot of streams from rocky banks. One reminds Ivashkin’s face after semolina, so they called it “Ivashkin Stream”.
We stopped for lunch on the right high bank, a good place. Before this, we walked a 63 km rift. And in general, according to Vitim, on a raft, I think, is not very interesting. On one side there are stones on the rifts, because now there is low water and there will be low speed on the reaches. While we're cooking lunch. We examined the rift that we need to cross; it is a kilometer from our parking lot. The guys went to look at the cliff. He is tall and handsome. There is now a roar coming from there - they are throwing stones from above. Very good echo. The forest is mostly larch. Not a single pine tree. You can't make a raft here. It seems that we have now passed the easiest part of the route. After lunch we skipped through the rift. And before the next one we looked around. The “Gate” shiver is the first complex shiver, and we immediately realized it, the flowers had run out. After looking around, we decided to drag the boats through. The “Gate” Shiver begins with an ordinary roll, there is nothing complicated, then the channel narrows very sharply to 7-10 m and this entire flow is directed into the rock on the right. There is a stone under the rock itself, along the main channel on the left there is also a stone. The main flow between these two stones, and of course, everything is seething and boiling. The shaft is big and that's why we didn't dare.
The flagship was shamefully dragged along a rope! Imagine a flagship on a string! “Oh, I’ll give it a ride!” - our brave men Vitya and Valya still had a ride. “To the madness of the brave – this is the wisdom of life!”
Then a series of shivers begins with interesting name, somehow South American, not Siberian - Mariktikan shivers. The first of them is 1300 meters long. On the flagship, the previously low-power, intermittently operating engine (Larisa) was replaced with a motor (Borya). Deftly maneuvering and avoiding all the underwater pebbles that the treacherous Vitim slipped to the daredevils, we passed the rive without loss. Before the second shift, only 225 meters went for reconnaissance. The flow here forms rapids, maidans and whirlpools. We missed it! Ahead is the Lower Mariktinskaya Shiver, 500m long. It's quite difficult to get through. Closer to the left bank there are traces of a man’s fight with Vitim – a duralumin boat. Our men's eyes and teeth lit up. They are already making plans to transform and deliver it to Tomsk or exchange it for something grand. They also decided that for the gluttonous Vitim, one boat in this place was enough, so they decided to drag their ships tomorrow using the barge hauler method.
We stopped for the night a little higher than the shivera next to the hut. There is a path near it. Tomorrow will be a difficult day, but we are militant.

June 19.
It's a good morning. We got up early. Since we need to navigate the boats through the lower Mariktina rift, there are only stones there. The boats walked along the right bank and left them in front of the next rift on the right bank. We made an attempt to get a duralumin boat, but it is impossible to get to it in 1-2 hours, and we don’t have any more time.
And again on our water road, it cannot be called blue, since the water in Vitim, even on sunny days, is somehow dark reddish. And on this day the sun is stingy, it shines, but very little. During lunch it rains.
And there are more shivers, shivers, shivers ahead! We pass Podboronok, Dolgaya, Kurluktinsky Poboronok. The flagship is in the lead. To “Oh, I’ll give it a ride!” - they sat down and barely crawled down. The command staff is dissatisfied, worse than a cloud. Lyuda is an optimist and claims that the shiverka was just joking. We pass the Kurlukta Shivera and others, generally adhering to following rules: “Catch the stream! Stone on the left and stone on the right - go straight! Mainly stick to the breakers! Don't poke your nose in front! Don't hold on to the keel! Keep your nose up and your tail in a roll!”
We went through a rather difficult shift, and the flagship sometimes looked like this - Borya and Valya on board, and in front, hugging his native nose, a sailor running errands. The main channel is near the right bank, and rests on one side against the bank, on the other, against a stone located 7-9 meters from the shore. The shaft here is large, about 50 cm near the waterfall, and from this place the shaft turns to the left bank, where there are many stones. The speed is very high and it is quite difficult to row out. After this shift, we choose a place to spend the night. There is beauty all around! Yurka managed to fly to the cliff after dinner. We fell down to sleep on the featherbed, some on what, some on millet, some on buckwheat, some on the main rope. The night was cold, but the mosquitoes did not particularly torment our skin.


June 20.
So, today is a special day - our oldest hunter Boris is on duty (he has already seen 8 ducks in 4 days) and a major specialist in shivers. Therefore, in the morning, everyone is waiting for the duck or “Goose neck” (the name of the shiver). Obviously, there will still be only the second. Wonderful morning! We climbed down the cliff. Yes, breakfast was clearly without duck, although Borya got up at 6 o'clock from excitement about the outcome of breakfast. But he made the greatest discovery in the tourist cooking of lazy people - if you don’t want to stir the porridge, move it to the end of the crossbar, it will cook, it will come.
Finally, the commander of the flotilla climbed onto the beautiful flagship, sparkling with cleanliness and order, and the flotilla set off. “Did you take the ax?” "Have taken!". We passed many shivers, meeting them without much excitement and even phlegmatically, the technique of passing them was classically worked out! But just to “Oh, I’ll give it a ride!” eternal incidents.
All hunters are the same! In all cases of life, people are fed ducks! “Where is the goose neck shivera?” - we interrogate Borka. Everything will become clear later. In the meantime, we swallow shivers and shivers without a name or title. The coast is very beautiful, either rocky or covered mostly with deciduous forests. Hot. We don’t sunbathe anymore, we’re already burned out. We occasionally flounder in the water. Tired of horse flies. Vityulya keeps a strict record of the corpses he killed - by lunchtime there were 57 of them. Today, seeing Vitya’s futile efforts in fishing, Lyuda decided to come to the aid of her discouraged comrade. And the result was immediate. For dinner there will be gudgeon fish soup in a smoked cauldron found, which Borka did not dare put on board the ship, looking with disgust at the skinny minnows.
In the end, it turned out that the Gooseneck Shiver passed through last night.
After lunch we passed the first big river, Konda. There are rocks at the mouth of the river; rafting along it is hardly possible. It's quite noisy. After the mouth of the Kondo River, three shivers passed, and now there was a roar ahead. This is the Motafoniha shiver – one of most beautiful places on Vitim. Two huge stone giants on both sides of the river guard the entrance to the kingdom of Motafonikha. And how many more invisible underwater guards await us! But we came only to pay tribute to the majestic beauty of her royal majesty, so the guards opened all the gates for us and generously offered to stay overnight in her domain. A single ax was left as a gift to Motafonikha. “As I remember now, he’s lying on the sand” - V. Prusakov. Luda took it upon herself to return what was lost.

21st of June.
In the morning we woke up to the noise of tugboats. It turns out that while we were going through the difficult part of the water route, which ended with the Motafonikha and B. Ingurskaya shivers, the water arrived and the longboats set off. We left at 10 o’clock and rode around a bit, clinging to the longboat because our second boat fell behind. We passed the village of Ingur, catching up with the tug. Several houses are visible on the shore. There is no store there, and we decided not to disembark. We arrived with tugboats to Ust-Taly. And a little below it, we stopped for lunch.

On a trailer to tugs. L. Ivanova

After lunch we set sail on our own. It started to rain, and we walked about 4 km in the rain and stopped. The left bank is steep, the right bank is less steep. We wanted to find Mount Obruchev, but it is either further away or does not stand out in any way, but it is just not visible.

22nd of June.
Today is Valentine's day and birthday. We climbed along the shore and began to prepare for the banquet. At night in the tent, Larisa soloed almost all the music of the “Hussar Ballad”.


June 23.
We left at 10 am. The main caravan of longboats passed. The water dropped as much as 30 cm. By lunchtime we rowed to the mouth of the Yumurchin River. On the other side there is a lonely rock with a cross on top. They called it "Church". Why and why we don’t know. But there is some hidden and dark meaning in this name.

Plesy. Plesy. Occasionally there are riffles, and I really want at least one shift, where we flew as if on wings. And now we are solving problems like: Vitim - it’s sometimes hot, sometimes cold, horse flies, the speed of movement is equal to the speed of the current - who is sitting on the oars? The flagship provides an opportunity to practice the technique of driving a low-sided vessel on stretches and shoals. “Oh, I’ll give it a ride!” occasionally catches up with this leaky bucket and gives valuable instructions. We meet a caravan of barges from Romanovka. We walk side by side for about three hours. Then it's very shallow. The caravan stood up, and our flotilla was not afraid of any shoals or Vitim’s other insidious plans.
We passed the 180th kilometer. We skip shallows, there is no rift, just riffles. The banks are low and covered with bushes. At 20 o'clock we stopped for the night, approximately 10 kilometers from Bugunda. For dinner we cook fish soup and bake flatbread. Lyuda and Vitya recite Lermontov by heart. The night comes into its own, there is a huge white stripe in the sky, like a big road along which this day has left us.

June 24.
The night is cold! On such nights only Borya does not freeze. But today his secret is revealed. He predatorily uses just a blanket designed for two souls to warm his only soul. “There is no bond holier than fellowship!” We have breakfast, as always, spiced up with cheerful laughter. Fees again. “Did you take the ax?” "Have taken". It's kind of a gray day. There's a whole aquarium in the boat. For lunch again fish soup.
Damn, there are so many of them. We are rowing, the mood is a little worse, this is apparently caused by the shallowing of the river. Headwind. It would be better if it were the other way around. Suddenly they remembered the binoculars. “As I remember now, I didn’t put it in the bag.” They let me know with a shot, “Oh, I’ll give you a ride!” about the emergency. Then, according to the proverb “A bad head gives no rest to your feet,” they stomped back. Tiring waiting. “Oh, I’ll give it a ride!” greets the flagship with obscene criticism.
Rain! Rain! Rain! We pass the Bugudinsky shallows, about 50 km to Yar, we were delighted in Bugunda (one house, one dog and the family of some Mongolian). On the right bank there is some little house without windows or doors. It turned out that this place is Schurup; hunters and harvesters come here, mowers from Krasny Yar. Everywhere you are greeted very warmly. Cold. There are several radical remedies for cold: Powerful strokes, Laughter and Shout a song, poetry. We stop about 20 km from Krasny Yar.

June 25.
We woke up in a wet tent and under wet blankets. There are the biggest puddles near Borka and Vityulya. It rained all night. The banks are low, but hills and mountains can be seen in the distance.
Vitim calmed down. Reaches, occasional riffles. We have lunch next to Krasny Yar. Quite a decent village. In Krasny Yar we are greeted warmly; what pleases Boris’s soul the most is the large seal that the local authorities generously placed in our route book.
The rain got heavier. They offer some kind of room for overnight stay at the board. But it’s better to get wet in the rain than to languish in a stuffy room. And again on the road, however, without Yarosky sweets, the store is on its day off. Probably, as a reward for our determination, the sun even shines for us, although not very much. On the way, a duck problem arises, the ducks circle above us like horseflies a few days ago, only the boats are already so overloaded that a problem arises. Where to store them if our hunters start delivering them in dozens. The problem is currently being resolved. It’s a pity that there is no movie camera; so far we can only capture the moments of tracking down prey and studying the habits of birds.
The left bank of Vitim beyond the Yar is beautiful and red, a high steep bank with outcrops of some red rocks, the water is also red.
We chose a parking spot. We dry the blanket and tent. But nature always favors good people. Today she bestows upon us quite royally. Rainbow all over the sky! Hey, you who are in civilized cities, you will never see anything like this. And on the shore there are bright sunny tiger lilies. Mountains in the distance. We still have 163 km to reach them.

