Probably every novice photographer who is seriously passionate about his craft sooner or later thinks about buying a DSLR camera. However, you should not think that just purchasing a “DSLR” is enough to start creating masterpieces.

Of course, most SLR cameras are equipped with good automatic settings that allow you to take quite decent amateur photos - but it’s much more pleasant to use the capabilities of your camera to the maximum. And believe me, it can do a lot - you just need to learn how to use it correctly.

So let's start talking about how to take photographs correctly. SLR camera.

Focus and depth of field

Surely, when looking at the work of professional photographers on the Internet or in magazines, you paid attention to the difference in sharpness between the foreground and background. The main subject of the photo appears sharp and clear, while the background appears blurry.

It is almost impossible to achieve such an effect with an amateur camera, and this is due to the smaller size of the matrix. The sharpness of such images is evenly distributed across the entire screen, that is, all details have approximately the same clarity.

This isn't always a bad thing, and is great for landscapes or architecture, but when shooting portraits, a well-designed background will distract from the main subject and the overall photo will look flat.

SLR camera, having large size matrix, allows you to adjust the depth of field.

Depth of field of the imaged space (DOF)– the range between the front and rear edges of the sharp area in the photograph, that is, exactly that part of the image that the photographer highlights in the picture.

What affects the depth of field and how to learn to control it? One such factor is focal length. Focusing is the aiming of the lens at the object, providing it with maximum sharpness. DSLR cameras have several focusing modes, from which you have to choose the most suitable one for specific shooting conditions. Let's look at each one separately.

  • Single autofocus – the most popular and convenient mode in static conditions, in which focusing is carried out, as mentioned above, by half-pressing the shutter button. Its undoubted advantage is the ability to change the position of the camera at your discretion without lifting your finger from the button. The object you select will remain in focus. The disadvantage of this mode is the delay created by the need to re-focus on the object each time.
  • Continuous autofocus – A mode suitable for shooting moving subjects. The focus moves along with the subject, so you don't have to re-focus each time. Of course, this mode has a number of errors: due to changes in speed and distance, the device is not always able to focus as desired, and not every frame will turn out successful. However, the chances of doing at least a few good pictures are also quite large.
  • Mixed autofocus – a combination of the first two options. When activated, the camera shoots in the first mode exactly until the object begins to move, and then automatically switches to the second. This shooting mode is well suited for beginners because the camera takes care of focusing problems, leaving the photographer free to focus on composition and other factors.

Learn how to get rid of it early in your career and your path will be easier.

Always try to develop and improve. In addition to practice, theory will also be useful: a large selection of photo sites for photographers.

Good light is essential for high-quality portrait work. You can find out how to make a softbox with your own hands at this address:

Shutter speed and aperture

The second factor influencing depth of field is aperture value.

The aperture regulates the amount of light transmitted to the lens. sun rays, opening and closing the lens shutters. The more the sash is open, the more light it lets in. It is with its help that you can distribute the sharpness in the picture and achieve the creative effect you need.

You need to remember a simple relationship:

The smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field.

If the aperture is closed, sharpness is evenly distributed throughout the frame. An open aperture just makes it possible to blur the background or other not so significant objects, leaving sharp only what you want your camera to focus on.

Excerpt– the period of time during which the shutter is open. Thus, the number of light rays that manage to pass inside depends on the duration of this interval. Of course, this directly affects the look of your photo. The longer the shutter speed, the more “blurry” the objects will be. A short shutter speed, on the contrary, makes them static.

In stable lighting, shutter speed and aperture are directly proportional to each other: the more open the aperture, the shorter the shutter speed - and vice versa. Why this is so is not difficult to guess. Both affect the amount of light needed for your photo. If the aperture is wide open, the amount of light is already sufficient and a long shutter speed is not required.

Photosensitivity

Light sensitivity (ISO)– the sensitivity of the matrix to light when the aperture is opened.

You don’t have to set the ISO value yourself either - you can use the automatic mode, in which the camera will select it itself. But in order to understand what photosensitivity is and what it affects, it’s better to take at least a few shots, raising and lowering ISO and comparing the results.

Its high or maximum value allows you to take pictures in low light conditions, thus being an alternative to flash. This will be an ideal solution for you in situations where flash photography is prohibited - for example, at concerts or other official events.

