As practice shows, absolutely any knife can be thrown. A table nail, a pennail nail, even a long and sharp nail - it doesn’t matter in the slightest, since the principles are the same everywhere. Only, of course, after several successful throws such an improvised throwing weapon will become loose and dull, so it will no longer stick into the target as quickly. It can also be difficult to balance, since all these cutting objects are extremely rarely balanced. Therefore, it is to study knife throwing It’s best to use specialized throwing knives, which can be bought at any military store. If you can handle them normally, then any other knife will no longer be a problem for you. But let's start from the beginning. So 5 basic rules throwing knives. Yes, in this case we are talking about reverse throwing, since in flight the knife makes from half to one and a half turns.
Find the center of gravity
To find the center of gravity, try to balance the knife on your finger. A weapon ideal for throwing knives, it is located at the geometric center. But if the center of gravity is shifted, it doesn’t matter. However, this must be taken into account in the future if you want the knife to fly exactly to the target.
Estimate the distance
Depending on how many meters separate you from the target, the capture point for throwing knives. Typically, a distance of three to four meters is used - in this case, the knife has time to turn 180 degrees in flight and enter the target with a sharpened blade. And this is exactly what the calculation should be.
Take the knife correctly
Use your thumb and forefinger to grasp the knife at the found center of gravity. Use your remaining fingers to press the blade into your palm. The cutting edge, of course, should be directed outward. There is no need to press hard. Don't care about your hands either. This will increase friction and reduce control of the thrown weapon. This grip is recommended for standard distances. If it is less than three meters, take the knife closer to the tip. If the distance is from four to five, then the grip should be closer to the handle. Well, if the distance of throwing knives exceeds five meters, then immediately take the knife by the handle. In this case, the knife will make about one and a half turns in flight, so it will be able to stick into the target normally.
Get into the correct stance
If you are right-handed, then place your left leg slightly forward, and move your right hand with the knife clamped back and up. The wrist should not be bent. You also cannot unclench your fingers at the moment of throwing, since they play the role of a pistol barrel - they help guide throwing weapon exactly where it is planned.
Throw correctly
Immediately at the moment of leaving your hand, the knife should not be positioned horizontally, but at a slight angle to the vertical. Yes, it is precisely due to this that it is given a torque impulse, which ensures sticking into the target. Therefore, throwing should be carried out when the hand with the knife is somewhere at head level. There is no need to squat and throw your hand as far forward as possible, since in this case the knife will not have time to turn 180 degrees and will not be able to stick anywhere.
Actually, that's all. Nothing complicated, but only practice will make you skilled throwing knives perfect. So take your knives and head into the forest, fortunately the weather is already permitting.
Throwing knives, as the name suggests, are special knives designed for throwing. There are many types of them, varying in weight, size and design, but they all have one thing in common - they are designed to be thrown at a target.
This highly concentrated activity not only relieves stress when you need a release, but also develops spatial coordination and eye control. In addition, it will help you make a bunch of new connections, of course, if you don’t throw your knife anywhere. There are a considerable number of knife throwing clubs, among which competitions are even held. In addition to the knife itself and the target, you will need a huge supply of patience - only persistent training will allow you to master this useful skill. And we will tell you about everything else that you should about this purely male hobby.
Knife selection
The success of any enterprise depends on the right tool. Knife throwing is no exception. When choosing a knife, you need to rely on the relationship of three factors: weight, length and balance. Most throwers prefer knives weighing from 250 to 450 grams and a length from 25 to 38 cm. The larger the knife, the more difficult it is to twist it when throwing, so beginners are usually advised to take knives slightly smaller than what is written here.Hello, friends!
I would like to bring to your attention a bare copy-paste. I have come across this text several times and in different sources. In the magazine “prorez” for 2000 there is a shaggy year, on Shirogorov’s office and somewhere else. Sentences and paragraphs were rearranged, but the essence remained unchanged and very IMHO correct. And it doesn’t matter anymore who stole Maryanko from Shigorov or vice versa. If they can do it, then I will do it too. I think the old knife wolves won’t learn much new, but it will be interesting for beginners.