June 26.
We left at 9 am. Time is running out a little, we need to be in Ust-Karenga on June 30, otherwise we won’t have much time left for the walking part of the route. At 11 o’clock the “Dog Holes” sailed by, nothing terrible for the boat, but shallow for the tug. Again, gray clouds blocked out the light and forced us to pull on our storm jackets and even down jackets. Only on the oars do people strip down to their vests. We don’t stop in Kholugli, there is no store. Pleasant meeting with Orlov, the boss from Romanovka. And although our goal is to get away from people, good people and meetings with them do not pass without a trace. And the more such meetings, the more wonderful life is.
We really didn’t think that on the shore of Vitim we would meet the remains of a crashed helicopter, which brought our boys to indescribable delight. And not only a helicopter, but also a bomb. But it was difficult to carry her away; they left her on the shore. We remembered the film “Stole a Bomb”.
We almost reached Shipishki. We stopped for the night on a ridge, houses were visible ahead. The river nearby is quiet and calm, we catch molts.

July 27.
We are near the village. Spikes. From the shore you can see that no one lives in the village. An empty, sad picture - an abandoned village.
We list all the obvious signs of good weather: smoke from the river, fog, birds singing, fish not biting. Only there was no sun, and no, but it's raining, occasionally stopping, and the clouds rushing behind us.
The water was large, three times we encountered rifts and rocks below us. We just had time, and there were enough of us to stay on the stream. We passed the Sigovu Shivera – this is the 311th kilometer. The shaft is big, good.
We reach the village of Solontsovo. Ust-Karenga is approximately 80 km away. Now we go with the flow, and everyone does their own thing. At the turn we saw the boat “Stepan Razin”, which was running aground. They signaled for us to arrive. After three hours of work, with our help, the boat refloated. And we stayed overnight on it. In the evening we talked and sang a lot and ate delicious smoked fish.

June 28.
We slept like Gods, but not enough! Razin's army rises at dawn, the boat leaves for Krasny Yar. We set off and solemnly accept the gift of “Razin” - a whole loaf of real white bread. We leave the pegs from the tent (“As I remember now, they were lying on the shore”). Everyone's faces are sleepy and no one wants to row.
Foggy morning, gray morning! Bells were sounded in honor of the raising of the flag. The boat, obeying only the flow of the river, follows the current of the riffle without a single stroke. The river works for us. We sleep, lie around until 3 p.m., play the fool, chase away flies and mosquitoes. And after lunch we row and row, and so on until the evening. We are already somewhere near Karenga, we should be there tomorrow.

June 29.
Today is the last day of the waterway. The sun sings a song to us in the morning. Vitim smiles, which rarely happens to him. Completely unexpected - big river. We stopped. We went upstream, it really turned out to be the Karenga River. If you walk along the shore, it’s a 10-minute walk to the village. Rowing against the current. We are a stubborn breed! “Oh, I’ll give it a ride!” The boatswain Ivanov and the sailor Tsukanov are rolling. On the flagship “Don’t hang your ears” - ears are on top, otherwise in an instant you can find yourself at the starting point. We make our way like on some river in the jungle. This is where the poles came in handy. The only thing Borka and Valka need is a sombrero and a carbine to brighten up the picture. We also have to fight off horse flies and mosquitoes. No, real tropics, not Eastern Siberia! And here is Ust-Karenga. Yes, this is a real resort, Siberian Switzerland! What friendly and wonderful people we meet along the way!

30 June.
A day is planned for today. We count the groceries and put away our clothes. The main load was sent in deer, and with lightweight backpacks we went to the topographers. We were greeted very cordially with condensed milk. We came with our pea soup and sausage. In the evening we did whatever we wanted.
Tomorrow it’s early to get up and the path ahead is quite difficult. Tomorrow we will leave Karenga with a feeling of great bitterness, because our flotilla was left without a rudder and sails, to be torn to pieces by the natives. Nobody wanted to buy boats, so I had to give up.

July 1.
The second half of our journey begins. We go out on foot. We climb about 20 km up the Karenga River on a boat with a Moskva motor. It feels like we’re flying on a “Rocket” if you look at the water. It’s worth looking at the shore - the illusion is destroyed, we are moving at a snail’s speed of about 3 km/h. But this is also very good. For such a current, especially since sometimes there are riffles. The shores are beautiful, with rocks. We made a stop on the left bank near a large winter hut. Vitya and Volodya walked along the river bank, and Vitya, out of habit, wore out his legs. Let's have lunch. Volodya, one of the working topographers, is trying to catch something with a spinning rod. His attempt was crowned with success. Finally, we see a real, decent pike. There will be an ear.

There is a journey ahead through the Transbaikal taiga, because we haven’t really seen it yet. First we walk without a path, then along the path, jumping over bumps, swatting away mosquitoes.
We began to rest more often, the trail was quite monotonous, there were swamps and bare sticks all around, only mountains could be seen in the distance, but they were so far away. And I really want to climb one of these beautiful high peaks. In the meantime, it’s already the fifth hour in the swamp. We passed a small pass, the ascent was quite long, but only when we started descending did we realize that we had gained altitude after all. You get thirsty, sometimes someone can’t stand it and drinks straight from the puddles, albeit with fairly clean and cold water. We need to go to the path along which our deer walked with the load. We assume that it is about 4 km away and the ascent is 120m. Of course, no one wants to get up, but everyone has already come to terms with this necessity. To great joy, the path was below. First we rush like deer in their tracks. But we’ve been rushing for more than an hour, and ahead there are only deer tracks, mosquitoes and swamps, and there is no sign of reindeer herder Kim and no deer. Everyone only thinks about tea and rest. Borya tries to steer on the bumps, Lyuda mostly on all fours more often, Vityulya mostly to himself, and sometimes out loud, wished all the best to the trail, the bumps, the deer and all the swamps. Yura took the last 200 meters on his belly, Larisa passionately hugged every bump, and only the future geologist Yu.A. (Yuri Alexandrovich) behaved mostly courageously. In one trip we would have immediately promoted him to the head of the expedition. You envy Yu.A., all the difficulties of the path pass him by. A MAN is walking through the taiga, whom it will never frighten, who knows almost all its secrets.
At 23:00 we finally reached our goal - Kim, deer, a fire, a hearty dinner and our own tent. Instead of 20 km, we walked all 40. We stayed on vitamins and glucose, from 5 a.m. until 11 p.m.

July 2.
We went to bed already at two o'clock in the morning. 600 minutes at the mercy of Morpheus, but the power is quite pleasant and no one protests.
Our experienced tourists are not looking for easy roads, and Vitya, Yura and Boris with Yu.A. They set off in search of difficulties on a journey through the char on burnt dwarf trees and stones. And we, sick and rheumatic, trudge along the trail after the deer.
In general, this first stop with deer was somehow unusual and interesting for everyone. We pay more attention to deer than they pay to us. We melt the reindeer to the other side of the river. Kim and Volodya are preparing the reindeer for the journey.

We crawl through the swamp. Volodya tries to step on the hummocks, Larisa tries to step on the hummocks, blessing the dwarf birch. As always, our constant companions are horse flies, they are replaced by mosquitoes. Sparse forests or old burnt areas - that’s the whole landscape, somewhere far away there are mountains. We came out onto a path that runs along the river. Elf trees and piles of graying stones overgrown with reindeer moss began to appear. There is sorrel. Let's go up. There's familiar smoke ahead. Time is 21 o'clock. We put up tents, cook dinner, drink tea and wait for our people. Somehow our summit conquerors are delayed.
A familiar melody is heard, they are coming. Tired, exhausted, dirty and wet, but very happy. “Boys, boys, how can I not envy you?!” Still, it was boring without them.

3 July.
We got up quite early. We climb the pass along the path along the stream. Yesterday's swamp platoon rose, without even holding on, by the tails of the deer. Now it's all down. We approached the scene of the helicopter accident. Guys and Yu.A. We looked at everything that could be seen and touched on these pitiful remains. Taking a bolt as a souvenir and inserting a feather into the tail of the helicopter, we finally moved on. We are catching up with the deer. There is no path, Kim, by some elusive signs for mere mortals, definitely leads us through the swamps to the river. Nerche. Cool, windy. Somehow we walked 20 km unnoticed. The pike hunt was led, of course, by Volodya. And in the evening again fish soup from pike. We sat by the fire for a while and talked. Everything is quiet, even the mosquitoes have calmed down, and only the noise of the Nercha roll nearby.

4th of July.
After a three-day trek, we rest together with the topographers, that is, you sleep, although you no longer feel sleepy, eat until you are too lazy to fill your spoon, and try to find some other entertainment. Luda opened a shoe shop. The men were trying to catch something. Vitya and Lyuda climbed a huge tree; there were no mosquitoes there. For lunch we enjoyed fried pike. Dinner is also festive, or rather unusual for our range of dishes - cabbage soup. Afterwards everyone gathered around the fire, sang and talked.

5'th of July.
Our Good friends leaving today. These are always a little sad moments, especially since it is unlikely that any path will bring us together. Last farewell photos, writing down addresses. Valyukha launches several “cosmonauts” - horse flies on a straw rocket. A salvo sounded from all guns, and Yu.A. Burlov fired back with a pistol. Everything is solemn and good. And our friends went back, only by a different route. A little sad. Good people in the taiga. And topographers are a miracle!
And here we are again, seven. We were silent for a while and began building the raft. A raft was quickly built in 40 minutes to cross the river. I’m not sure, here it is about 30 meters wide. Before this, Yu.A. showed us a ford, but the water was medium and the current was large. Better than a raft. We made it from dead wood, the ax was bad, but this did not affect the speed of building the raft. Having tied him up, they organized a crossing. The raft holds 3 people without backpacks. Let's combine. The crossing finished at 14:00 - time for lunch. They were located at the mouth of an unknown river, a tributary of the river. Nerchi.
And now again through swamps, taiga, rivers, stones, dead wood, often without paths, on the way to the intended goal. At 18:00 we reached the hill and walked along its outskirts to our overnight stay. We stopped at a stream that flowed out of the swamp. The wolves howled at night and it was hot all the time.

July 6.
By 12 noon everyone along the same hill reached the mouth of the Sev River. Berea. The mouth is 8-10 meters, cluttered with stones. The river is small, but when it floods it becomes impressive, as the rubble is made of such logs and stones that it is even difficult to believe that the stream is capable of this. After a couple of kilometers the trail passes the winter hut. Then it rolls into marigold. It’s very hot, it’s impossible to go from 13 to 18 o’clock - sun, heat, webs, so we set aside these hours for lunch. After lunch we passed two good streams. The trail is well readable, but part of it is swampy. We spent the night on a stream, at a place where two fallen logs tripled the waterfall, and the stream made a pleasant noise. It was cold at night.

July 7.
We leave at 8 am. The trail is good, hot all day. On the left it is always high. We stop for the night on the river bank.

July 8.
It’s a wonderful day, there will be sun, which means millions of horseflies. Today we must reach the winter hut. We walked about two kilometers, and we heard a cry of joy from the person ahead - “Zimovye”. Some have already begun to decide when we missed Tarasov Stream. It turned out that it was just a storehouse. But in search of the winter hut, we found the right path. We walk along Mari, supported by People’s vitamins. The most impatient sweet tooths beg for chocolate, claiming that there are no difficult places on the route. For some reason they remembered. That in the world there is aviation, tomatoes, strawberries and cream.
Still, how prudently everything is arranged in nature, after the mari, swamps - a wonderful path along the river, cluttered with stones. So this is the kind of stream Taras has. Two mountain streams met. Wild, majestic taiga, a pile of stones and we are alone in these wilds. 13 hours. We get up for lunch. And be sure to swim! Squeals, cries of joy, delight, and the water is icy. Fatigue shamefully fled. Quiet afternoon moments arrive. Valka solves mathematical problems. Larisa sunbathes in the middle of the river on one of the pebbles.
The winter hut is 8 kilometers away. The path, already a rut after the passage of the tractor, goes all the time uphill, the climb is not very steep. After two hours of climbing, we reach the plateau. A grandiose panorama of a chain of mountains opens up, and we again crawl through the swamp.
The bearded men went on reconnaissance, leaving others in the middle of the swamp to listen to the singing of mosquitoes. We wait about 1.5 hours. They return wet, tired, but with victory. Zimovye is 1.5 km from us. The scouts walked about 10 km, passed by and did not notice, and only when returning did they find it. The winter hut is large. What pleased me most was the bathhouse, which was clean and well-maintained. The rest of the houses are in disarray and two years of dirt. We have dinner, fall asleep with the knowledge that there is a day ahead, a bathhouse, chocolate and pudding with jelly

July 9.
Yesterday we hurried to the winter quarters to have a day out today. Okay, day! The rise is not announced, but everyone was up by 9 am. Everyone is happy. Nobody wants to do anything, the sky is clear. The most solemn thing begins - we heat the bathhouse! It heats up well, slowly. A small hut with two tanks, one with a firebox and the other with water. In 2.5 hours we heated it up, checked it, and can wash it. The first ones are the guys. Great! After the bath, Larisa prepared chocolate, everyone was happy.