Also, ISO will help you out in situations where a wide open aperture and a slow shutter speed result in a too dark image. But when experimenting with ISO, you will quickly notice that increasing its value also increases the amount of noise in the frame. This is an inevitable effect, but it can be smoothed out, for example, using graphic editors.

Shooting modes

A DSLR camera has a wide range of shooting modes, which can be divided into manual and automatic. The latter roughly correspond to similar modes on an amateur camera: they are called “Sports”, “Landscape”, “Night Portrait”, etc.

When you select this mode, the camera automatically selects the settings needed for the given conditions, and you don't have to worry about anything else. This is quite convenient, and photographs taken in such modes can be quite successful. And yet, if you set your SLR camera to manual settings, then you are provided with creative freedom, and a person planning to take photography seriously needs to be familiar with them.

So, what are they manual shooting modes are at our disposal?

  • P (programmed)- a mode similar to AUTO, but leaving more room for independent actions. Using it, you can independently change the ISO and white balance, as well as correct the shutter speed and aperture automatically set by the camera. All other settings, as in automatic mode, will be selected by the caring camera itself.
  • Av (aperture)- a mode that allows you to set the aperture value at your own discretion, without worrying about shutter speed - the camera will select it on its own. Great for portraits and other depth of field experiments.
  • S(shutter)– in contrast to the previous option, this is a shutter priority mode. It is easy to guess that in this case the camera will automatically set the aperture. Suitable for shooting moving and dynamic subjects.
  • M (manual)– a truly manual mode, in which the camera no longer interferes at all. All settings here: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are at your discretion. With this mode, you can give yourself complete creative freedom and try a variety of combinations in unusual shooting conditions. Of course, you should use this mode only when you really understand the settings of your camera and approach the matter with knowledge.

In everyday life natural shooting the best and easiest way is to use Av mode. It is the most convenient for controlling the depth of field and allows you to completely surrender to the artistic process of creating the best composition.

Flash

Built-in flash– a faithful assistant when shooting in low light conditions. But it, like other features of a SLR camera, needs to be used wisely. If handled incorrectly, there is a high probability of ruining the frame by exposing it. Here are some tips to help you avoid this:

  • Use manual flash power control, the value of which can be reduced when receiving too bright frames.
  • Try it switch the camera to automatic “Night Shot” mode. Unlike AUTO, in this mode the flash action is “softened”, and the light is slightly scattered around the subject, without being fixed only on it.
  • Experiment with light scattering(we wrote how to do it here). To do this, you can use white cloth, paper or any other material that will need to be fixed before the flash. But you should not use materials dyed in other colors for this purpose - they can give the skin the wrong shade and generally have a bad effect on the photo.
  • Use your camera's modes discussed above - ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Having tried different variants, you will be able to find exactly the one that will make your pictures successful.

White balance

The camera matrix is ​​more sensitive than the human eye and sensitively perceives color temperature. You've probably seen photographs with strange lighting effects: faces in them may appear blue, green, or orange. This often happens when shooting in rooms lit with incandescent lamps. Setting the white balance on your camera will help correct the situation.

Of course use automatic setup (AWB), but then there will still be a risk of error. The best thing to do is to “tell” the camera what color white is, which can be done using manual mode (MWB). To begin, you will need to select from the menu of your camera manual installation white balance.

After this, it is enough to take any white object, for example, a sheet of paper, photograph it, and record the color as correct. The algorithm may differ depending on your camera model, but if difficulties arise, the instructions will help you out.

Choose a DSLR to start

When choosing photographic equipment to start with, a novice photographer should know about some important details, which you should definitely pay attention to when selecting SLR cameras. It is clear that you should not start working on expensive equipment. And not only because of the high price, primarily because, without knowing the basics, mastering the functions of a “sophisticated” camera will not only be difficult, but often impossible. Inexpensive cameras have a lot of tips and automatic modes, which are simply necessary at the start.

Particular attention should be paid to the resolution of the matrix. These are exactly the pixels that are indicated in the main characteristics and on the camera body. But remember that for beginners it is better to choose a DSLR with a crop matrix.

