VERTOGRAD

SEVEN SIGNS BY WHICH IN Rus' A GIRL WAS DISTINGUISHED FROM A HUSBAND'S WIFE

By headdress

Down the line

By earrings

Along the spit

By ornament and color of clothing

Paneva and zapona

Up the skirt

By the wedding ring

In the old days, a headdress was the most significant and elegant item of a woman's costume. He could tell a lot about his owner - about her age, family and social status and even about whether she has children. About the most unusual headdresses of Russian women - in the material of the portal "Culture.RF".

In Rus', girls wore rather simple-shaped headbands and wreaths (crowns), leaving the crown and braid open. On the wedding day, the girl’s braid was unraveled and placed around her head, that is, “twisted.” From this ritual the expression “to entice a girl” was born, that is, to marry her to yourself.

The tradition of covering the head was based on the ancient idea that hair absorbs negative energy. The girl, however, could take risks by showing off her braid to potential suitors, but a bare-haired wife would bring shame and misfortune to the whole family.

Hair styled “woman-style” was covered with a cap that was pulled together at the back of the head - a povoinik or volosnik. On top they put on a headdress, which, unlike a girl’s, had a complex design. On average, such a garment consisted of four to ten removable parts.

HAT GEARS OF THE RUSSIAN SOUTH

The border between the Great Russian North and South ran through the territory of the modern Moscow region. Ethnographers include Vladimir and Tver in northern Rus', and Tula and Ryazan in southern Russia. Moscow itself was influenced by the cultural traditions of both regions.

Women's peasant costume in the southern regions was fundamentally different from the northern one. The agricultural south was more conservative. The peasants here generally lived poorer than in the Russian North, where trade with foreign merchants was active.

Until the beginning of the 20th century, in southern Russian villages they wore oldest type Russian costume - a checkered ponyova (a waist-length garment like a skirt) and a long shirt, the decorated hem of which peeked out from under the ponyova.

The silhouette of the southern Russian outfit resembled a barrel; it was combined with magpies and kichkas - headdresses distinguished by a variety of styles and complexity of design.

KIKA HORNED

The word “kika” comes from the Old Slavonic “kyka” - “hair”. This is one of the oldest headdresses, which dates back to the images of female pagan deities. In the minds of the Slavs, horns were a symbol of fertility, so only a “manly woman” could wear them.

In most regions, a woman received the right to wear a horned pussy after the birth of her first child. They wore a kika both on weekdays and on holidays. To hold the massive headdress (the horns could reach 20–30 centimeters in height), the woman had to raise her head high. This is how the word “boast” appeared - to walk with your nose in the air.

The clergy actively fought against pagan paraphernalia: women were forbidden to attend church wearing horned kicks. TO early XIX century, this headdress practically disappeared from use, but in the Ryazan province it was worn until the twentieth century. Even the ditty has been preserved:

Ryazan horns

I will never quit.

I will eat only chaff,

But I won’t throw my horns!

KIKA HOOF-SHAPED

"Human" was first mentioned in a document of 1328. Presumably, at this time women were already wearing all sorts of derivatives of the horned kick - in the form of a bowler hat, a shoulder blade, a roller. It grew from a horned and kitty in the form of a hoof or horseshoe.

The solid headband (forehead) was covered with richly decorated material, often embroidered with gold. It was attached over the “cap” using a cord or ribbons tied around the head. Like a horseshoe suspended above front door, this dress was designed to protect against the evil eye. All married women wore it on holidays.

Until the 1950s, such “hooves” could be seen at village weddings in the Voronezh region. Against the background of black and white - the main colors of Voronezh women's costume - the gold-embroidered kika looked like the most expensive decoration. Many hoof-shaped kicks from the 19th century have been preserved, collected in the territory from Lipetsk to Belgorod - this indicates their wide distribution in the Central Black Earth region.

SORAKA TULA

In different parts of Russia, the same headdress was called differently. Therefore, today experts cannot finally agree on what is considered a kick and what is considered a magpie. Confusion in terms, coupled with the great variety of Russian headdresses, has led to the fact that in literature the magpie often means one of the parts of the kika and, conversely, the kika is understood as an integral part of the magpie.