July 10.
In the morning we storm the pass. The trail looks like a very bad country road. As always, at the pass we admire the panorama that opens up and look for the city of Bura. It's damp all around, we're walking knee-deep in water. A long descent and again swamps and little white flowers. We climbed quite high, and there were swamps all around, which means Transbaikalia, not the Caucasus. By lunchtime we approached the Olekma River, Mount Bura remains on the left. We have lunch, have fun, build a dam. Competition, 4 minutes Valka and Larisa sit in icy water and yell “Bablik!” Realizing that Valka has already become stunned, we forcefully pull Larisa out of the water and award the victory to Valentin. It's cool today, so we're going out early. There is another pass ahead, from which you can see Mount Kropotkin, the pinnacle of our dreams! We admire it. The clouds are nearby, and there are chains of mountains all around. Another descent, we crossed two streams and stopped for the night on the third. The place is bare, there are several larches near the shore.

July 11.
Borya crawled out of the tent in the morning and, rubbing his eyes, looked at the world and exclaimed: “Mountains, sun, stream, mosquitoes - beauty!” Packing for the pass. First, as always, in Mary, admiring the little white flowers. The higher you go, the better the trail, which is sometimes rocky. There are cedar dwarf trees all around. The pass is good; after lunch we only had time to descend. An innovation has appeared in our daily routine - afternoon tea. Today tea with lingonberries. We walked 7 km, climbed quite high, about 1400m. In the distance are snowy peaks and mountain ranges in a blue haze, very majestic and proud. Everyone was a little tired, we stopped at the first stream. It feels like the end of the hike is coming.

July 13.
We try to dry off, drink coffee, and wait for Valka. He had already managed to climb to the nearest peak. He returned wet, but satisfied. Visited the clouds! We are at the same height, but it is already late, the clouds and clouds have rushed on. At the top there are strangely shaped stones and rocks. I remember my native Stolby! Everyone is in a wonderful mood. We are trying to identify Mount Kropotkin. In the meantime, we are storming the neighboring higher mountain. And only here we saw the goal of our journey right in front of us.
We started the traverse of the passing ridge without Lyuda. She caught up with us alone at the foot of the peak. The assault on Mount Kropotkin passed without incident, general rejoicing, a note, and a return to camp.

view from the top of Mount Kropotkin

the 14 th of July.
Early in the morning they quickly took off and almost fled to the village of Sirigichi. Lude is a feather! The rest of the day is reconnaissance to the airfield, lingonberry jelly.

L. Ivanova. At the Sirigichi mine. Bathhouse visible

July 15.
We left Sirigici. The road is good, there is a two-kilometer climb that ends at the landing site. After it there is a long and swampy descent. Marie is a nightmare, knee-deep in water all the time. A little below the airfield a stream begins and then the descent goes straight along it. The tractor road is clearly legible, but the mud is strong, due to the rains that fell for three days after lunch. We stopped for the night in front of a large stream. We surround the tent with a network of smokers. In the evening we measure the buckwheat, peas, crackers - crumbs, enough sugar one piece at a time. Should be in the village on the 19th. Ksenyevka.

ascent from Syrygichi to the pass
July 16.
Again, ahead is the haze desert, which seems to have no end. Huge goosefoot valley! I remember the first days of our journey. But the technique of moving through swamps is at an unattainable height for most. Only heavyweights sometimes manage to fall knee-deep or higher.
We are heading towards a thunderstorm and a storm.
"The storm roared,
The rain was noisy
Lightning flashed in the darkness,
And we fought to take the mari!
Still, we decided to put up a tent in 24 seconds. Our house was built right there in the swamp. We listen to the sound of rain. Some argue that this is better than solving long-solved math problems. But the thunderstorm passed, the storm passed, and our swamp army rushed on.
We have lunch by the Nerchugan River. Quite deep. There is no sun. The girls swam anyway, the boys just looked around fearfully.
After lunch we went to the watershed of the Nerchugan and Jalir rivers. At least one wader to feel that there is a land that does not shake underfoot. We stop at the source of the stream. “We’ll see what it will be like in 17 km,” says Boris. And within an hour the stream was making noise throughout the entire forest. We descend into the valley. Beautiful forest road. The legs run on their own. A road stream runs next to us. He teases and calls for him. It's a lot of fun to walk around him! The last fifty is running out, we stop for the night. According to the map, the Jalir River is 5 km away. Smoke fumes are burning, a mountain goat is hooting somewhere.

July 17th.
It's very close to Jalir. Everyone is somehow happy and walking well. No wonder we were so eager to reach Jalir, a river with a beautiful name. Among the hills, taiga and meadows, it majestically carries its waters, rapids and stormy. And far across the taiga you can hear the murmur of its waves. We walk along the Jalir meadow, flowers, flowers, flowers. The grass is growing tall, but the strawberries are still green. The road goes somewhere to the side. The guys went to find out. They return with good news: they saw 9 people and 1 horse mowers. We got some shag. My conscience did not allow me to ask for bread. Ksenyevka is 72 km away.
And yet, despite the fact that often on the way there are native swamps with melodic champing and terrible hummocks, a quagmire from which it is difficult to extract Lyuda, sometimes only his backpack sticks out instead of Vitya, and still everything goes well. Fifty minutes pass somehow unnoticed, especially after peas at lunch. We stop on the bank of Jalir, and only the noise of the rifts, taiga all around! For dinner - native buckwheat, we remember Vanya, butter, cocoa with imaginary condensed milk.

July 18 – 19.
There is an all-terrain road leading to Ksenyevka, which is also swampy. We walk along the bank of the Jalir until it flows into the river. Black Uryum. Strawberry scatterings underfoot, we trample, we hurry, there is no food left at all.
We made a dash of 25 km and by 18:00 we reached the Black Uchum River. The river is wide, about 70 meters. We waded, the water was just below waist level, the current was fast. We went over and washed ourselves. An hour later we were at the station in the village. Ksenyevka.
The hike is over.

Diaries and photographs of the hike for publication were provided by a participant in the hike - Lyudmila Tsukanova.

From the archives of the Yantar club (Tomsk region):
On the ice floes of Lake Merzbacher. 1963
http://www.site/blog/207249

Pamir palaces. First meeting. 1965
http://www.site/blog/207364

Fedchenko Glacier on skis for the first time. Diary from 1970.
http://www.site/blog/199850

For the first time in the history of polar expeditions, a team of skiers reached the North Pole.
http://www.

Fishing on the river is famous for its catches big pike, lenka and grayling.

The Stanovoye Highland extends in the north-east direction with the North-Muysky, South-Muysky, Muyakansky ridges with altitudes of up to 3000 meters. The average height of the ridges is 1400-2000 m above sea level. The Kodarsky and Verkhne-Angarsky ridges stand out. With a distinct alpine character and altitudes above 3,000 metres, these ranges attract mountaineers and hikers. Glaciers have been discovered in the Kodara Mountains.

You can get into the region from the south - from Chita or Ulan-Ude or from the north along the BAM. Between the mountain ridges lie large flattened basins. So Lake Baunt is located in the basin of the same name. The lake is rich in fish - perch, pike, sorog. There are many thermal springs around the lake. The Baunt resort was built. The temperature at the source is 50 degrees. The road from the regional center Bogdyren, connecting the Baunt Basin with the mainland, ends here.


The Lower Tsipa, flowing from Lake Baunt along a basin of 235 km, has the character of a full-flowing winding river. After leaving the basin, Tsipa breaks through the mountains of the South Muya Range, forming more than a hundred obstacles with a shaft height of 1.5 - 2 meters. The river rushes through the rapids in a raging torrent. Rafting of the 4th category of difficulty. Fishing on the river is famous for its catches of large pike. Good fishing for grayling and lenok. The rafting takes place along a fast and pulsating river among the rocks and peaks of the South Muya Range. Rafting along the Vitim for 150 km will let you feel the power of this Siberian river. The speed of the flow of the Tsipa and Vitim makes it possible to conquer vast expanses of untouched expanses of Transbaikalia. Despite the route's kilometers, the travel schedule is not stressful and time is provided for rest and fishing.


The Tsipa River flows in western Transbaikalia and is a major tributary of the mighty Vitim. The Stanovoye Highlands, located east of Baikal and the Barguzin ridge, give rise to the sources of the Vitim and its tributaries. The Tsipa and Tsipikan rivers originate from the slopes of the South Muisky ridge; they flow into Lake Baunt, and the full-flowing Tsipa flows out of it in a northeast direction.

The Stanovoye Highland extends in the north-east direction with the North-Muysky, South-Muysky, Muyakansky ridges with altitudes of up to 3000 meters. The average height of the ridges is 1400 - 2000 m above sea level. The Kodarsky and Verkhne-Angarsky ridges stand out. With a distinct alpine character and altitudes above 3,000 metres, these ranges attract mountaineers and hikers. Glaciers have been discovered in the Kodara Mountains.

You can get into the region from the south - from Chita or Ulan-Ude or from the north along the BAM. Between the mountain ridges lie large flattened basins. So Lake Baunt is located in the basin of the same name. The lake is rich in fish - perch, pike, sorog. There are many thermal springs around the lake. The Baunt resort was built. The temperature at the source is 50 degrees. The road from the regional center Bogdyren, connecting the Baunt Basin with the mainland, ends here.

Rafting on the Tsipican, Tsipa, Vitim rivers

The Lower Tsipa, flowing from Lake Baunt along a basin of 235 km, has the character of a full-flowing winding river. After leaving the basin, Tsipa breaks through the mountains of the South Muya Range, forming more than a hundred obstacles with a shaft height of 1.5 - 2 meters. The river rushes through the rapids in a raging torrent. Rafting of the 4th category of difficulty. Fishing on the river is famous for its catches of large pike. Good fishing for grayling and lenok. The rafting takes place along a fast and pulsating river among the rocks and peaks of the South Muya Range. Rafting along the Vitim for 150 km will let you feel the power of this Siberian river. The speed of the flow of the Tsipa and Vitim makes it possible to conquer vast expanses of untouched expanses of Transbaikalia. Despite the route's kilometers, the travel schedule is not stressful and time is provided for rest and fishing.


Vitim- a large right tributary of the Lena River, one of the wildest and most unique rivers in Eastern Siberia. A great expert on the region, Academician V. A. Obruchev, wrote that Vitim is much more willful, majestic and impressive than the lazy Lena.

The total length of the river is 1978 km. It is born on the eastern slopes of the Ikat ridge. In the upper reaches it is called Vitimkan. Translated from Evenki, “kan” means small, i.e. Little Vitim. Vitim itself is formed at the confluence of the Vitimkan with the China River, flowing from the slopes of the Tsipikansky massif. Vitim on the way to the Lena, skirting the Vitim Plateau and crosswise crossing the ridges of the Stanovoy Highlands, sharply changes the direction of the flow several times: north-eastern - in the very upper reaches, southern - after the confluence of the Chyna, eastern - after the confluence with the Zaza River; Below the confluence of the Karenga, the river flows north (with some deviations).