If you're serious about photography, choose a technique with manual settings. In the future, this technique will give you good experience and the chance of great opportunities in this field of activity. It’s better to choose the camera itself from the list of the most recommended DSLR models for beginners, which are produced by well-known world manufacturers. Don’t neglect to contact those who have been familiar with photographic equipment for a long time and will help you in choosing the right camera to start with.

If the abundance of complex terms does not scare you, and you are still full of enthusiasm, ready to work and improve, go ahead! Some simple tips will help you on your creative path:

  • In order to learn how to take professional photographs with a DSLR, constant practice is required. Try to take your camera with you wherever you go, and don’t miss the opportunity to take a good shot. Develop your artistic thinking! As a photographer, you need to be able to build the desired composition mentally, separate interesting shots from ordinary ones, and be able to notice what someone else wouldn’t pay attention to.
  • Explore your camera's modes and try different combinations. Don't be afraid to squat and take different positions to find the best angle. This way you will increase your chances of getting the desired result many times over!
  • Draw conclusions based on the finished material. Note your mistakes—you can even keep a special notebook for this—and try to avoid them in the future.
  • Consider the work of famous photographers. The more time you spend on this, the more ideas you will gain and the correct conclusions you will draw. At the initial stages, there is nothing wrong with imitating one of the professionals and copying their work. Over time, you will certainly develop your own style, but at first you should not neglect the experience of others.
  • Read relevant literature, watch video tutorials, attend courses, communicate with professional photographers. You need to be fluent in the technical side of the photography process, this will work to your advantage. Before you know it, you will become much more confident in handling the camera.

A DSLR camera is your ticket to a world of possibilities. professional photography. By working, experimenting, and purchasing additional equipment - such as lenses and flashes - you can achieve the most amazing results. We hope that the information on how to learn to use a SLR camera will be useful to you.

Make the most of your camera, and let him become your reliable friend and assistant in implementing your ideas!

If you are confused a large number of various buttons, modes and settings on your Nikon DSLR digital camera and you don't feel like reading hundreds of pages of user manual, don't worry - you're not alone. In this article, we'll show you how to learn how to set up your camera and how to master the basics of using any Nikon DSLR - that is, any Nikon ever made from 1999 to the present.

Steps

A few words about the notation system

All Nikon DSLR cameras are similar to each other, but there are significant differences between the classes of cameras. To simplify the material, the following categories are used in this article, and they have nothing to do with image quality (in this sense, the D3000 is much better than the D1 professional camera released in 1999):

  • Professional cameras- these are the most expensive cameras with the ability to manually adjust almost all settings, both significant and unimportant. This category includes cameras with one number in the name (D1/D1H/D1X, D2H and subsequent versions, D3, D4), as well as D300 and D700.
  • U mid-range cameras The top panel houses a circular mode switch to the left of the viewfinder. They have buttons that control white balance, ISO, shooting mode, etc.
  • TO cameras entry level include the D40, D60 and current versions of the D3000 and D5000 cameras. In them, settings for the shooting mode, ISO, white balance and other functions require a long search in the menu, since there are no buttons on the body for quick access to these functions.

Basics

Settings

Nikon DSLR cameras have settings that only need to be set once. In this article we'll use generalizations to help you get started with photography, but as you become more advanced and begin to understand the intricacies of the settings, you may want to experiment with various functions. But you will get to this later, but for now you need to learn how to do the most important things.

    Set your camera to burst mode. By default, your camera will be set to single-release shutter (that is, the camera can only take one photo each time you press the shutter button). You don't need it yet. In burst mode, the camera takes photos at high speed until you release the shutter button. Digital cameras allow you to use this setting, and even if you're not shooting fast-moving subjects (which is where burst mode is a must), there's a reason to use this mode for one reason: it allows you to get sharper photos. Taking a series of two or three shots instead of one increases your chances of getting a sharp photo, because when you only take one photo, if you're unlucky, it will come out blurry. In addition, the camera will not move due to repeated presses of the shutter button, which will also contribute to sharper photos.

    Don't worry about the life of the shutter - most Nikon digital SLR cameras do not need repair or replacement of the shutter even after hundreds of thousands of shots.