In a number of regions, from about the 17th century, the magpie existed as an independent complex headdress for a married woman. A striking example of this is the Tula magpie.

Justifying its “bird” name, the magpie was divided into side parts - wings and back - tail. The tail was made of pleated multi-colored ribbons sewn in a circle, which made it look like a peacock. Bright rosettes rhymed with the headdress, which were sewn onto the back of the ponya. Women wore this outfit on holidays, usually in the first two to three years after the wedding.

Almost all magpies of a similar cut kept in museums and personal collections were found on the territory of the Tula province.

HAT GEARS OF THE RUSSIAN NORTH

The basis of the northern women's costume was the sundress. It was first mentioned in the Nikon Chronicle of 1376. Initially, sundresses shortened like a caftan were worn by noble men. Only by the 17th century, the sundress acquired the familiar look and finally migrated into the women's wardrobe.

The word “kokoshnik” appears for the first time in documents of the 17th century. “Kokosh” in Old Russian meant “chicken”. The headdress probably got its name because of its resemblance to a chicken comb. It emphasized the triangular silhouette of the sundress.

According to one version, the kokoshnik appeared in Rus' under the influence of Byzantine costume. It was worn primarily by noble women.

After the reform of Peter I, who banned the wearing of traditional national costume among the nobility, sundresses and kokoshniks remained in the wardrobe of merchant women, bourgeois women, and peasant women, but in a more modest version.

During the same period, the kokoshnik, in combination with a sundress, penetrated into southern regions, where for a long time he remained the outfit of exclusively rich women. Kokoshniks were decorated much more richly than magpies and kiki: they were trimmed with pearls and bugles, brocade and velvet, galloon and lace.

COLLECTION (SAMSHURA, MORSHEN)

One of the most versatile headdresses of the 18th–19th centuries had many names and tailoring options. It was first mentioned in written sources of the 17th century as samshura (shamshura). Probably this word was formed from the verb “shamshit” or “shamkat” - to speak indistinctly, and in figuratively- “to crush, to reap.” IN explanatory dictionary Vladimir Dahl defined samshura as “the Vologda headdress of a married woman.”

All attire of this type was united by a gathered or “wrinkled” cap. A low morshen, similar to a cap, was part of a more casual costume. The tall one looked impressive, like a textbook kokoshnik, and was worn on holidays. The everyday collection was made from cheaper fabric, and a scarf was worn over it. Collection old woman could look like a simple black cap. The festive dresses of the young people were covered with braided ribbon and embroidered precious stones.

This type of kokoshnik came from the northern regions - Vologda, Arkhangelsk, Vyatka. He fell in love with women in Central Russia, ended up in Western Siberia, Transbaikalia, and Altai. Along with the subject, the word itself spread. In the 19th century, the name “samshura” began to be understood in different provinces different types headdress.

KOKOSHNIK PSKOV (SHISHAK)

The Pskov version of the kokoshnik - the shishak wedding headdress - had a classic silhouette in the shape of an elongated triangle. The cones that gave it its name symbolized fertility. There was a saying: “How many big shots, so many kids.” They were sewn onto the front of the cone, decorated with pearls. A pearl mesh was sewn along the bottom edge - underneath. Over the bump, the newlywed wore a white scarf embroidered with gold. One such kokoshnik cost from 2 to 7 thousand rubles in silver, therefore it was kept in the family as an heirloom, passed from mother to daughter.

The Pskov kokoshnik became most famous in the 18th–19th centuries. Particularly famous were the headdresses created by the craftswomen of the Toropets district of the Pskov province. That is why shishaki were often called Toropets kokoshniks. Many portraits of Toropchan women in pearl headdress, which glorified this region, have been preserved.

TVERSKY "HEEL"

The cylindrical heel was in fashion at the end of the 18th century and throughout the 19th century. This is one of the most original varieties of kokoshnik. They wore it on holidays, so they made it from silk, velvet, gold braid, and decorated it with stones. Under the “heel”, which looked like a small cap, a wide pearl bottom was worn. It covered the entire head, because the compact headdress itself only covered the top of the head. The “heel” was so common in the Tver province that it became a kind of “ business card» region.