Despite the fact that everyone’s knife requirements are different, there are a number of mistakes and misconceptions that almost everyone repeats – and both beginners and people with extensive experience are often mistaken.
Let's look at the 10 most popular mistakes when choosing a knife, so in the end you can clearly decide which knife you personally need.
1. Captivated by versatility.
The desire of many manufacturers to make a universal knife is commendable, in contrast to the results of their activities. In practice, it turns out that the knife has a saw with which it is impossible to saw through anything, files that instantly “go bald”, compasses that show north every time different sides and other “useful” things. And the square hollow handles in which the NAZ (emergency reserve) is stored would seem to be a great idea, but in practice the handle instantly rubs bloody calluses, and the NAZ is best assembled by yourself and fastened more securely - you can even lose the knife along with your backpack, for example , since few people want to wear this miracle on their belt, the situations are different.
Massive guards do not make it any easier to work with a heavy knife when setting up a camp - note that traditional machetes are made without a guard - yes, this is not so safe for an untrained person, but much more functional for any sensible person who does not grab the blade with his hands.
2. Captured by size.
Many people sincerely believe that the larger the utility knife, the better it is. A kind of cleaver, the length of which is half a meter, looks most attractive. How to perform purely everyday tasks like peeling potatoes? How about cleaning the fish? Iron argument - and the bear will come, what to do? It breaks down due to unforgiving practice - such a knife helps few people against a bear, here a larger caliber is better.
Even archaeologists confirm that in all centuries, universal knives were not knives large sizes– and it doesn’t matter what material the knives were made of. According to the results of archaeological research, the traditional length of a universal knife ranges from 6 to 20 cm, the more popular length was 6-9 cm, the width of the knife is usually 1-2 cm, the thickness of the spine is 3-6 times thinner than the width value.
Yes, undoubtedly, there were large knives, but they were not universal, but special - for setting up a camp and as a weapon.
And universal knives for everyday work have always been small and convenient.
Many people recommend two knives - a large and a small utility knife. But in Russia, the option of combining a knife and an ax is considered more popular and practical. Often, despite more weight ax, only with its help can you fully and quickly set up a camp.
3. In strong captivity.
Durability for many has become a kind of standard for the suitability and “coolness” of a knife. As a result, not even knives are born, but rather objects that have an external resemblance to knives. Thick pieces of iron with a spine more than 5 mm thick and a knife size of 25 cm are impressive. Yes, many survival experts believe that you can pry off a manhole cover with a knife (probably their taiga is well-equipped). How applicable is the requirement of fantastic strength to a utility knife? In ordinary life, you don’t have to use a knife to dismantle wheels and press out doors. Probably, the ideal for such a super strong knife could be a regular pry bar - it’s surprisingly strong and can withstand anything (not everything, of course, some even break pry bars). But how can you peel the same potatoes or gut fish with such a heavy and incredibly thick knife? Do you think this is convenient? Then try to do this at least at home in the kitchen in a comfortable environment.
In addition, thin does not mean fragile. At proper operation with a knife specifically for cutting, and not as a crowbar, knives serve for years!
The weight of a knife plays an important role when hiking, when you have to carry everything yourself. And 200 gr. permanent excess weight this is sometimes quite a lot. Especially if it's useless weight.
4. Captured by hardness.
“Look how hard the knife is!” - one of the most favorite reasons for boasting. After all, some simple criterion is needed, but for simplicity, many focus on the hardness of the steel from which the knife blade is made.
Knives made of very soft steel - 50 Rockwell units lose their sharpness very quickly, and many try to get a knife made of steel with high hardness - sometimes reaching up to 64 Rockwell units.