    • Professional cameras. For this you have a separate regulator. Move it to position C. Press the button next to the control to activate it and switch the control. Your camera may also have positions Ch And Cl- this means “continuous/high-speed” and “continuous/low-speed”. These names speak for themselves, so choose what suits you best. Template:largeimage substep
    • Mid-range cameras. Hold the button shown in the photo and turn the round knob. Three rectangles will appear on the top screen (instead of one rectangle or timer icon) indicating that burst mode is enabled. Template:largeimage substep
    • Entry-level cameras. You'll have to dig through the settings to get to the right section. Unfortunately, you'll have to figure this out on your own because the menus for cameras at this level vary greatly.

  1. Enable vibration reduction mode on the lens (if equipped). If you're shooting in low light or have trouble holding the camera steady, this mode will help you avoid camera shake and help you get sharp photos. You should only turn this mode off if you're shooting on a tripod, as the whole point of this feature is to eliminate the need for a tripod.

    Use matrix metering. Explaining the need for matrix metering is beyond the scope of this article, so let's just say that it is a very smart system that gets exposure correct in most cases. Professional cameras have a separate button for this. In mid-range cameras, you need to hold down the button while turning the main control and wait until the matrix metering icon appears. On simple, cheap cameras, this setting is hidden in the menu, but you can skip this step because your camera most likely uses matrix metering by default.

    Set the camera to full-time autofocus mode (C). In this mode, the camera will focus continuously while the shutter button is pressed halfway and will be able to take into account the movement of the subject. This mode is also suitable for shooting stationary objects. (Don't bother yourself with the other focus modes. Single AF (S) is useless when shooting moving subjects, because once the camera focuses, the focus is locked and remains unchanged. Manual focusing is used very rarely; the camera rarely fails so much that it stops focusing on its own , but even if this happens, you still won’t be able to see in the viewfinder whether you managed to achieve focus or not.)

    • On all cameras. If you have a lever A-M(or A/M-M, where A/M is autofocus with instant manual correction), set it to A or A/M. Template:largeimage substep
    • On professional cameras. On the front of the camera to the right of the lens there is a dial with three settings: C, S and M. Set it to position C. Template:largeimage substep
    • On all other cameras. You may have a similar control in the same place, which will have two positions - AF (autofocus) and M (manual focus). Set it to AF position. You'll again have to use the menu to find the full-time autofocus settings. Template:largeimage substep

Shooting

Most cameras have a "WB" button. Hold it and turn the main control. You must distinguish between the following settings:

  • Don't overuse the flash. If you want something better than faded party photos, avoid indoor shoots that require you to use on-camera flash. Go outside - you'll have plenty of opportunities to work with natural light. On the other hand, Nikon has developed excellent flashes (the sync speed alone is worth it - 1/500, and this is on older cameras!). They can be used when shooting outdoors to avoid shadows under the eyes if you are photographing in bright sun.

    Set the ISO value. ISO is a measure of the sensor's sensitivity to light. A low ISO value means a low sensitivity, which gives a minimum of noise to the image, but requires a long shutter speed (and, as we know, it is not so easy to hold the camera in your hands at a long shutter speed), and vice versa. If you're shooting in bright daylight, keep your ISO as low as possible (usually 200, but many cameras allow you to set it to 100).

    Eat quick way determine what the ISO value should be. Take the focal length of your lens (eg 200mm) and multiply it by 1.5 (for all cameras except D3, D4, D600, D700 and D800). If you are using a lens with a stabilizer (which we highly recommend you do) and working with the stabilizer turned on (which we also highly recommend you do), divide the resulting number by 4 (for example, you will get 75). As a general rule, you should choose a shutter speed no slower than the number you receive (i.e. 1/80 second or 1/300 for non-stabilized lenses). Increase the ISO until you get a good picture at these fast shutter speeds.

    In most cameras, the ISO value is set by holding down the ISO button and turning the main dial. You will see the ISO values ​​on the screen (on one or both). Owners of D3000, D40 and similar cameras will have to look for these settings in the menu.

    I decided to make a topic with useful tips, which will be of interest to beginning (and perhaps “continuing”) photographers.

    1) Selecting a DSLR camera
    2) Preparing for shooting
    3) Sorting footage

    So, you have decided to become a “photographer” and buy a SLR camera. The question will arise (which has already been discussed on the Internet a million times) - " what camera should I buy?"

    1) Selecting a DSLR camera

    Somehow it so happened that there are two leaders in the SLR camera market, between whom there is constant competition - these are companies Nikon And Canon. In my opinion, cameras from other manufacturers lag behind these two leaders and will not be considered here.