Artists who worked with “Russian” themes had a particular weakness for him. Andrei Ryabushkin depicted a woman in a Tver kokoshnik in the painting “Sunday Day” (1889). The same dress is depicted in “Portrait of the Wife of the Merchant Obraztsov” (1830) by Alexei Venetsianov. Venetsianov also painted his wife Marfa Afanasyevna in the costume of a Tver merchant’s wife with the obligatory “heel” (1830).

TO end of the 19th century centuries throughout Russia, complex headdresses began to give way to shawls that resembled the ancient Russian scarf - ubrus. The very tradition of tying a scarf has been preserved since the Middle Ages, and during the heyday of industrial weaving it received a new life.

Factory-made shawls woven from high-quality, expensive threads were sold everywhere. According to the old tradition, married women wore scarves and shawls over the warrior, carefully covering their hair. The labor-intensive process of creating a unique headdress, which was passed down from generation to generation, has sunk into oblivion.

Do you know what women wore in Ancient Rus'? What was a man allowed to wear? What did commoners wear in Ancient Rus', and what did the boyars wear? For these and others no less interesting questions you will find the answers in the article.

What is the purpose of the shirt?

- “I know what the rationale is here,” we will say now, having learned the real reason one or another incident. But at the time Kievan Rus it meant something completely different. The fact is that clothes were very expensive back then, they took care of them, and in order for the shirt to serve the owner as long as possible, it was reinforced with a lining, that is, a backing, for strength. It can be assumed that this expression acquired an ironic connotation due to the fact that some poor people boasted of rich sewing, but they were given away by the inside, sewn from cheap fabric. After all, the clothes of Ancient Rus' served not only for insulation, but also to emphasize their social status. The shirt was of no small importance here. For the nobility this was underwear; for the poor it was often the only one, not counting ports and bast shoes. In addition, the commoner's shirt was much shorter so as not to restrict movement.

Evil eye ornament

The boyars did not work in the fields, so they could afford underwear that almost reached their knees. But regardless of whether you were poor or rich, your shirt had to have a belt. The word "unbelted" was used in literally, but had an equally negative connotation. In addition, ornamentation on this part of the clothing was very desirable. Its patterns protected against the evil eye and other troubles. Death was a frequent guest in peasant huts. Then “miserable” shirts came into use. White with white embroidery if parents died, and embroidered with black patterns if there was mourning for children. Each piece of clothing also had a ritual significance. When widows plowed the village, preventing it from such misfortunes as cholera or death of livestock, they were bare-haired, without shoes and in snow-white shirts without any decorations.

No matter what occasion the shirts were intended for, they did not have a collar. For the celebration it was replaced by the so-called necklace, which was fastened at the back with a button. This collar would go with any other clothing. And the type of shirt that has survived the longest is the kosovorotka. It appeared back in the 9th century, and was worn until the 20th century. A cloth with a small hole for the head and a cutout on the left side of the chest - that's all. Simple and practical.

The curtain is on the floor

Shirts were rarely worn separately. In the center and north of Rus' they wore a sundress on top, and in the south - a poneva. What is poneva? In Ancient Rus', it was a kind of skirt, only consisting not of one, but of three woolen or half-woolen panels, tied at the waist with a gashnik. This belt was a sign that the woman was married. The color of the poneva was dark, with a red or blue tint, and less often - black. On weekdays, they sewed braid or calico at the bottom, and on holidays they took out ponevs from the chests, the hems of which were decorated with as many colorful embroideries as possible.

Women in those days had a hard time in many ways. Clothing is no exception here. A feature of women's clothing in Ancient Rus' was that over all of the above they put on an apron, which was called a curtain, and the Russian costume was completed with a canvas, woolen or half-woolen shushpan.