(Vitim - Transbaikalia)

Before we begin the description of Vitim, it is necessary to warn future travelers - do not be deceived by its relatively small specific falls (on average 0.7 m/km). Vitim is a technically complex river, with a diverse set of natural obstacles. The difficulties of sailing along it are caused by the huge mass of water that rushes during summer-autumn rain floods. They follow the Vitim one after another, coming first from the right, sometimes from the left along its large tributaries. It is rare for a flood to cover several tributaries at once. It is safe to say that sailing on a river like the Vitim is more interesting than on many other rivers that have large specific falls.



According to its physical and geographical characteristics, Vitim can be divided into the following areas: 1) sources: the village of Romanovka (the mouth of the Kholoy River) (501 km); 2) upper reaches: the village of Romanovka - the mouth of the Karenga River (411 km); middle course: the mouth of Karenga - the city of Bodaibo (776 km); lower reaches: Bodaibo - mouth (290 km).

The main interest for water tourists is the upper and middle reaches of the Vitim. For a more detailed acquaintance with the river and establishing the boundaries where changes in its character occur, the river can be divided, depending on the water situation and navigation conditions, into several sections:

Upstream:

1) the village of Romanovka - the mouth of the Ingur River;

2) the mouth of the Ingura - the mouth of the Karenga River;

average current:

1) the mouth of Karenga - the mouth of the Bambuika River;

2) the mouth of Bambuika - Paramsky threshold;

3) Paramsky threshold - Delyun-Oronsky threshold;

4) Delyun-Oronsky threshold - the city of Bodaibo.

Rafting on the Tsipican, Tsipa, Vitim rivers

Tsipa (Lower Tsipa) is a river in the north of Buryatia, a left tributary of the Vitim.

The river flows from Baunt Lake. The river flowing into the lake from the west is called the Upper Tsipa. The first 220 km to the Uyu weather station, the river flows very slowly (0.4 m/sec maximum) along the Bauntovskaya basin. Further, Tsipa, squeezed on all sides by ridges, winds strongly, gaining strength before breaking through the Babanta Mountains. This section contains 119 obstacles in the form of rapids and rifts. In general, the Tsipa rapids are characterized by very large shafts up to 4 meters and barrels. The plums are not cool, but very powerful. The most serious obstacle is rapids No. 49, where Tsipa loses more than 5 meters of height. Below the cascade at the mouth of the Tsirik there is a good bathhouse and winter quarters. This is a traditional place for tourists to stop, like the “museums” on the Oka and Katun rivers. After Cyric comes the last serious obstacle, rapids No. 119 or Kadran. All rapids are relatively easy for large vessels (4-seater catamarans, rafts, rafts, etc.). Due to the abundance of rain, high water on the river usually occurs in July. Width 150-200 m, depth up to 9 meters. The shores are sandy, there are many bays and channels. There are a lot of different fish, especially perch, pike, and lenka. There are also whitefish, grayling, and taimen. Lots of game and animals.

The Tsipa region is famous for its jade mining. On one of the tributaries of the Tsipa there is a large deposit of the highest quality jade in the world.

TributariesRight tributaries: Ugolnaya (Uligli), Goryachaya, Glubokiy, Sarov, Kudor, Kadali, Kurungda, Bira, Olingda, Mramornaya, Fork, Voymakan, Boime, Siliktorni, Bugarikta, Amalat, Bulanki, Aktragda, Connorin.

Left tributaries: Bucha, Uakit, Golbylok, Sivakit, Vekovye, Amnunnik, Talikit, Birkachan 1st, Birkachan 2nd, Amnunna Tsipinskaya, Chudelma, Tulekit, Nimnokit, Tsirik, Mramorny, Zhelban, Kevekte, Zhalyu, Cheryomushny, Khaita, Curve, Ima.


Baunt is a lake in the north of Buryatia , located in the western part of the Baunt Basin. The Nizhnyaya Tsipa River flows out of the lake, near the source of which the village of Baunt and a weather station are located. On the southern shore of the lake at the foot of Big Hapton Mountain is the Baunt Resort. The lake is home to over 20 species of fish. The banks are high, rocky, steep in the north-west, and swampy between the Nizhnyaya Tsipa and Tsipicana rivers.

(Vitim - first frost)

REPORT

about water tourist travel in Northern Transbaikalia

with rafting on the rivers Tsipikan, Tsipa, Vitim (Transbaikalia, Kodar),

TRAVEL INFORMATION

1. Travel area - Northern Transbaikalia.

2. Route thread - Rafting along the Tsipikan river from the bridge over the Tsipikan river (12 km above the village of Tsipikan) to Lake Baunt, Nizhnyaya Tsipa river - Tsipa river - Vitim river - Vitim village

3. The total length of the route is 722 km

Rafting on the Tsipikan River - 90 km

Rafting on Baunt Lake - 5 km

Rafting on the Nizhnyaya Tsipa River - 220 km

Rafting on the Tsipa River - 280 km

Rafting on the Vitim River - 127 km

The total rafting distance was 772 km

4. Travel duration 33 days

On the active part of the route - 21 days

Approach to the beginning of the route - 7 days:

6. Type of tourism: water

General route diagram


INFORMATION ABOUT THE TRAVEL AREA

The travel area is located north-east of Lake Baikal, where the mountain-taiga region is located, occupied by the Vitim River basin - Vitim Territory.

Relief

The Vitim region includes the vast Vitim Plateau and a number of higher highlands - Stanovoe, North Baikal, Potomskoe. The Vitim Plateau occupies almost the entire southern half of the river basin. It is characterized by a small density of dissection and a relatively uniform topography. The Vitim plateau is composed mainly of granites and ancient shales. However, in its southwestern part there are places covered with young rocks poured out through cracks - basalts.

The northern half of the basin is occupied by the ridge systems of the Stanovoy, North Baikal and Patom uplands.

The Stanovoe Highland includes a number of intermountain basins. Their chain stretched from southwest to northeast from the northern tip of Lake Baikal to the Lena River in the Olekminsk region. The most significant of them are: Verkhne-Angarskaya, Bauntovskaya, Muisko-Kuandiyskaya and Charskaya. The surrounding mountain ranges drop steeply towards the basins, the flat topography of which contrasts sharply with the surrounding mountainous country. Their bottom, as a rule, is flat, table-shaped, and very swampy. It is lowered in relation to the surrounding ridges by 1500-1700 m, located at an altitude of 500 to 900 m.

The second largest orographic system in the northern part of the Vitim region is the North Baikal Highlands. It is located north of Stanovoye in the interfluve of the Kirenga, Lena, and Vitim rivers. This is an area with a typically mid-mountain, highly smoothed topography. The average height is 1200-1500 m. Only in the southern part do individual peaks of flat massifs rise above 2500 m (Bezymyanny char - 2608 m).

The northeastern corner is occupied by the Patom Highlands. It has calm, smooth forms. The average height is 1100 m. The entire northern part of the Vitim basin, occupied by highlands, has a complex geological structure. Crystalline schists, quartzites and gneisses predominate here.

The Baunt Basin has an area of ​​7000 km2, with more than half occupied by the water surface. There are several hundred lakes in the basin, the largest of which are: Busani 18,000 hectares, Baunt 16,500 hectares, Oron 12,500 hectares. Geologically, these lakes are the remnants of one common lake.

The Vitim region belongs to the area of ​​Baikal-Muya seismic activity. central part The basin is located in the zone of possible earthquakes of magnitude 8-9. To the south and north of the Baikal-Muya axis, seismicity fades.

Climate

The climate of the Vitim region is harsh and varied. It is characterized by significant seasonal and daily temperature fluctuations. The period of the year with positive temperatures lasts from May to September. Summer usually begins in early June. The central month of summer - July - is the warmest. The average monthly air temperature reaches +17°C in July and is characterized by the least variability between years. The absolute maximum reaches +35°C, while at the same time temperature drops to +5°C are not uncommon. The first half of summer is mostly dry. The greatest amount of precipitation occurs in July - August, about 70% annual rate. In the summer months there are days with precipitation: June - 11, July - 14, August - 16. Rains, as a rule, are short but intense. Prolonged rains are rare and occur mainly from the second half of August. At the end of August the rains stop. Freeze-up begins at the end of September.

Almost the entire Vitim basin is located in a zone of continuous permafrost. The depth of the soil that thaws during the summer depends on orientation, forest cover and other factors and ranges from 0.5 to 2 m.

All rivers of the Vitim basin according to the nature of their feeding and water regime belong to rivers predominantly fed by rain. In summer, floods are frequent and the level regime is highly unstable. Significant rises in river levels are possible during the day. After the rains stop, the water quickly subsides.

The temperature regime of water in summer depends entirely on the nature and location river valley. If in the upper reaches almost all rivers have a water temperature of 6-10°C, then in the middle and lower reaches it warms up to 10-18°C, depending on the presence of lakes or basin areas in the river system.

This year we had a very dry summer and the lowest water levels. A local Buryat hunter said that such a dry summer and water level had not been here for 20 years. In connection with this, a fire danger situation arose; forests were burning in the valley of the Gorbylok River. We were extremely careful.

Flora and fauna

According to the nature of the vegetation of the Vitim region, three high-altitude zones can be distinguished: the goltsy zone - completely covered with stone screes with a spotted carpet of mosses and lichens (20% of the territory), the taiga, mainly light-coniferous taiga with an undergrowth of birch and dwarf birch (about 65% of the territory), swamp-lutovaya with lakes and oxbow lakes (about 15%). In the taiga, larch predominates, followed by pine, then spruce and a little cedar. Birch, poplar, aspen, and alder grow in broad-leaved forests.

The Vitim region is rich in animals. Almost uninhabited, covered with impenetrable forests and marshy swamps, rich in food, it is like a natural reserve. Moose, reindeer, roe deer, and wild goats live here. The most common large predator is the brown bear. Sable, ferret, weasel, fox, wolverine and wolves are widespread. Lots of rodents - hare, squirrel, chipmunk.

For birds, the taiga serves only as a temporary refuge, and the indigenous inhabitants of the mountain taiga are: jay, nutcracker, wood grouse, hazel grouse, and black grouse. In autumn, ducks gather in flocks on oxbow lakes and lakes. We met a bear, a wolf, a deer, an elk, and a sheep. There was a lot of game.

The reservoirs of the Vitim region are rich in fish. Lots of grayling, lenok, whitefish, taimen. In lakes and oxbow lakes there is an abundance of crucian carp, ide, pike, perch, and dace. Lake Busani is the richest in fish. However, it should be noted that this year there were practically no grayling. Even with a fly I caught mostly lenok.

There are quite a lot of blood-sucking insects in the area; it is advisable to carry repellent with you. This year was notable for the presence of a huge number of midges both on land and on water.

Villages encountered along the route:

Bagdarin is the center of the Bauntovsky district (aymona), about two thousand inhabitants. All administrative, economic and cultural institutions of the region are located here. There is a school, a hospital, a hotel, a post office, shops, a canteen, a cinema, and an airport. The management of the geological expedition of the North of Buryatia is located in Bagdarin.

Goryachy Klyuch Resort. It is named so because there is a hot hydrogen sulfide spring nearby at the foot of an extinct volcano. The population of the village is several households.

The village of Tsyutikan. Power station, canteen, shops, you can wash in the bathhouse. The population is about 40 households.

Pos. Baunt. It has about 30 yards. The village has a post office, a store, a bakery and a forestry office. The airport is operational.

Pos. Wakit. It has about 60 yards. The village has a village council, a post office, a hospital, two shops, an airport, and gold mining is underway.

Wuyu weather station. The last settlement on the Tsipa River. Currently, meteorologist Nikolai Usynin lives with his wife and daughter. Next to the winter hut there is a permanent base for geologists - several huts and a bathhouse. You can wash yourself and buy some cereal and bread.

Gulinga. An abandoned village on the Vitim River in the Bambui Basin. Located on the right bank of the river. People visit during haymaking. This year there lives a gypsy family.

Bamboo. Previously a large, but now abandoned village, located on the river of the same name, two km from the left bank of the Vitim River.