    DSLR cameras can be divided into 4 groups:
    - Group 1- cameras for "beginners"
    - Group 2- cameras for “continuers”
    - Group 3- cameras for “advanced”
    - Group 4- semi- and professional cameras

    Last camera group - full-length(whose sensor size is 36x24mm), first three groups - the so-called " cropped" cameras (the sensor size of which is approximately one and a half times less). Full-format cameras are expensive (from $2,000 and up) and you shouldn’t buy them as your first DSLR. I would also not recommend buying cameras from the first group (for “beginners”), since its capabilities will no longer be enough after a year of use.

    I think at least you need to focus on cameras second groups, and if budget allows, then as the first DSLR you can take a camera from thirds groups - the capabilities of such a camera will last you for a long time!

    2) Preparing for shooting

    The second action after purchasing a camera will be shooting. The last thing you can do when you buy a DSLR camera is use Automatic shooting mode. Therefore, it will be very good if you learn to use the so-called " creative"Shooting modes - " Aperture priority" (A at Nikon’a or Av at Canon’a), " Shutter priority" (S at Nikon’a or TV at Canon’a) and " Manual mode" (M).

    Wouldn't hurt to read it at all User guide to the purchased camera and it is advisable to read several books on the theory of photography and composition. A large selection of books is located here - ... try to read at least first 2-3 books and, if possible and if you have free time, all the others presented on that page.

    1) Try to take shots that will be interesting to someone else besides you and your relatives (for example "I'm near the palm tree" would be a good addition to a family album, but nothing more).
    2) Before pressing the shutter, try to pay attention to the foreground, middle and background - there should be nothing superfluous in the frame (random objects, passers-by, garbage, trees and pillars “growing” from the head of the person you are photographing).
    3) Pay attention to the horizontal or vertical position of the camera, this will reduce the number of frames with a “cluttered horizon” (when horizontal or vertical lines have a “blockage”)
    4) If you take several shots, you will have a better chance of choosing the most successful one.
    5) If you need to have time to capture movement, then take pictures in shutter priority, in most other cases you can shoot in aperture priority.

    I would like to briefly expand on the last point and briefly explain how these modes work.

    Shutter priority- the shutter speed is set manually, and the aperture value is automatically “calculated” by the camera. Aperture priority- on the contrary, the aperture value is set manually, and the shutter speed is “calculated” by the camera. IN manual In shooting mode, all parameters are set manually.

    The shorter the shutter speed ( 1/500 sec - 1/4000 sec), the faster the shutter speed, the more you will be able to “freeze” the movement.
    How less value aperture ( f/1.4 - f/1.8), the more it is open, the blurrier the background will be. And vice versa, if you want the foreground and background to be clear, then you need to close the aperture by choosing a large aperture number ( f/16 - f/22 For example).

    To understand how the connection works shutter speed-aperture-ISO, you can use these links:
    The SLR Camera Simulator and Beginner Photographer Trainer

    Shevelenka(image blur when shooting handheld due to long shutter speed):
    IN general case, if the plot is banal and does not require special conditions, when shooting handheld, you should try to ensure that the shutter speed is not longer than 1/f(lens focal length). For example, for a lens 50 mm you should try to use shorter shutter speeds 1/50 s.