Six kilograms on my head

Women's headdresses deserve special mention. In a married woman it could reach six kilograms in weight. The main thing is that this design completely covers the hair. People have long believed that they have witchcraft powers. The canvas base was compacted with hemp or birch bark to form a solid forehead part. This was called a kika, which ended with a cover made of chintz, velvet or calico. The back of the head was covered with the back of the head, a rectangular strip of fabric. In total, such a “hat” could include twelve parts. In winter, a round circle could be seen on the head of the Slavic woman. fur hat, but the hair was completely covered with a scarf. On holidays, a kokoshnik with a bottom made of fabric and a base of hard material appeared on their heads. It was usually covered with gold fabric and trimmed with pearls.

The girls had it much easier. Their headdress in Ancient Rus' looked like a bandage, hoop or crown. If such a rim was richly decorated, it was called a koruna. A rigid, often metal base covered with decorated fabric was fashionable among city dandies. In the villages, girlish corollas were simpler. Men preferred round hats with fur rims. Sheep, arctic foxes and foxes were used for fur. They also wore dried hats and felt caps. Usually their shape was cone-shaped and the top was rounded. They were sewn from linen and wool, and also knitted. Only princes and fellow boyars could afford skullcaps made of sable.

Footwear

The legs were wrapped in a cloth made of canvas or cloth, and on these onuchs they put bast shoes or boots, leather shoes. But the very first leather shoes in Rus' were pistons. They were made from a single piece of leather, which was gathered along the edge with a strap. Bast sandals were very short-lived. Even in the village they were worn for no more than ten days. On city pavements they wore out even faster. Therefore, bast shoes made from leather straps were more common there. Metal plates were often sewn onto them, so that they formed a kind of sandals.

Nowadays, felt boots are considered the most traditional footwear in Russia. But in fact, they only appeared in the 19th century and were very expensive. Usually there was only one pair of felt boots in a family. They wore them in turns. Boots became widespread much earlier. They were sewn from leather equally for men and women. The nobility sported boots made of morocco, goatskin soaked in lime mortar and polished with stone, yufti, that is, thick leather, and calf leather. Other names for boots are ichigs and chebots. Shoes that were tied with laces were women's shoes. Heels on them appeared only in the 16th century and could reach 10 centimeters.

From ports to trousers

If we talk about pants, then given word came to Rus' from the Turks somewhere in the 17th century. Before this, footwear was called porta. They were not made very wide, almost tight. A gusset was sewn between the two trouser legs for ease of walking. These primitive trousers reached the length of the shin, where they were tucked into the onuchi. For noble people they were sewn from taffeta in the summer, and from cloth in the winter. There were no buttons, and there was no cut for them. The ports on the hips were held in place with a cord. Something similar to trousers in the modern sense of the word appeared in Russia under Peter I.

You can't survive in Rus' without pants

The great importance of clothing among Russians was, of course, determined by the climate. In winter, you can’t go outside without pants, like in Rome or Constantinople. And the outerwear of Ancient Rus' was in many ways different from what was in everyday life for the majority European countries. When going outside, they put on warm, long suits made of cloth. Their sleeves had cuffs and their collars had a turn-down collar. They were fastened with buttonholes. This is typical specifically for ancient Russian clothing. Richer people brought into fashion kaftans made of axamite and velvet. Zipun is a type of caftan without a collar. The boyars considered it to be their underwear, and the common people wore it on the street. The word “župan” is now considered Polish or Czech, but it has been used in Rus' since ancient times. This is the same retinue, but shorter, slightly below the waist. And, of course, when talking about winter, one cannot help but mention fur. It must be said that fur clothing and its quantity did not serve as a sign of wealth. There were more than enough fur-bearing animals in the forests. Fur coats were sewn with the fur inside. They wore it not only in cold weather, but also in summer, even indoors. You can remember historical films and boyars sitting in fur coats and fur hats.

Old Russian sheepskin coat

One of the signs of prosperity in our time is a sheepskin coat. But the Slavs had similar clothing - a casing - in almost every home. It was made from the skin of goats or sheep with the fur on the inside. Peasants were more likely to see a sheepskin coat, a sheepskin casing. If ordinary people wore shrouds, the boyars preferred to cover them with foreign, expensive material. It could be, for example, Byzantine brocade. Knee-length jackets were later transformed into short fur coats. Women also wore them.