Pos. Vitim. Located on the left bank of the Vitim River at the site of the railway (BAM) and road bridges across the river. Stop for commuter and passenger trains.

TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE

1. General characteristics of the route

Length 722 km

The Tsipa River is a left tributary of the Vitim, born in a mountain junction at the junction of the Ikat and South Muya ranges in close proximity to the sources of the Barguzin River. This is the largest tributary of the Vitim (685 km).

The entire Tsipa can be divided into three completely different sections:

1. from the source to the exit to the Bauntovskaya Basin - 170 km (Upper Tsipa or Tsipican),

2. hollow (Lower Tsipa) - 235 km,

3. from the winter hut Uyu to the confluence with Vitim (Tsipa) - 280 km, where the river crosses the high-mountainous zone of the Stanovoy Range.

The route taken by the group can be divided into five sections:

1.r. Tsipikan - from the bridge over Tsipikan, lake. Baunt to the village. Baunt,

2.r. Nizhnyaya Tsipa from the village. Baunt to the Uyu weather station,

3.r. Tsipa from m/s Uyu until then. 119 (r. Kadyrin),

4.r. Tsipa from pores. 119 before the confluence with Vitim,

5.r. Vitim from the mouth of Tsipa to the village. Vitim (BAM).

2. Bridge above the village of Tsipican - Tsipican River - Lake Baunt - Baunt village

Length 95 km

The area is simple, the current is slow, there are rifts, there is practically no fishing, apparently due to pollution from dredges during gold mining. In addition, one must be prepared for an unpleasant crossing of the river mouth, where there is intense gas emission, apparently due to the decay of the forest, flooded with sediment after dredging. When driving on the lake, you must follow the usual safety precautions when crossing open water spaces.

Crossing the Vitim near the village of Romanovka At the mouth of Tsipikan Landscapes of Tsipikan In front of the village of Tsipikan Lake Baunt Tsipa River below the Uyu weather station

3. Nizhnyaya Tsipa from the village of Baunt to the Uyu weather station

Length 220 km

Below the lake The Baunt River flows in a basin, the width of the river in some places reaches 250-300 m. The flow speed is 2-3 km/h. There are many lakes and swamps along the shores, but you can always find a parking place. Sometimes there are areas on the river with an increased slope, where the flow speed increases slightly. Along the entire river, pike and perch are well caught using spoons, especially at the confluence of tributaries and at the exit from oxbow lakes. The rafting is long and uninteresting. There are no obstacles on the river, except for rare short riffles. The only interesting place is the hot spring zone at the confluence of the river. Shurynda, 150 m above its mouth. The river makes a loop that resembles a crater, with hot springs gushing out in several places. The river is shallow, and by mixing its water and sources you can get a completely satisfactory temperature. There is a mighty pine forest around and not a single larch. Traces of an abandoned village remained in the clearings. It is important not to miss this place. The landmark is a kilometer-long ravine on the right bank, after which the pine forest itself opens up. In front of him is a 30-meter clearing. On the left bank there is a lowland and an exit from the oxbow lake. There is no such high density of pine anywhere else on the river. In the backwater in front of the forest and in Tsipa itself, in this place large pike and, possibly, lenok are excellently caught with a spoon - gatherings of very large fish have been noted.

It should be noted that there is a beautiful and fishing place on the right bank of the river. Nizhnyaya Tsipa opposite the mouth of the river. Vekovye (30 km to MS Uyu).


4. Tsipa from the Uyu weather station to threshold 119

Length 133 km

This is the most interesting and technically difficult section on the route.

In the wintering area of ​​Uyu, the river unexpectedly turns 90° to the south. There is a gauging station and a weather station in Uyu, where year-round hydrometeorological observations are carried out. Uyu is the last settlement on the Tsipa before its confluence with the Vitim. The geologists' base is also located here. It is possible to negotiate with the watchman to purchase bread, cereals, and heat the bathhouse.

Below the Uyu winter hut, the Tsipa River flows calmly for about 5 km, heading straight into the mountains surrounding the basin. The river makes several sharp turns and enters the mountains. The first 12 km from the winter hydroelectric station of the weather station to the mouth of the Talakit (left tributary, at 264 km) the surface of the river is relatively calm. Here come the shivers. At the mouth of Talakit, on a relatively high bank, there is an abandoned geologists' base. In the summer, fishermen go down to this place in motor boats; they do not risk going further. Lenok fishing is excellent in the Talakit River.


Below the mouth of Talakit, the Tsipa initially splits into several channels, then the valley takes on the appearance of a narrow, deep winding gorge cutting through the high-mountainous part of the region. At the same time, the river turns into a stormy stream. The width of the river is 50-100 m, the average speed of the current is 10 km/h, in rapids and rifts it is 18-20 km/h, and in high water on some rapids up to 30 km/h. In average water, depths range from 0.5 m on the rifts to 5-6 m in holes and under rapids. The longitudinal profile line of the bottom is very steep and strongly broken. Specific falls reach 15 m/km. All natural obstacles on the river are concentrated at the inflection points - rapids, rifts, rifts.

In the section from the mouth of the Talakit River to the mouth of the Kadyrin River (left tributary), with a length of 115 km, 117 rapids, rifts, and rapids are concentrated, and it should be noted that at high water, almost all rapids turn into powerful rifts. The length of the rapids and rifts ranges from several tens to several hundred meters. The total drop on the site is 400 m, giving an average slope of about 3.5 m/km. On particularly powerful cascades of rapids and rifts, the total drop reaches 8-10 m/km.

All natural obstacles on the river, with a known approximation, can be divided into three main groups.

The first category includes rapids and rifts that have a specific drop of more than 7 m/km, with a coarse-block structure of the bottom near the river banks, and a large number of stones in the riverbed. These rapids and rifts are dangerous, mainly because of the high swells (in medium water - 2.5-3 m, in high water - up to 4-5 m).

The second group consists of rapids and shivers with a specific drop from 3 to 7 m/km. There are a lot of submerged and semi-submerged stones on them, which make the passage technically more difficult.

The third group includes rifts and rifts with a specific drop of up to 3 m/km. In medium water, the main difficulty with them is determining the correct line of movement among the stones, and in high water there is also a rather high shaft.

5. Tsipa from the Kodyrin stream to the confluence with the Vitim river

Length 149 km

1 km below rapids 119, the Tsipa River becomes calmer compared to the previous section. Here, over a distance of 149 km, 56 natural obstacles are scattered: rifts and rifts. At high water, many rifts and riffles are very powerful, with a high standing shaft. The Tsipa River flows into Vitim as a calm, powerful stream. The arrow is formed by a high iron-shaped rock cliff on the right bank of the Tsipa.

6. Vitim from the mouth of Tsipa to the village of Vitim

Length 127 km

In the section from the mouth of Tsipa to the village of Bambuika, the Vitim River has no major natural obstacles. There are several rifts with fairly high swells. Below the village of Bambuika, Vitim forms a series of strong nominal shivers with a high shaft. The total fall of the river in this section is about 100 m, with an average fall of 1 m/km. Near the village of Vitim, the river emerges from the mountains into the Muya Basin. The average speed on the section is 8 km/h.


7. Pilot position of the Tsipa River

Longitudinal profile of the Tsipa River in the section Uyu MS - mouth

1. Shivera 1 km below the winter hydroelectric station of the weather station. Shafts up to 1.5 m. The bed is clean. It goes right through the middle.

2. Shiver, shaft up to 1 m. Passes through the center of the jet.

3. Shiver, shaft up to 1 m. Passes through the center of the jet.

4. Shiver, shaft up to 1 m. Passes through the center of the jet.

5. Shiver, shaft up to 1 m. Passes through the center of the jet.

6. Shivera, shaft up to 1 m. In high water, the islands are practically flooded, passage immediately follows the main stream.

7. Shivera before the confluence of the M.Alinda river on the right. Shaft up to 1.5 m. Passage straight through the center.

8. Shiver, shaft up to 0.8 m. Passage straight through the center.

9. Shiver, shaft up to 0.8 m. Passage straight through the center.

10. Powerful shivera. On the left bank in the forest you can see the remains of log houses. It is necessary to land on the left bank near the log houses to view the rift. Shivera begins with a powerful discharge. In the center the shafts are up to 2-2.5 m.

11. Powerful threshold. Must be reviewed. In middle water directions, it is recommended to view the rapids along the left bank; in high water, it is better to view the rapids along the right bank (see Fig. 1). The rapid begins at the right turn of the river. At the entrance there is a row of powerful barrels, shafts from 1.5 m at the entrance to 3-4 m in the middle of the threshold. There is a large barrel on the left bank, then there is a series of high shafts that reach their climax after a right turn. Then at the left turn there is another row of barrels and a mass of high shafts with a gradually fading amplitude at the exit from the threshold.

12. Powerful threshold. In the threshold, in a checkerboard pattern, there is a row of barrels and shafts up to 1.5 m high. The entrance to the threshold is in the center, and then gradually moves to the left bank (see Fig. 2).

13. Powerful shivera. At the entrance on the left there is a ridge of pitfalls. Below, its flow gathers into a powerful jet. The entrance to the rift is in the right third of the channel, and then goes closer to the center. Output shafts up to 2 m.

14. Powerful shivera. Enter the rift under the left bank, and then go to the center. After 250 m, shift 15.

15. Shivers, shafts up to 1.5 m. Passage straight through the center.

16. Shivera immediately after the mouth of the B.Alinda river. Near the shores there are boulders hidden deep under water. In the center there are shafts up to 2 m high. Walk through the center.

17. Powerful shivera. The passage is closer to the right bank.

18. Powerful rift, 300 m. The stream flows in a long rocky corridor. At the exit the rocks are slightly higher and jut into the river. Here the flow gathers into a single drain with shafts up to 3 m. The entrance to the rift is closer to the left bank, then passes along the left edge of the stream and at the exit turns sharply to the left, crossing the stream and moving away from the risers at the exit from the rift. Shiver 18 is better to look at before passing.

19. Powerful rapids, 200 m, at the right turn of the river. The right bank is steep. The river is raised by a powerful ridge of stones from the left bank. At the entrance on the left bank there is a row of barrels. The drain is shifted to the right. Shafts below the drain up to 2 m.

20-24. Powerful shivers.

25. Threshold. In the center the shafts are up to 3 m (Fig. 4).

26. Powerful threshold. The width is about 70 m. On the left, in 2/3 of the channel, there are three pitfalls, behind which there are powerful barrels. On the left bank there is an abundance of stones hidden by ramparts. The main drain is under the right bank. Shafts 2-2.5 m.

27. Powerful shivera. There are many pitfalls, the entrance is under the left bank, and then sharply goes to the center.

28. Shivera. Passage along the right side of the main stream.

29. A small rapid at the right turn of the river. Clean drainage, shafts up to 2.5 m. Passage through the center.

30-46. Shivers of different types.

47. A short powerful rapid, 100 m. There are two barrels on the left bank - one after the other. One barrel on the right bank, the shafts in the threshold are up to 2.5 m. Behind the drain triangle is an oblique barrel. View of the rapids on the left bank.

48. Threshold. A chaotic accumulation of shafts and barrels. Shafts up to 2.5 m. The passage is closer to the right bank. View along the left bank.

49. The most powerful rapid, 300 m. The rapid comes after the right turn of the river. The width is about 150 m. The right bank is rocky and steep, the left bank is a coarse rocky placer. It is better to view along the left bank. There is a large drop of water in the threshold. The bulk of the water passes under the right bank. Throughout the entire 300 m there are huge barrels, shafts, and drains from underwater rocks. In the pile of shafts and barrels, no system is visible, the shafts are up to 4 m.

50 - 54. Simple shifters with shafts up to 1 m. Passage through the center.