And it is completely overlooked that with such a high hardness the knife is very difficult to operate. Very often, the owners of such knives do not realize how fragile the cutting edge on the blade is and calmly open cans with a knife, the blade of which, due to improper loading, is in a hurry to crumble and then presents a pitiful sight - instead of a beautiful cutting edge, the owner sees a jagged, torn edge that rather saws, than it cuts. And attempts at self-sharpening are disastrous - such steels, as a rule, are sharpened with diamond abrasives, which, if used incorrectly, leave very deep grooves on the steel and do not create the most stable cutting edge. Sharpening with traditional abrasives, if possible, takes a very long time. long time– it will take hours before things start to work out.
The last thing you want is to be somewhere far from civilization to constantly be with a dull knife and waste time sharpening it, and quick sharpening with coarse diamond abrasives (if you carry them with you) will only lead to insufficient sharpness of the cutting edge and premature wear of the knife. for constant editing on coarse abrasives.
Therefore, the optimal hardness for a utility knife ranges from 56-57 for stainless steels, and up to 60 Rockwell units for carbon steels. Which one to choose is a personal choice for everyone - stainless steel is much less demanding in terms of maintenance, and carbon steels hold an edge longer and cut more pleasantly.
5. Captured by brands.
Many people believe that only well-known companies produce good knives. Yes, many world famous knife brands make good knives. But in our age, the owner’s name on a product no longer always means the high quality of the knife. More and more companies are locating their production in countries with cheap labor.
And yet small companies, founded by enthusiasts, never ceases to amaze with more and more new knives made from excellent materials, and companies with great history More and more people are thinking about how to do more and cheaper.
Many famous knife makers work either on their own or with a small team, while the queue for knives is usually scheduled for 1-2 years and the point is not at all in the exclusivity of such knives (although this is also present), it’s in the attitude of the master to the knife - he really invests in it part of his soul, and not just soullessly slap him in the molds.
Many private craftsmen in Russia make amazing folding knives - both in terms of working and artistic characteristics; it is not at all necessary to order a knife somewhere overseas in order to get a knife made with soul, made for you taking into account your requirements, one that is more no one will have it.
Therefore, in no case should you disparage small manufacturers or craftsmen who make knives on their own; believe me, no assembly line at a large factory will make such soulful knives.
6. Captured by finances.
Good things don't come cheap! Fair point. But focusing only on price is unreasonable; a knife for 3 thousand rubles and a knife for 60 thousand will differ in the quality of the cut by more than 20 times.
Many excellent knives have a price in the range of 700-3000 rubles. Scandinavian knives from the brands Mora, Eka and others are especially good. These are excellent and reliable all-rounders, you won’t boast about them in company, but they will become your reliable companion and will help you out more than once. Excellent “workhorses” among knives - thoughtful and functional designs, you will not be disappointed if you prefer Scandinavian knives, which are made by people with colossal practical application and a rich knife culture.
And if you accidentally lose or damage a knife, you won’t have to worry too much - the amount is not fantastic, you’ll go and buy yourself another one.
7. Captured by a stereotype - a folding knife is not serious.
Many people consider folding knives to be capricious and completely unsuitable for use outside urban conditions.
This is partly true. But if the knife is used only as a knife, then a folding option may be good. A folding knife takes up little space, is lightweight, often contains several tools, and there will be no problems with the police - but very often the police confiscate large knives from tourists, the return of which is always accompanied by hassle, and the vacation will definitely be ruined. And no ECC and test reports and conclusions are valid, a repeat examination will be required - to be honest, many simply do not want to get involved and the seized knife may well be appropriated by unscrupulous people from the police.
With a folding knife, despite small sizes, it is quite possible to cut large animal – experienced hunter, well acquainted with the anatomy of animals, this can easily be accomplished. Even with one multitool you can cut up an elk - a video on this topic was once popular in narrow circles.
IN South America Okapi folding knives are very popular among the population, Opinel is popular in France, these knives can be bought without problems in Russia.
Take a closer look at them - excellent quality knives for little money, light and compact - great for picnics.