But other types of men's winter clothing of Ancient Rus' are more firmly forgotten. For example, Armenian. It was originally adopted from the Tatars and was made from camel hair. But it was too exotic, and besides, sheep’s wool turned out to be no worse. They put the army coat on over the sheepskin coat, so there was no way to fasten it. Another indispensable attribute of the ancient Russian wardrobe was used: the sash.

One of the oldest Slavic garments is epancha. This is a round cloak with a hood, but without sleeves. It came from the Arabs and is even mentioned in “The Tale of Igor’s Campaign.” Since the 16th century, it became a cape worn on ceremonial occasions, and under the field marshalship of Suvorov, the cape became part of the soldier’s and officer’s uniform. Okhaben was worn by people from the upper classes. After all, it was sewn from brocade or velvet. A special feature of the okhabny were extremely long sleeves, which were thrown behind the back, where they were tied in a knot. On Easter, noble boyars went to serve in the Feryazi. This was already the height of luxury, royal ceremonial clothing.

Let us also mention such clothes for all classes as single-row clothes. This is a type of caftan, but long-skimmed and with buttons to the hem. It was made of colored cloth, without a collar.

In a robe and fur coat

In winter, fashionistas preferred fur coats with decorative sleeves. They were long and folding, and there were slits above the waist for the arms. Many types of Russian costume were original. An example is the soul warmer. For peasant women it was a festive outfit, and for wealthier young ladies it was everyday wear. Dushegreya is a loose, narrow-front garment, rarely reaching mid-thigh in length. It was usually sewn from expensive fabrics with beautiful patterns. Shugai is another type of short, fitted outerwear, reminiscent of a modern jacket. Could have a fur collar. Wealthy city residents wore outerwear made of cotton fabric. In chronicles there is a mention of robes on princely daughters. For commoners, they were apparently a novelty.

From flax and homespun

The fabrics from which clothes were made were initially not very diverse. Linen and hemp were used for body shirts. The outer, overhead outfit was made of wool, and the warm retinues were made of coarse homespun and sheepskin. Gradually representatives noble families They acquired more and more silk fabrics from Byzantium. Brocade and velvet were used.

Cloak and power

For a long time, a cloak was an obligatory item in the Russian wardrobe, especially the princely wardrobe. It was sleeveless, draped over the shoulders, and pinned with a fibula near the neck. They wore cloaks and smerdas. The difference was the quality of the fabric and the fact that commoners did not use brooches. The first of the known varieties of cloak - votola, made of fabric plant origin. Both farmers and princes could wear a votolu. But bluegrass is already a sign of high origin. There was even a fine for damaging this cloak during a fight. Several centuries later, bluegrass was more often seen on monks than on urban fashionistas. But chroniclers mention korzno only when they want to emphasize the princely dignity of its owner. Most likely, even the closest boyars did not have the right to wear such a cloak. There is a known case when he saved a person from death. For some reason, the prince wanted to save someone who had already had a sword raised over him. That's why I threw a basket over him.

Canvas

What is canvas fabric? Now not every person knows the answer to this question. And in pre-Mongol Rus', canvas clothing was the most common among both the nobility and commoners. Flax and hemp were the first plants to be used for making fabric and clothing, mainly shirts and tailoring. Girls in those ancient times wore cufflinks. Simply put, it is a piece of fabric that is folded in half and cut out for the head. They put it on over the undershirt and belted it. Daughters from wealthier families had underwear made of thin materials, while everyone else had coarser ones, reminiscent of burlap. A wool shirt was called a hair shirt; it was so coarse that monks wore it to humble the flesh.

Will awesomeness come into fashion?

Much of the wardrobe of ancient fashionistas and dandies, slightly modified, has survived to this day, but has become far less accessible. The same well-made casing costs as much as an inexpensive car. Not every woman can afford a fur warmer either. But now hardly anyone wants to wear an okhaben or a one-row suit. Although fashion, they say, is coming back.

Source-http//www.liveinternet.ru/users/tantana/profile

Makovsky K.E.

Girl's headdress

In ancient times, a kokoshnik (headdress) was called a crown or golodets. Only girls wore such headdresses, because according to ancient Russian custom, married women had to completely cover their heads and hide their hair from human eyes, but before the wedding it was quite possible and even commendable to show off long braids. Therefore, girls' dresses almost always left the top of the head open, and the headdress, attached to the back of the head with ties, was no exception

Kokoshnik, 19v, Olonets province.