55. The threshold is immediately after the rift 54. The stream at the turn goes under the left bank. Shiver 54 and threshold 55 go through in one step, the entrance is in the center, and then go gradually to the left, so that at the exit from threshold 55 the drain passes on the left side, and then crosses the stream and goes to the right.

56 - 57. Shivers of different types.

95. Long shivera. Enter 30 m from the left bank, leaving a stone slightly protruding from the water, then go to the right towards the center.

96 - 100. Shivers. Walk through the center. The right bank is a rocky wall, covered with forest on top. It gradually decreases as the rafting progresses. Here the river even has slight pressure. The transitions become shorter. There are good parking places at the mouths of the Boime and Zhalyu rivers. In the Zhalyu River, even for these places, the water is surprisingly clean and transparent. Up the Zhal there is a miniature canyon with good holes in which taimen grow.

101 - 117. Simple shivers.

118. Before rift 118, the river makes a sharp right turn. Around the bend on the left is a cliff, in front of it is a stream. Then Shivera 118 begins, at the end of which the Kodarni River flows into Tsipa. Opposite the stream you need to moor to the left bank to explore the last rapids of Tsipa.

119. Threshold. Located on a sharp left turn. The right bank is a wall.

The left one is gentle, composed of large blocks. Under the right bank there is a powerful step with a fault up to 3 m high. Behind the fault there is a steep reverse swell, followed by standing swells, frequent and steep. In the center of the river there is a powerful tongue of drainage, but entering it is difficult, because... 5 m above the tongue there is a pouring stone, which must be bypassed on the right, and this is dangerous, because the water falls to the right, towards the waterfall.

Further, for almost 150 km to the mouth, the river becomes fuller and calmer. Although there are 56 obstacles on this section, these are either light degenerate shivers or simple riffles. The banks are becoming calmer. The river drop is insignificant - about 1 m per km. The average speed drops to 6 km/h. The width of the channel is 150-200 m. Pine and birch trees appear along the banks. There are black currants and hawthorns.

Before the Tsipa flows into the Vitim River, the banks rise again. The red-brown rocks covered with forest are very beautiful. In places where Tsipa winds between screes, 30 km before the mouth, pine, birch, aspen, and rowan begin to predominate. Lots of good parking spots. It's nice to sail here. And here, finally, is the mouth of the Tsipa. The arrow at the confluence of Tsipa and Vitim looks very majestic. This is a narrow rocky ridge with almost vertical walls. The color of the water changes dramatically - from green to almost black.

The banks of Vitim are significantly higher.

Speed ​​6-7 km/h. Vitim is much fuller. In the first kilometers along Vitim there are several robberies, in the channels of which the speed increases and gentle riffles and pressures appear. Then the rocks part and the river emerges into the wide Bambui basin, where Vitim divides into many branches. In order not to lose your bearings, you should go closer to the right bank. Despite the fact that the banks here are flat, it is not easy to find a parking place, because... The shores are entirely rocky. A strong headwind is possible in the basin, making rafting difficult.

After the confluence of the Bambuika River on the left, Vitim enters the breakthrough of the South Muya Range. Vitim's shifts and rolls begin again. Among them, the Tuldun Shiver stands out. It is located on a sharp right turn of the river. The shaft is up to 1.5 m. At the exit the pile is on the right bank. On the shore, on a very characteristic depression among the rocks, there is the former village of Promising Spit. Further, the banks rise even more and become very steep. Parking space is difficult to find. The blessed shivera makes itself felt with a strong noise that can be heard even before the right turn. After Ivanovskaya and several more simple shivers, Vitim leaves the mountains, where the BAM railway bridge and the village of Vitim on the left bank are immediately visible. The mooring site is visible from the remains of catamarans and rafts. It's a 15-minute walk to the station.

(mouth of the Vitim River - Lena River)

FISHING REPORT ON REAM CIPA - VITIM

On the third of August we set off further and an hour later we fell into Tsipa. The weather is excellent - the heat is below 30, the water has subsided, the landscapes are pleasing to the eye. The dragonflies loitering over the water are trying to set up an alternate airfield on our boat, and I have nothing better to do, trying to capture them on film from the minimum possible distance. At the first tributary, an unprecedented miracle of nature awaited us - a huge number of green grasshoppers, methodically moving along the bank downstream. It was like a grandiose migration of “peoples” that nothing could stop. They overcame the tributary they encountered along the way in the following way: they jumped into the water, were carried down by the current, washed to the shore, where they climbed out and moved on. They stuck an even layer on our catamaran and when we tried to remove them from there they tried to bite our fingers hard - apparently they wanted to take advantage of the free transport. Our walk along the shore was accompanied by the crunch of grasshoppers being crushed. But thanks to them, excellent fishing awaited us here: it seemed that the fish for such luxurious food had gathered from several kilometers of the river. In this place, fifty lenks were caught in a day. Our honorary member Yura Fadeev “made” us, young and inexperienced, catch “without noise and dust” a four-kilogram taimen. I was less fortunate: a huge taimen broke the hook of the spoon and, arching its back, walked away. The next morning, Seryoga Demenshin tried to catch him, but was also unsuccessful: the fish took it and “dropped” Sergei, who slipped on the wet stones, into the river. And she left, leaving the fisherman alone with his spinning rod broken on the rocks. On this nameless tributary we began salting fish for future use to take home, and for dinner there was a cool fish soup of 50 (or maybe less, how many went into the cauldron) heads, in which there was a spoon, and almost a hundred looked at us sad eyes. Well, for a snack, as always, salted salt and fish marinade. And all this, of course, with alcohol diluted in Aqua Mineral from a nearby stream.

Zharek no longer had any strength to eat. In general, we stood here until lunch the next day, when the fish had already stopped biting (apparently it was over), and after lunch we set off, overtaking those same grasshoppers. A motorboat passed by upstream, climbing the river very, very slowly. At the same time, one of the two hunters accompanying her was forced to walk along the shore. Well, the river decided to punish us, or rather, me, for the immodest destruction of fish resources. Namely, after swimming 7 kilometers, I suddenly discover with horror that I forgot the spinning rod at the last stop, and since it was standing a little further from the rest of the junk, near the bushes, no one noticed it when loading the catamaran. I had to chase him through the forest 7 km there and 7 km back. Moreover, the rain was completely inappropriate. I spent 3 hours on this, and as a result, the next stop turned out to be forced, and, as a result, without fishing. But in the evening we celebrated the return of the spinning rod in a human way, and since I had only one and all my taimen were still ahead, I was the most pleased that evening. Although Oleg, for example, admitted that he would never run 14 km through a windfall, in the rain because of the spinning rod.


I must say that in the future we pampered ourselves with an abundance of fish dishes almost every day (and not a single dinner was complete without salted salt), because there is a lot of fish in the river, it is caught in almost every tributary. Based on this, the order of movement was developed: moving under the motor to the next tributary, fishing reconnaissance, stopping either for the night or for lunch, and if there is no fish - for example, the “competitors” are ahead - we move on. In especially picturesque and fishy places, we had days with a bathhouse and a festive dinner, including fish in different types, pies with mushrooms or berries, blueberry compote. Based on this, the layout was terribly economical, although pasture was already provided for. But we didn’t expect that there would be plenty of fish almost every day. Towards the end of the trip, they began to hang the salted fish to dry on specially constructed trestles in the middle of the catamaran (to make the luggage lighter on the way back), and to smoke them during the days off. We decided that next time we should take some kind of smokehouse with us, because we were tired of making it out of improvised means.
The nature, it should be noted, is very beautiful in these places. There were absolutely heavenly spots at the mouths of tributaries. For example, sand dunes near the blue lagoon on a tributary with the beautiful name Zhalyu. There is practically no local population, we met aborigines-hunters a couple of times - that’s all. There are also few tourists, in total we met 4 groups. Everyone looked with surprise at our ship under the engine with a fan of protruding spinning rods, “tourists” from Perm lying on the deck and balyks hanging for drying. By the end of the hike, we realized that to be completely happy, we didn’t have enough sun loungers, so that if we were to relax, then it would be in comfort.

So, from tributary to tributary, on August 9 we reached Vitim. Contrary to our assumptions - the river is still considered navigable - the fish in Vitim has not decreased at all compared to Tsipa. Again, at each tributary or stream, we combed the mouth with spoons and almost always caught from 1 to 10 lenok and taimen. Surprisingly, during the entire trip we caught only one grayling - apparently it all rose to the upper reaches of the tributaries. The only section that we passed without stopping was the Bambui Basin, where Vitim floods for almost a kilometer. A couple of days later we reached the mouth of Tulduni. This place is also called the Promising Spit. We decided to stop here for a day, the last of this trip, since there was very little left to go, and the place turned out to be gorgeous. Amazingly blue water flows out of Tulduni, and Mount Shaman rises opposite. Immediately behind the mouth, a long and wide spit of large bulges begins, moving along which you have to jump from one stone to another. At the end of it there were several sand lenses, on which we settled down. The entire next day was spent smoking fish and setting up a bathhouse, fishing and swimming in between (since it was very hot). In the evening there was a bathhouse - it turned out to be very hot, because they heated for a long time. After the bath there is a final banquet with the eating of the remaining food surprises and the ritual burning of worn-out clothes. Here my friends went a little overboard and secretly burned my Chinese slippers, in which I still had to get to the train, and I only noticed this when suspiciously black smoke came out of the fire. In general, we had some fun for the last time...

The next morning we walked the remaining 20 kilometers, where we met several shivers, we had a good swing on one of them, and by lunchtime we were at BAM. The journey has come to an end. At the Taksimo station, besides us, several other groups gathered, some of which were just starting out on the routes. Here we all immediately became acquainted and began to celebrate the successful completion of our trips in the station bar, while sharing our fishing experiences and showing off our catches to each other. Everyone looked with envy at our 20-liter can of salted fish. From a group of Muscovites we learned about an interesting route along the Kalar, a tributary of the Vitim, and decided to go there next time. In addition, we had a pleasant meeting with the participants of the first Komsomol landing, who were celebrating the 25th anniversary of the landing on the BAM. All day long, laughter, jokes, memories, tourist and Bamov songs accompanied by accordion and guitar were heard at the station. True, not all passengers liked it, and some even called the police to restore order. But, fortunately, everything worked out and the next day, tired but happy, we boarded the Tynda-Moscow train with difficulty and 3 days later we were in Perm. One trip has barely ended, and we again live in anticipation of the next one.
See you again on the blue roads of Transbaikalia!

SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:

http://www.turizmvnn.ru/

http://zabtur.ru/

http://www.skitalets.ru/

Alexander Lesnyansky

Nikolay Zavodsky

http://www.photosight.ru/

19 days, XXX kilometers.