    1) If you are going to shoot in low light conditions, then it is very advisable to stock up on a compact one in order to avoid “blurring” the image at “long” shutter speeds.
    2) this will allow you to select a low value ISO(100) to prevent digital noise.
    3) at night it’s easiest to shoot in Manual mode ( Manual): try this - aperture ~f/8, shutter speed 5-15 sec
    4) If the photo turns out dark, then increase the exposure time or open the aperture slightly, and vice versa - if the photo turns out light, then reduce the shutter speed or close the aperture.
    5) It is advisable to transfer the focus to manual mode, focus in LiveView at maximum magnification on the screen (usually the buttons that are used to magnify images when viewing them).
    6) It’s better to shoot either using a remote control or with a 2-second delay
    7) The movement of the mirror can create small mechanical vibrations, which can “ruin” the frame when shooting at night. Therefore, it is advisable to shoot from LiveView mode - in this case, the mirror is already raised, which eliminates these micro-vibrations.
    8) If, with an accurately set focus, a raised mirror and using a 2-second delay (or an IR remote control), you still get blurry, then increase the ISO by a couple of steps (from 100 to 400-800), which will allow Reduce the shutter speed by 2 stops. Higher ISO 800 On “medium” level cameras you should not rise, this will increase the noise.
    8) When shooting scenes in which there are brightly lit areas (advertising signs, for example), it is advisable to shoot with exposure bracketing in steps of +-2 EV. Then, from the three captured frames in Photoshop, it will be possible to get one “high-quality” frame, in which all the details will be visible both in the shadows and in the “highlights”.
    9) And it’s better to take pictures during “regime time” (+- 30 minutes before and after sunset, when the sky is not completely black, but is also illuminated by the setting sun).
    10) Always shoot in RAW, this will allow you to adjust during post-processing White Balance. If during the day the camera quite often correctly determines the White Balance, then at night, when shooting in JPEG, there will be a chance to get a brown sky.
    11) If you shoot from a tripod at long exposures in windy weather, you can hold the tripod by the legs to avoid image blur.

    3) Sorting footage

    Once in Pasha Kosenko’s magazine ( pavel_kosenko ) came across the phrase:

    “It takes 10 minutes to learn how to take photographs. In order to learn to make selection, you need to become an individual.”
    (c) G. Pinkhasov

    There is another good phrase:

    A good photographer is not one who takes a lot of pictures, but one who deletes a lot.

    You can't say it more precisely! Probably the most difficult thing is to learn to select the best, most interesting shots from the footage, and throw everything else in the trash (or in a long box “for later”)

    I'll try to give some tips on selecting photos...

    1) Sharpness. If it is not there, or it is not where it should be, the frame is in the trash. This is rule number 1. There are exceptions when the lack of sharpness is the author’s intention and such a frame looks interesting:

    But in most cases, a “blurred” image is a defect.

    ruber_kor , sorry for using your photos as an example

    2) Plot. The frame should be interesting. Try to look at your photographs through the eyes of another person and try to assess how interesting your photo will be to other people. There must be some kind of zest... there must be emotion... there must be a plot or story. (see examples from point 1)

    3) Angle. When shooting chest-length portraits, it is advisable to place the camera at the eye level of the model (be it an adult, a child, or a dog with a cat). When shooting portraits in full height It is advisable to place the camera at the model’s chest level. Architecture, landscapes, etc. can be shot from very low or very high point- an unusual angle will add a “zest”. If you took a picture of your child from the height of your height, being too lazy to sit down, then such a frame will be worthy only of your personal family album. Of course, there may be exceptions, and sometimes shooting portraits from unusual angles also gives interesting results:

    4) Composition. If there is an interesting plot, but in the frame main character(or the hero’s) arms/legs/head are “cut off”, then perhaps such a frame will not look good. Very often in the photographs of novice photographers you can find two common mistakes: a littered horizon and various items(trees, poles, etc.) “growing” from the head of the person in the picture. If a littered horizon can (and should) be “corrected” at the stage of photo processing, then “removing” a tree sticking out of the head will be more problematic, so this moment needs to be controlled during shooting. There may also be exceptions... but in order to shoot with “clumsy” compositions, you must first learn to shoot with the correct compositions:

    5) Lighting. If the frame contains overexposed areas (completely white) or “gaps” (completely black), then it is advisable to run such frames through RAW converter and try to get rid of such areas. If you don’t know how to use converters, then you can leave the frame for “later” and start studying the hardware.

    How Not It is desirable to have light/shadow:

    There may also be exceptions, but there is no need to make it a “rule” to constantly have highlights and failures.

    How preferably have light/shadow:


    ()


    ()

    As can be seen from reservations - there are exceptions. But in order to learn how to make beautiful and interesting photos If these “requirements for photography” are violated, you must first learn how to take photos while meeting the “requirements.” In order to break the rules, you must first learn to follow them!

    4) Post-processing of sorted material

    Professional photographers pay a large role to post-processing of the selected material.

    I often see statements like " Photoshop is evil!" or " I am for naturalness!"... I am sure that in 99% of cases such statements are a substitute for recognition" I don't know how to use Photoshop ".