Kokoshnik, 2nd floor 19th century, Pskov province.

In general, there are many things associated with this headdress amazing facts: for example, a wedding crown was sewn into the pillow of a newly-made wife immediately after the celebration, and after the birth of a daughter it was placed in her cradle. And, growing up, she put it on own wedding. Thus, the kokoshnik was passed down through several generations. Another interesting custom is to sew foods into the wedding golodets: peppers, oats, raisins, pieces of sugar, even garlic bulbs and pieces of bread. The reason for such an unusual design of the headdress is the belief that the more different products are sewn into the crown, the more of them will be on the table of the newlyweds throughout their married life.

K. E. Makovsky. Boyaryshna at the window (with a spinning wheel). 1890s

Vladimir-Nizhny Novgorod kokoshnik.

Nikolay Nevrev. "Vasilisa Melentyevna." 1886

The most shameful punishment for a girl was the punishment for the early loss of innocence: it consisted of depriving the offender of a crown, and in some cases the girl was forced to wear the cut off half of the headdress.

K. E. Makovsky

K. E. Makovsky

The headdresses of married women - kik or kichek - had their own secrets: a special plate was sewn into the kik to create the appearance of horns - an ancient Russian symbol. For this reason, the common people called the kiku “hoof” or “shovel”, and due to the fact that it was often the headdress of newlyweds, it was called the “crown of marriage”. At one time, the Russian Orthodox Church unsuccessfully fought against kikas: women were forbidden to enter the temple wearing this headdress.

V. E. Makovsky. Peasant woman.

Makovsky K.E. Boyar wedding feast in the 17th century

Toropets (Pskov province) XVIII

Golden Dome - women's headdress. Kursk region. 18th century

K. E. Makovsky

Soroka is a woman’s headdress. A magpie decorated with embroidery or precious stones was called sazhenaya; There was also a winged magpie (with side lobes with ties, or wings): the hair was pulled together by a sderich at the back of the head. Sometimes a pearl garter was added to the front of the magpie on the magpie itself (also known as the ocela). If a scarf was tied over the magpie, then it was called “magpie with a howl.”

K. E. Makovsky

Kokoshnik.Kokoshnik (from the Slavic "kokosh", meaning a chicken and a rooster, from the Old Russian "kokosh" - hen-hen, in contrast to "kokot" - a rooster, dialect. kokoshka, kokuy, golden-headed, head, tilter, tilt, shelomok , duckweed) is an ancient Russian headdress in the form of a comb (fan or rounded shield) around the head, a symbol of Russian traditional costume.

Povoynik, povoy, povoets (from povovat) - an old Russian headdress of married women, mainly peasant women, most often a scarf, a towel tied on top of another headdress. Sometimes a soft cap made of fabric, which had a different shape, but mostly with round or oval bottom, band and ties at the back. As a rule, the warrior was worn on weekdays (on holidays they wore kokoshniks). By the beginning of the 20th century. The warrior replaced more complex headdresses - the magpie, the kichka.

K. E. Makovsky

Girl's headdress

K. E. Makovsky

A.P. Ryabushkin. Sunday afternoon

A.P. Ryabushkin. Merchant family in the 17th century

V.M. Vasnetsov. "Three Princesses of the Underground Kingdom"

Unknown artist Portrait of the Torzhkov merchant's wife

I.E.Repin.Choice of the Grand Duke's Bride

Sedov G.S. "Choice of a Bride by Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich"

A.P. Ryabushkin K. E. Makovsky

I.P. Argunov. Portrait of an unknown woman in Russian costume

K.E. Makovsky “Boyaryshna” 1884 Women’s and girls’ hats in Rus'.

For centuries in Rus', the entire female outfit was “talking” and therefore what a woman’s head was decorated with could be judged about her place of residence, occupation, origin and status.
Each province had its own fashion and decorated the headdress in a special way. You could tell by the headdress social status his mistress. Moreover, it was by the headdress that one could tell whether a young lady or a married woman was walking down the street. The headdress also spoke of the wealth of its owner. This was evident because of the techniques and materials used to decorate the headdress of the Russian beauty.