Vitim is a large right tributary of the Lena River, one of the wildest and most unique rivers in Eastern Siberia. The total length of the river is 1978 km. It is born on the eastern slopes of the Ikat ridge. In the upper reaches it is called Vitimkan. Translated from Evenki, “kan” means small, i.e. Little Vitim. Vitim itself is formed at the confluence of the Vitimkan with the China River, flowing from the slopes of the Tsipikansky massif. Vitim on the way to the Lena, skirting the Vitim Plateau and crosswise crossing the ridges of the Stanovoi Highlands, sharply changes the direction of the flow several times: north-eastern - in the very upper reaches, southern - after the confluence of the Chyna, eastern - after the confluence with the Zaza River; Below the confluence of the Karenga, the river flows north (with some deviations). Vitim is a technically complex river, with a diverse set of natural obstacles. The difficulties of sailing along it are caused by the huge mass of water that rushes during summer-autumn rain floods. They follow the Vitim one after another, coming first from the right, sometimes from the left along its large tributaries. It is rare for a flood to cover several tributaries at once. It is safe to say that sailing on a river like the Vitim is more interesting than on many other rivers that have large specific falls.
According to its physical and geographical characteristics, Vitim can be divided into the following areas:
  • origins: the village of Romanovka (the mouth of the Kholoy River) (501 km);
  • upper reaches: Romanovka village - mouth of the Karenga River (411 km);
  • middle course: the mouth of Karenga - the city of Bodaibo (776 km);
  • lower reaches: Bodaibo - mouth (290 km).
The main interest for water tourists is the upper and middle reaches of the Vitim. For a more detailed acquaintance with the river and establishing the boundaries where changes in its character occur, the river can be divided, depending on the water situation and navigation conditions, into several sections:
Upstream: 1) the village of Romanovka - the mouth of the Ingur River; 2) the mouth of the Ingura - the mouth of the Karenga River; middle course: 1) the mouth of the Karenga - the mouth of the Bambuika River; 2) the mouth of Bambuika - Paramsky threshold; 3) Paramsky threshold - Delyun-Oronsky threshold; 4) Delyun-Oronsky threshold - the city of Bodaibo.
As for the section from the source to the village of Romanovka, the Vitim here has the character of a small mountain river, the regime of which entirely depends on the summer-autumn rains. The total fall on the site is 835 m, which gives an average slope of about 2 m/km. The river is very narrow and low-water. The riverbed is constrained by steep mountain slopes, often completely covered with scree. Lots of pressure cliffs. The rock ridges crossing the river form rapids, and the scatterings of stones in the riverbed form small riffles and rifts.
From the confluence of the Vitimkana and the Chyna in Vitim there is enough water to sail in kayaks or inflatable vessels. But using this entire area for tourist travel is very problematic due to the difficulties of getting into the upper reaches of the river and the high probability of prolonged low water.
Near the village of Romanovka, Vitim, approaching the spurs of the Yablonovy Ridge, turns to the northeast and becomes calmer. From here it is already a reliable river for rafting on any tourist boats.
Here and further, the numbers in brackets after the name of the tributary indicate the approximate kilometers from the mouth of the main river.
The village of Romanovka - the mouth of the Ingur River (left tributary - 1359 km) - 118.
For the first 35 km, tourists encounter only small rocky rifts and small rifts. The banks slope steeply to the water. There are many picturesque rock cliffs. The river flows in one channel, without islands. Width 80 - 100 m. You must swim along the main stream all the time.
Over the next 25 km, the saturation of rifts increases. The passages among the stones become narrower, and in some places it is completely impossible to understand their labyrinth. Such shivers are dangerous for kayaks, catamarans and inflatable boats; there is no threat to people here. You can always conduct wiring along the shore. For rafts, this area is impassable at low water (low water here refers to flows at horizons lying 1.5 m or more below the level at which rafting of carbaz begins).
In deep water, with horizons close to raftable, the river is transformed. Small and simple shivers become stormy and dangerous. Their speeds reach 15 - 17 km/h.
Next come the 25 most difficult kilometers of this section of Vitim. There are 4 relatively complex shivers located here.
The first of them is Zhiktondinskaya (sh-1), about 2 km long. Consists of two ridges of stones. They are spaced freely, and the passage is easy to determine. Following it, after 4 km, comes the Marektinskaya Shivera (sh-2), which occupies a total of about 5 km. It is formed by three ridges of stones crossing the riverbed from bank to bank. In low water the waves are no more than 0.5 m. 5 km from the last ridge, behind a sharp left turn of the river there is a third, perhaps the most unpleasant because of the many stones, Kurluktinskaya rift (sh-3). Chaotically cluttering the riverbed, they form real labyrinths, movement through which requires constant attention and caution. The site ends with several ridges of the Ingur Shiver (sh-4), lying right in the area of ​​​​the mouth of the Ingur.
This entire series is overcome mainly along the main stream. To sail through the Kurlukta Shivera, preliminary reconnaissance is necessary. In addition to those listed, in this area there are many more small rifts ranging from 100 to 1000 m in length, which can be climbed immediately, although impacts and landings on rocks are possible. All rifts, as a rule, are separated from each other by deep, motionless reaches, where swimming slows down sharply.
For the described section of Vitim, it is practically impossible to give a recipe for passing natural obstacles. All of them are so sensitive to horizon fluctuations that the water situation on the rifts can change within a few hours.
Each group will have to outline options and tactics for overcoming site obstacles independently, depending on specific conditions. Let us only note that in deep water, with horizons close to the raftable one, and even more so exceeding it, the difficulty of swimming increases, and the rifts along the main stream become impassable.
In total, there are 32 rifts of different values ​​and 11 riffles on the site.
The mouth of the Ingura - the mouth of the Karenga River (right tributary - 1066 km) - 293 km.
Below the mouth of the Ingur there is a sharp decrease in the fall of the river bottom. Vitim becomes deeper and calmer. For the first 35 km the coastline is still very picturesque and wild.
The river has only rapids and a few small shifts and rifts that do not need a special description.
Then there is almost 25 km of continuous stretch, which has a smooth, calm current with speeds of up to 5 km/h. Its surface is only rippled with small rapids in a few places. Plyos ends with the first island robbery. In the main right channel, which stretches for almost 4 km, there is the longest Purikonsky riffle. It is easy to walk along the main stream, despite the abundance of protruding stones.
Below the riffle the stretch begins again, stretching for 25 km. There are islands twice in the channel. Further on for about 50 km there are only small rifts and small riffles in the river.
Approximately 15 km before the mouth of the right tributary of the Khulugli, a 50-kilometer section of the river begins, occupied by a series of 6 shivers under the general name "Shipishki" ("Shipishka" - in local - rose hips; according to another version, this name arose from the comparison - "hiss like cats"). The first 5 are Small (w-5-9), and the 6th is Big Shipishka (w-10). All 5 small rifts at low horizons are rocky and stormy, but more abundant in water than the previous ones. The flow speed is insignificant, and therefore the main danger is posed by surface and underwater stones scattered along the pebble bed. To pass the Small Spikes, it is enough to inspect them from the water to outline the path.
The last of this series, the Bolshaya Shipishka shivere, is located immediately after the left turn of the river in front of the former Shipishka mine. It is about 1 km long and is formed by two ridges of stones. The second one is the most difficult to pass. Here, due to the local increase in the fall and, as a consequence, the increase in speeds, there is very strong excitement. The standing waves, although gentle, reach a height of 1 m. The Shivera is overcome along the main stream, which runs under the right bank. It is well defined. Most of the stones, even at low horizons, are filled with water, which makes swimming easier.
Below the mine, for several kilometers there are rifts formed from dredge workings.
The last 100 km, up to the mouth of Karenga, Vitim has no serious obstacles. There are only rifts along the way. In total there are 14 rifts and 32 rifts in this section.
The section of the upper reaches of the river ends here. Vitim rushes to the north.
The mouth of Karenga - the mouth of the Bambuika River (left tributary - 804 km) - 262 km.
Just past the mouth of the Karenga, the banks rise. However, the mountains reach the water only after 30 km. From here, along the river, sometimes on the right, sometimes on the left, there are steep cliffs, as if cut off by the river at the turns. Some cliffs stretch for kilometers. The opposite shore in such places is flat and pebbly. There are many islands in the channel, which, as a rule, are scattered in groups. They are low, covered with forest, with large boulder headboards, less often bare - pebble. On the islands, the width of the river increases from 200 - 250 m to 400 m. At low waters, small side channels dry up in the upper part, and long and deep backwaters, called kuryas on Vitim, form along the islands.
There are no difficult obstacles on this section of the river. You can swim through it all while scouting from the water. Complications arise only when mooring to the shore. This cannot be done everywhere. Coastal bushes, rocky cliffs, and isolated stones get in the way. The islands are most convenient for short stops and bivouacs.
When the water is very low, rafting is complicated by rocks that “grow” on rifts and rifts, as well as coastal bullheads and sharp turns that produce a reflected wave.
At high horizons, the river is a continuous rapid flow with speeds from 15 to 18 km/h. In the channels near the islands to which the concentrated fall is confined, strong waves arise with risers of up to 0.75.
It is important to note that if up to the mouth of the Karenga there were frequent riffles and riffles and the main danger was the possibility of “pushing through” on the rocks or sitting on one of the half-submerged stone “huts”, then lower down on the river standing shafts begin to dominate. The river acquires unusual power. A characteristic phenomenon the middle reaches of the Vitim become a catch - water cycles from reverse flow in places of deep concavities of the banks or after rifts and rifts on the sides of their drains.
Sailing along the Middle Vitim requires constant vigilance, as the rapid current and cold water Any, even the smallest, accident can turn into an incident with very serious consequences.
At this point, the Vitim takes part in its largest tributaries: the right - Kalakan (941 km), Kalar (885 km) and the left - Tsipu (851 km from the mouth).
25 km below the mouth of Tsipa, the mountains retreat from the river, the valley expands and Vitim opens into the Bambui Basin. Now, on both sides, low swampy banks with a ledge of 1.5 - 2 m break off to the water. The river, maintaining a fast flow, acquires a calm character. Walking around the pebble spits, she makes smooth, wide curves. Many low forested islands. Almost each of them develops a small roll.
Another 22 km - and the wide (up to 4 km) Bambuika valley approaches on the left. Not far from its mouth is the village of Bambuika.
In total there are 15 rifts and 42 rifts in this section.
The mouth of Bambuika - Paramsky threshold (655 km) - 149 km.
Below the mouth of the Bambuika, the Vitim flows through the basin for about l12 km. The river is wide, with a vigorous but calm current. The banks are low and forested. Many islands.
Then the mountains closing the basin from the north again come close to the water: Vitim enters the boundaries of the South Muya Range. Rocks squeeze a powerful, high-water river up to 150 - 200 m. The valley takes on the appearance of a dark, deep gorge, the steep, steep banks of which are completely covered with screes of destroyed rocks. Vitim boils and foams on the stones, which in many places have blocked the riverbed. The river has this character throughout the entire 50-kilometer section of the ridge crossing.
This is the most difficult part of Vitim for swimming, where tourists will have to overcome 8 of the most stormy and dangerous rifts. The nature of the water situation there depends entirely on the water level in the river and can change dramatically even within a day. Due to its structure and conditions of passage, each of the shivers requires a special approach. But they all have one common quality - the higher the water level, the easier it is to bypass the main waves in the main stream, through which there is no passage for tourist ships. At low water, when the mass of stones composing the riverbed is exposed and the waves increase, some of the rifts must be enclosed.
8 km after Vitim enters the Yuzhno-Muysky ridge, the first rift on the river is the Big Spit (sh-11), about 600 m long. Here a huge pebble-boulder spit juts into the riverbed, bending around which the river makes a large loop to the right. The shiver is located at the very apex of the turn. It has a clear passage from stones in the middle of the stream even in low water. At high levels, the rift turns into a rapid.
After 2 km, the second rift is the Shirokaya River (sh-12), 200 - 250 m long. It is located at the very end of the right-bank pebble spit before narrowing. In deep water it is almost invisible. Shivera Bolshaya Spit and Shirokaya Rechka are the easiest in this section.
After 5 km, the next rift is Bolshaya, or Verkhnyaya Tuzalinskaya (sh-13). It belongs to the six most powerful Vitim shivers, which have gained sad fame among rafters and the local population.
Shivera is located on a small left bend in the river. In middle water, Vitim here is about 150 m wide. On the right side there is a steep, high bank. The stream, reflected from the rocky ledges, creates strong excitement along it. It gradually rolls in damping shafts across the entire width of the river. The left bank is a large pebble and boulder spit, on which the stream strongly pushes. When the water recedes, many stones - “huts” - are exposed in the riverbed. They cut through the flow, creating high, up to 0.5 m, oblique standing waves and making swimming conditions even more difficult.
The length of a particularly dangerous section is about 1 km. When passing the rift, you must try to cling to the left bank, being careful, however, of the pile-up on the coastal stones. The higher the water level, the fewer stones sticking out of it, the further it is possible to move away from the channel “huts” and the excitement caused by the rocks of the right bank, the easier it is to pass the rift.
After 4 km of relatively calm sailing there is the Malaya or Nizhnyaya Tuzalinskaya rift (sh-14). In character, she is an exact copy of her “big sister,” only in a mirror image. Here there is a slight turn to the right, a steep rocky bank is on the left, and a pebble spit on the right. In low water, the spit, jutting into the river, squeezes it up to 100 m. In the riverbed, many randomly scattered stone blocks protrude from the water. The waves are weaker than on Bolshaya Tuzalinskaya. The length of the rift is 600 m. It must be passed along the pebble spit of the right bank. To do this, after leaving the previous shiver, you need to cross Vitim in advance. It is impossible to completely avoid anxiety. Already at the exit you will have to overcome several low standing waves running from the shore to the middle.
Over the next 6 km, the speed of the Vitim current is 10 - 12 km/h. The entire surface of the river, like pockmarks, is strewn with water “outbursts”. From these mounds, a quarter of a meter high and 2 to 3 m in diameter, you can get an idea of ​​the enormous power lurking behind the apparent calm of the river. The mosaic of “outbursts” is changing all the time. The rising water with irresistible force throws the tourist boat to the right and then to the left.
It is hopeless to fight its influence on the course, and there is nothing else left to do but act in accordance with the will of the flow, taking it as an ally.
The river is sandwiched on both sides by steep mountain slopes. The width is only 100 - 120 m. A strong wind almost always blows here. If it is oncoming, then swimming becomes very difficult, especially for inflatable vessels. Even on kayaks it is difficult to maintain the desired course.
The “calm” water ends at the mouth of the Tuldun River (left tributary), which flows into Vitim in two branches immediately after a sharp turn to the right. 0.5 km below, opposite the old mine of the Promising Spit, the Tuldunskaya shaver (sh-15) thunders. Its length is about 1.5 km.
The right bank along the entire length of the rift is continuous rocky cliffs. Under them, occupying about a third of the river, the bulk of the water flows and strong waves are formed with large foamy standing waves up to 1.5 m high. The waves are caused by several bottom ridges of bedrock, protruding into the river almost to the middle. There is no passage for any tourist boats on the right side of the river.
On the other side, a huge pebble-boulder spit protrudes far into the channel, the half-submerged and underwater stones of which create a complex water situation on the left side of the stream. But it is much less dangerous than on the right. At low and medium water levels, the rift passes close to the left bank, along the edge of the pebble spit. To determine this path, reconnaissance is required. For this purpose, you need to land on the left bank immediately beyond the mouth of Tulduni, at the beginning of the boulder spit.
As water horizons rise, the picture changes somewhat. While the elements continue to rage under the right bank, in the center of the channel the protruding and half-submerged stones protruding from the water go under the water, and the flow levels out here. But near the left bank spit the excitement intensifies. The flow begins to be reflected from the boulders, forming large, up to 0.5 - 0.7 m, oblique standing shafts.
In addition, if the flood also flows along Tulduni, then the swollen river, flowing into Vitim, cuts it with a powerful directed flow by almost a third of its width, which complicates the approach and mooring to the beginning of the spit. Therefore, with high water levels, it is preferable to pass the Tuldun Shivera in the middle of the river, although you will have to jump over the waves.
After 5 km, on a sharp right turn, the most dangerous, according to local standards, rift is located - Sivak (sh-16). Such fame was created for it by rafters who lost their cargo and sometimes their lives here for many decades. From the point of view of piloting large ships and rafts, this is indeed true. The Sivak shivera is the shallowest (depth up to 1 m) and clogged with stones.
The fairway is winding. Speeds during floods reach 18 - 20 km/h. Its length is about 1.5 km. For tourist ships that allow a roundabout maneuver past the main waves, passing the Sivak rift is no more difficult than the Tuldun rift.
The left bank of Vitim in this place is rocky and steep, the right bank is a low pebble spit, flooded as the water level rises. The main flow goes through the center, where the main excitement is concentrated.
Already into the middle water, a wide passage opens on the right side, calm, but shallow and heavily clogged with stones. The only way here is through the rift. To get to it, you need to immediately cross the river after Tulduni and walk along the right bank. The higher the water horizons, the further you can move away from the disturbances of the main jet going in the middle, the easier it is to pass the rift. But it is not possible to completely avoid it, since the terminal shafts occupy the entire river bed from bank to bank.
After 3 km, Vitim makes a sharp, almost 90º, turn to the right. Its waters, reflecting from the steep cliff of a high char on the left bank, rush to the next rift - Blagodatnaya, or Taksimskaya (sh-17), located 1.5 km around the bend. In front of her, Vitim widens somewhat, then rushes forward in a frantic dance of waves.
The left bank of the river is rocky, steep, with several “spurs” - projections of bedrock into the river, from which a whole series of obliquely running standing shafts are formed. Exactly the same shafts extend from the right bank, where huge slabs of bedrock emerge to the surface.
Shivera is deceptive. At the entrance, the middle is completely clear and calm. But after just 800 m, the oblique swells, reflected from the banks, converge, colliding with their manes, raising fountains of spray and foam. In this chaos of waves, the height of which reaches 1 - 1.5 m, it is easy for a kayak to capsize.
In deep water, the rift is overcome under the right bank above the flooded spit. Swimming is relatively easy, despite the abundance of rocks. At low horizons, you need to go in the same place, but the head part of the rift - 5 ridges of boulders - will have to be enclosed. The carryover is only 350 - 400 m. However, the path on wet and slippery stones is difficult, and this operation takes 3 - 4 hours.
Shivera Blagodatnaya requires mandatory reconnaissance. The river flows restlessly for 2.5 km, and then tourists are greeted by the last one at the section where Vitim crosses the South Muisky ridge, the Ivanovskaya Shive (sh-18).
The right bank here is high and steep, the left bank is low and pebbly. The main stream flows under the right bank. It's pretty quiet on the left. The length of the beam is 600 m. In low water it is walked, like all the previous ones, along a pebble spit. In the big one, all the stones are flooded, and the rift turns into a rapid. It is not folded for swimming, and an experienced group can navigate it on the move.
After 3 km the surrounding mountains, reaching greatest height, suddenly break off, and Vitim pours out of a narrow canyon-like gorge into the expanse of the Muya Basin. After the constant darkness that reigned over the roaring river, a sea of ​​light and silence amazes the traveler.
For 9 km the river flows in one gradually widening channel, then breaks into three large independent branches. The main - navigable - is the middle channel. Its width is 1200 m.
The left one, up to 0.5 km wide, is called Stary Vitim and stretches parallel to the main one for almost 20 km, broken up by numerous islands. A third channel, about 10 km long, branches off to the right of the main channel. It's shallow. The total flood of Vitim in the lowland reaches 5000 m.
The Muya Basin is relatively densely populated. There are several villages here. The main ones are: Tolmachevakiy - a base for rafters and logging workers, Muya - a collective farm and airfield, Nelyaty - a former warehouse for delivering goods to Chara. The first two are located on the left bank of the Vitim, near the mouth of the Muya, the last - on the right, 20 km down the river. The remaining villages - Spitsyno, Dagobchan, Bargalino and Paramskoye - are small, with only a few houses. In the Muya Basin you see with your own eyes what the border of time zones is, which here passes through Vitim. On the right bank of the river it is always an hour later than on the left. If you are late for the cinema in Nelyaty, then you may well be in time for the same show in Muya.
From the mouth of the Muya (left tributary - 716 km) Vitim makes a huge, more than 20 km, swim-out loop to the right. The flow slows down completely and becomes invisible. The river widens, in some places up to 1.5 km. The village of Nelyaty is located at the exit from this loop on a high sandbank, overgrown with young pine trees, and is clearly visible from afar. The villages of Muya and Tolmachevsky are not visible from the main channel, as they are located somewhat away from the river. The entire Muya extension of the river valley is a section of backwater from the Paramsky threshold. It is like the narrow neck of a huge “bottle”, which is filled with three rivers - Vidim, Muya and Kuanda (Konda). During floods this happens very quickly. And the water leaves much more slowly, flowing out only into a narrow gap in the threshold. This causes frequent floods in the Muya Basin with a large rise in water levels.