8. Captive of factory fantasies.
Many people believe that only in a factory setting is it possible to make a good knife. This myth is actively supported by many manufacturers - both Russian and foreign. But while foreign knife products can truly boast excellent examples, mass-produced Russian knives are increasingly causing disappointment. Poor quality of fit, ill-conceived designs and, worst of all, poor and unstable heat treatment of the blades.
Often Russian manufacturers, in response to criticism of quality, say: “Are our knives bad? Just look at what individual craftsmen sculpt!”
In fairness, we admit that many sincerely believe that the best knife is obtained from a cutting saw, two rolls of blue electrical tape and half an hour of work on the sharpener. The result is something like a Stone Age knife made from modern materials.
Fortunately, such knives are not the majority - hundreds of craftsmen in Russia make knives for a wide variety of tastes, but they criticize knives, often forgetting that the master does not himself develop the concept of a knife, but embodies the wishes of the customer, often very far from the world of knives.
But when a master has freedom of creativity, then masterpieces are born - both high-quality, reliable working knives and simply works of art.
Here, more than anywhere else, the joke that professionals built the Titanic, and an amateur built the ark, is appropriate.
As for high-quality materials, an extremely wide range of materials for making knives is available to the individual craftsman - both materials for the handle - all kinds of exotic plants that can be found - literally from all countries of the world of all colors and shades, and steel - from personally forged strips of steel (they are not extinct We also have blacksmiths) and those purchased from the best steel concerns in the world.
Private craftsmen, as a rule, cannot compete on price with a factory assembly line, especially if the knives are assembled in a country with cheap labor, but a private craftsman will listen carefully and make for you exactly the knife you want. No large company can offer you the production of a knife according to your order.
And in general, if we make a comparison, knives from private craftsmen are superior to factory-made knives. Russian ones are superior in quality, and foreign ones are superior in price.
9. Captured by the aura of professionals.
We often pay attention to the equipment of professionals, knives are no exception. Sometimes they give the example of special forces who found this or that knife in their equipment - “Yeah, since these specialists chose a knife, it means it’s the best!” And happily rubbing his hands, a person buys an army Ka-Bar or a bayonet knife, believing that this is the best choice.
In practice, officials in all countries are primarily guided by the quality of the knife and its ease of use when putting a model into service.
Here, the low price and foolproofness, i.e., come to the fore. strength and, as usual, personal interests.
Our classic example is the AKM bayonet; people who have encountered it know that THIS cannot be used as a knife. And the situation has not changed for many years.
Special forces, as a rule, purchase knives on their own - and while foreign soldiers receive enough salary to afford any knife, in Russia everything is not so rosy.
If we analyze which knives are popular among US soldiers, then these are the well-known three - Cold Steel, Benchmade and Spyderco. All three of these companies are not official suppliers of knives to the US army.
In addition, it should be taken into account that in army life a knife is much more often used for domestic purposes - opening a box, cutting food - than for murder. Professionals prefer to work from firearms rather than cutting with a knife.
If it comes to the knife, it means somewhere a mistake was made. And modern combat knives completely unsuitable for everyday use - they are created only for killing, and not for slicing bread.
10. Captured by technology.
Manufacturers are doing their best to promote exclusive steels, which are hardened almost in antelope milk. Assurances of corrosion resistance, extraordinary strength and hardness - all this is pouring down on the consumer like confetti in a New Year, and the abundance of materials on the handles is amazing, the sheath is only made of Kydex (and even though this is rarely convenient, the main thing is technology).
Prices immediately rise exponentially, and producers happily watch their bank accounts fill up.
Yes, a knife made of designer damask steel or damascus is very beautiful, as a collection item - simply wonderful. It’s nice to show off such a knife, but few people dare to work as a work of art.
Therefore, give a sober assessment - how much you are willing to pay to buy a knife for everyday work, and whether you are willing to overpay for the special steels and materials used in the manufacture of such a knife.
Now imagine that you broke or lost the knife? How critical is the loss of its value to you?