Girl's headdress

Women's and girls' hats in Rus'. Girl's festive costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province Headband, sundress, soul warmer

Headdresses were sewn depending on the status of the woman. It must be said that the girl’s headdress could be quite varied. It was called a crown, a ribbon, a bee, a whisk, a cloth. In addition to these names there were others.

Women's and girls' hats in Rus'. An ancient girl's headdress - a crown of bangs

Headdresses were made of fabric and brocade, which was folded like a ribbon. The koruna was considered the most solemn headdress. We can call it a crown and its base was made of wire, foil or even simple cardboard. The base was covered with fabric and embroidered with beads, pearls and stones. Mother of pearl, coins and shells were also used... Everything that looked beautiful and harmonious on each specific product.

Girl's festive costume. XIX century. Vologda province Shirt, sundress, bib, headband, shawl

The korunas in the northern provinces were especially beautiful. They were decorated with precious stones. Crowns were worn by marriageable girls until the 20th century.

Headdress for a married woman.

Women's festive costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province

“Straight-haired,” that is, only a girl could walk without a headdress, and it was impossible to meet a bare-haired woman, that is, a married woman - the head of a clan in Rus'. Most often, the woman wore a kika.
 Kika could have “horns” into which dense fabric was inserted. These “horns” on the headdress were supposed to protect the woman and give her strength and fertility. The older the woman became, the smaller the horns on the kick became.

Russian: Votyachka. 1838
1838
Source
Russian: Album “Clothes of the Russian State”
English: Album “Clothes Of Russian Country”

Magpie.

Women's Old Believer festive costume. Chernukha village, Nizhny Novgorod province Shirt, sundress, belt, apron-cuff, magpie, chest decoration “beard”, chest decoration – “viteyka”.

The magpie's headdress could be brocade or velvet. The magpie was decorated with pearls and gold embroidery. Young women wore magpies on patronal feast days and treasured them as the most expensive outfit. Magpie was worth more than a thoroughbred horse.

Kokoshnik.

The most famous headdress is perhaps the kokoshnik. Today it is mistakenly confused with a girl’s headdress - a comb and a crown. But the kokoshnik is a purely female headdress!
To make a kokoshnik, they took quilted or glued canvas, which was covered with fabric with embroidery. Often the fabric was embroidered with beads and stones.
The edges of the kokoshnik were decorated with pearl threads - cassocks. In front there was a net of pearls. On the kokoshnik one could wear silk or woolen scarves - ubrus.
 Nowadays, women also wear hats, only now it is almost impossible to determine where the beauty came from and whether she is married. There was no such confusion in Rus'.
Today you can see real modern headdresses in Moscow in Gostiny Dvor at the address: Gostiny Dvor entrance from Varvarka, building 3, entrance 15. In Gostiny Dvor there is a representative office of the Russian fashion designer Valentina Averyanova, who continues to preserve the life of Russian headdresses. Today you can buy or order a kokoshnik, kiku, crown, koruna or other headdress corresponding to your status in order to continue the traditions of Rus' in the modern world.

Where to go wearing such a headdress today? You ask. It depends on your type of activity, lifestyle and courage. Today, Russian women's or girls' headdresses are purchased for important celebrations such as weddings or public holidays, meetings with heads of state or for themed holidays and balls. And someone wears a Russian headdress to church services...

The choice is yours!

Russian headdress - bandage

Koruna - wedding headdress of Anastasia Averyanova

crown in Russian style

Women's and girls' headdresses in Rus': The traditional modern headdress is the crown.

Women's and girls' headdresses in Rus' Modern headdress - bandage.

Women's and girls' hats in Rus'. Modern crown

Wedding crown, mantle and armband

Women's and girls' hats in Rus'. Modern headband

Linen embroidery, glass embroidery

Boyar dress and crown from Valentina Averyanova

Head accessory: modern headband

Women's and girls' headdresses in Rus': a modern crown

crown in Russian style

crown and lace warmer with hood