    If you want to learn how to get “candy” from your selected frames, then studying photo post-processing programs will help you with this. Probably the most common programs are Adobe Photoshop CS and LightRoom. The book will help you get acquainted with the basics of photo processing and give an idea of ​​the main tools of these two programs.

    For "inspiration" visit the portal http://35photo.ru/, and spend a couple of hours there, where, in my opinion, some first-class work is presented.

    I hope my tips are useful to someone!

    If anyone disagrees with the above or has any additions, please write!

    They will tell and show beginning photographers how to hold a SLR camera correctly, how to properly set up the camera in various photographic conditions, how to beautifully place objects in the frame, and much more that you need to know to learn how to take beautiful photographs.

    However, you should remember that free photography lessons for beginners are not Magic wand. Neither photography lessons, nor teachers at a paid photography school, nor a certificate of photography courses, nor a diploma in photography will make you a master of photography if you spend more time on theory than practice!

    Achieving success in learning photography is very simple - take a lot of photographs, everywhere, in different conditions, and only sometimes, but regularly study the theory of photography!

    Photography lesson 1

    How to hold a camera correctly

    You would be surprised how many amateur photographers don't know the basics of using a camera and still can't figure out why their photos don't look great! Many of them are already adults, having graduated from school long ago and even received higher education. Is it worth spending time learning things that everyone understands?

    Photography lesson 2

    How to press the shutter button correctly

    Using recompose photography, the most important object in the photo will always be the sharpest, this is how professional photographers shoot. But sometimes it can be difficult to capture the climax of the events being photographed, especially if you photograph with a camera with a long shutter delay. You can reduce the shutter lag...

    Photography lesson 3

    Aperture priority or shutter priority?

    Is it better to use aperture priority or shutter priority? The answer is simple - it depends on what you photograph! In Tv or S shutter priority mode, the ability to shoot a moving subject without blur will increase. On the other hand, if you want the background of the photo to be blurred, select Av (A) mode - aperture priority. However, in this case you may need a photo tripod.

    Photography lesson 4

    Part one

    What is depth of field and how to control depth of field

    If you look closely at a photograph where there are objects located at different distances from the camera lens, you will notice that with the exception of the main subject, some objects, both in front and behind the main subject, are also quite sharp... or, on the contrary, blurry.

    Part two

    Lens focal length and blurred background. First rule of depth of field

    What is the focal length of a lens. What is the angle of view of the lens. What is the relationship between the viewing angle of the lens, focal length and depth of field (blurring the background in a photograph). Press the lens focal length buttons and watch how the depth of field changes depending on the focal length of the lens


    Part three

    Blurred background and lens aperture. Second rule of depth of field

    In this Depth of Field tutorial, you will learn about a more powerful tool for changing Depth of Field. To see what a photo will look like with a closed aperture, use the aperture repeater - a button by pressing which you can forcefully close the aperture to a set value and evaluate the depth of field before taking a photo. Lens aperture switch buttons below the picture

    Photography lesson 5

    Basics of composition in photography

    Please remember how you felt when you looked at a masterfully shot shot? What attracted your attention to the photo? It's hard to answer this question, isn't it? And the whole point is that it’s smart photograph taken attracts your attention on a subconscious level...

    Photography lesson 6

    Taking a portrait

    Portrait is perhaps the most important type of photography. Not because if the photo is unsuccessful, the model may be offended, or even... :-) Because the portrait reflects not only external feature subject - a good portrait photograph always conveys the mood or feelings of the model.

    Photography Lesson 7

    Landscape and macro photography

    Landscape and photography from a very close distance - what can they have in common? Landscape photography is the opposite of portrait photography, in the sense that everything in the frame must be sharp. For landscape and macro photography, it is better to use compact cameras with a small matrix...

    Photography Lesson 8

    Panorama photography

    Panoramic photography is a relatively new and very effective mode available only in compact digital cameras. However, even if your camera doesn't have a panorama mode, you can still take a great panoramic photo.

    Photography Lesson 9

    Correct exposure

    Correct exposure is very important for taking a good photograph - it is the most important component of the technical quality of a photograph. Since the artistry of a photograph is partly a subjective assessment of the image (there are no comrades in taste and color, as they say), the class of the photographer determines his ability to take a frame with the correct exposure in any lighting conditions...