Hiking plan by day:

  1. Bus Chara - village. Conda, catamaran collection
  2. Konda River, rafting to the mouth of the Kumka River
  3. rafting to the mouth of the Zhipkosh River
  4. rafting to the Vitim River
  5. rafting to the mouth of the Talaya River
  6. rafting to the mouth of the Iskhan River
  7. day
  8. rafting to the mouth of the Yantala River
  9. rafting to the mouth of the Khulugli River
  10. rafting to the mouth of the Kharitonovka River
  11. rafting to the mouth of the Bereya River
  12. rafting to the mouth of the Karenga River
  13. rafting to the mouth of the Kalakan River
  14. rafting to the mouth of the Kalar River
  15. rafting to the mouth of the Bambuika River
  16. rafting to the mouth of the Taksimo River
  17. rafting to the BAM track
  18. spare day in case of rain, flood, unfavorable conditions for rafting
  19. departure from Vitim station by local train to Taksimo/Hani station
Terms and prices excluding travel:

Rafting on the Vitim River (Ugryum - river )

14 days (water route) on catamarans. 3 category of complexity. Length 750km

Route No. 1

Includes a section of the river from the village. Romanovka, to the village of Vitim. (BAM)

The route passes through a sparsely populated taiga region. Throughout the route, there are often rapids and shivers (on average there is a rapid or shiver at 3 km)

1 day. Bus trip from Chita to the village. Romanovka (150 km.). Accommodation in tents.

Day 2. Getting to know the surrounding area. Exit to the river on catamarans at 14:00. Overnight 20 km from Romanovka, near the side river Apharok. Those interested can go fishing with spinning rods (lenok, grayling, perch...)

Day 3. During the day, passing several rapids. At the end of the day, stop near the Konda River.

Day 4 Passing the section of the river to the “Church”. This is the name of the rock that stands in the middle of the Vitim River bed. Parking for the night at the “Church”. Nearby is the site of an ancient man. At the mouth of the Yumurchen River, you can go fishing with a spinning rod.

Day 5 At the end of the day, the group spends the night in the village of Krasny Yar.

Day 6 All day in more than one settlement. Overnight at Pnev's winter hut.

Day 7 Passing a section of the river to the side river Berey.

Day 8. After lunch, stop at the mouth of the Karenga River. Midday. Those interested can go to the village (3 km) and listen tragic story about the girl Galina.

Day 9 Passage of the river section to the Delingde River

Day 10 All day long taiga beauty. Overnight at the Kalakan weather station (tourist camp bathhouse with swimming in Vitim).

Day 11 After passing the Tsypa River, the current intensifies. Immediately after Tsypa there is overnight parking.

Day 12 At the end of the day, stop at the foot of Shaman Mountain.

Day 13 Climbing Shaman Mountain. From the mountain, the taiga expanses and winding Vitim are clearly visible. After lunch, continue the route along Vitim. At the end of the day, the village. Vitim (BAM).

Day 14 Departure by train to Taksimo station.

Children over 14 years of age are allowed on the Vitim River route only with adult close relatives who bear full responsibility for them.

Daily tent camps are set up by tourists. Along the route, tourists spend the night in four-person tents. Supplement for single occupancy 3000 rubles for the entire tour. Three hot meals a day on the route. All tourists take part in cooking on a first-come, first-served basis (exemption from cooking is possible for an additional fee). Collecting firewood is the responsibility of tourists... It is possible to exempt from rowing for the entire route.

Assembling and disassembling catamarans, carrying equipment from the train to the river and back, is the responsibility of tourists before arriving at the final station (home). It is possible to be exempt from assembling and disassembling catamarans and carrying things for an additional fee (3000 rub.. per person).

Tour cost per person (economy): 35,000 rubles. + travel and food.

The price of the tour includes: rental of rafting equipment - catamarans, group and personal equipment (tents, sleeping bags, polyurethane foam mats, awning, dry bags, life jackets, kitchen utensils, fire equipment, first aid kit, repair kit), instructor services