    Photography Lesson 10

    Equivalent exposure pairs

    Let's imagine that you are shooting a portrait and you need a minimum depth of field - you open the aperture completely. To obtain the correct exposure of a photograph for the selected aperture, you need to select the shutter speed. Now, let’s imagine that we went into the shadows. There is less light - the photography conditions have changed... We'll guess correct setting camera or take test shots?

    Photography Lesson 11

    What is ISO in photography and camera?

    Do you know that depending on the characteristics of a particular camera and lens, the available shutter speed and aperture values ​​change, and it may happen that you will not be able to select a suitable exposure pair. If you do not have the opportunity to set the correct exposure pair, you will not be able to get a correctly exposed frame: o(What should you do? Will the frame be ruined by incorrect exposure?

    Photography Lesson 12

    How to take photos with flash

    Why does the built-in flash often turn on in an automatic machine when there is already so much light? Do you know why using the built-in flash in a dark room is not the best option? best idea? How to eliminate the main disadvantages of the built-in flash and how to use an on-camera (external) flash...

    Photography Lesson 13

    Photography in unusual conditions

    How to properly photograph a sunset. How to photograph fireworks or a carousel. Have you been told that you can’t take pictures against the Sun? Available great photos and when photographing against the Sun, if you learn to use...

    Photography Lesson 14

    Camera settings: manual mode M or SCN?

    Many amateur digital cameras do not have a manual shooting mode M and therefore do not allow you to manually adjust the camera. But, there are camera settings that allow you to get around this drawback... But even if your camera has a mode designated by the letter M and you want to quickly master it, then this photography lesson will be especially useful for you - I will explain the logic of choosing exposure settings for often encountering stories.

    Photography Lesson 15

    What is white balance?

    Have you seen color photographs in which all the colors came out with some kind of yellowish or bluish tint? You might think that this camera is not good enough... or something is broken in it... :o) In fact, any working camera (even the most expensive one that shoots in AWB mode can take such photos. It's all about the mysterious for a beginner, a setting that professional photographers often shorten to two letters - BB...

    And yet: how to photograph your first photo masterpiece. Application of these simple rules And practical advice photography will very soon allow you to photograph your first photo masterpiece.

    In my opinion, calling photo lessons or photo courses lessons/courses “for beginners” is quite funny... after all, professionals often get by without much training. However, for professionals and the most “advanced” amateurs there are master classes, which will also be presented on our website in the future.

    Choose a camera (be it a SLR camera or another), and then learn how to use it, understand the intricacies of constructing a composition in a frame, process them in Photoshop - figure it all out - our site will help you. Have you been looking for DSLR photography lessons? Set out in simple and in clear language? For free? You found them! Do you want to use your compact camera 100%? And we will try to help with this! After all, not everything depends on technology!

    Of course, our recommendations and tips are not a panacea, and everyone who decides to devote their time to studying photography should understand this! However, determination, perseverance, and a thirst for creativity will be your helpers!

    The main idea of ​​this section is that the art of digital photography for beginners to learn it should be presented to the student in the best possible way - accessible, popular, systematized. All lessons on our website are free, on the one hand this is good, on the other hand you need self-motivation. I hope that you have it and that the lessons are free will only be a plus!

    IN this moment- Lessons cover the following topics:

    Selecting a camera- a selection of articles will help you figure out which camera is right for you! Of course, attention is also paid to the choice of lens (if you decide to purchase a DSLR) and other photographic accessories.

    Photography Basics, shooting techniques - this section combines materials intended primarily for “dummies” who are not yet very familiar with their camera and the “basics” of shooting, it is recommended for study - first of all! The information will be especially relevant for users of SLR cameras. Here you will find information on how to work with your camera (DSLR, or digital point-and-shoot), and the basics of composition.

    Composition- a subsection devoted to issues of composition in photography. After studying the digital photography lessons in this section, you can find out what beautiful Foto- different from not very beautiful, and how to fix it! How to position the subject in the frame, from which side to shoot, and from which - no way in the world! Composition is the most important part of photography!

    Practical advice for a photographer- this part of digital photography lessons will help both beginners and more experienced photographers learn how to put their knowledge into practice and bring their photo ideas to life! Richly illustrated articles - we hope that they will be understandable and interesting for you!

    Later on our website there will be articles devoted to photo processing in graphic editors.