If the difference in the cost of a knife is 5 times, their cut does not differ by the same 5 times, and sometimes it is better to separate knives for everyday tasks and knives that will only lie on the shelf.
To summarize, I would like to advise you to listen to your feelings more often and not chase the price tag, brand and fashion. 90% of the tasks that tourists and fisherman face are solved with the help of an inexpensive Scandinavian knife. The shape of these knives has been proven over centuries of use, and modern materials make them extremely practical, and low prices make them affordable.
Original copy-paste
Almost all fixed blade hunting knives in one way or another repeat several classic shapes that developed many hundreds of years ago. By increasing or decreasing the size of the blades, you can get a knife for various functional purposes - from a machete to a miniature scalpel.
Since a hunting knife must be both a piercing tool (the shape and position of the tip) and a cutting tool (the curvature of the cutting edge), these two functions must be somehow balanced in it.
In addition to “balanced” blades with equal cutting and piercing capabilities, there are knives with the advantage of only one of the above functions: either clearly cutting and less piercing, or, conversely, clearly piercing and less cutting, such as blades Nos. 5 and 6 ( Fig. 2).
The hunting knife inherited many of the features of its ancestor - the dagger, the main purpose of which was to deliver strong piercing blows, capable of piercing the joints between armor (and sometimes the armor itself) and pushing apart the rings of chain mail under the force of the blow. This is how it was formed classic shape, for example, the same Caucasian dagger with a narrow and long nose, like an awl.
In addition to such a narrow and long tip for piercing an enemy packed in armor, another quality was required from the shape of the blade - the location of the tip exactly on the line of symmetry, i.e. at the point of application of force.
Only with this geometry was the greatest success achieved in the duel. In hunting knives, the logic of the dagger, of course, is not needed, but some rational qualities (stabbing and cutting abilities) nevertheless migrated there. This is how blade shapes appeared, taking into account both the position of the tip on the axis of symmetry (for ease of piercing) and giving the necessary curvature (bending) to the cutting edge for a smooth and deep cut.
The least “energy-consuming” form in terms of applying piercing forces can be considered a “drop point” type, etc. "pike". The most energy-intensive are blade profiles with a straight spine and trailing point.
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The bending of the cutting edge is an equally important part of the blade geometry, since a hunting knife must not only stab, but also cut, and cut more often than stab. By giving the bend one or another “steepness” or “flatness,” you can make the blade more or less comfortable to cut. For example, sharp curves on the cutting edge are very convenient for skinners.
This curvature of the blade will make smoother and longer cuts (in this case, separating the skin from the muscle layer) than a flatter curvature of the same drop point. With this blade shape, there is less chance of piercing the skin being removed, which is a defect in the work, especially when the skin is captured and then used to make a stuffed animal.
Here we can recall the superiority of the chopping and cutting properties of a curved saber over straight swords. When cutting, a curved checker inflicted deeper and longer wounds than a straight sword, and this property allowed it to for a long time take a leading position among combat edged weapons. The blade of a hunting knife, as a rule, has one of the most popular descents, i.e. transitions from the thickness of the butt to the thickness of the cutting edge, shown in the figure above.
Naturally, the types of blade releases are selected depending on the functional purpose, the size of the knife and the type of steel used. The razor trigger is more often used on small-sized knives exclusively for cutting work, because the relative thinness of the blade experiences less resistance to the material being cut and thus requires less force.
Of course, you should not make chopping blows with this blade even at an absolute perpendicular, because the thin walls of the blade may not withstand the load and will crumble in the form of jagged edges. Excessively deepening such a blade when cutting even into relatively hard materials, such as half-frozen meat, green wood, rubber, dense foam, etc., is also not recommended, because it cannot withstand even minor transverse bends.
The “Lens” type trigger is quite durable, but is more difficult to set and sharpen than simple straight or razor triggers. When sharpening and sharpening such a blade, especially in the field without the appropriate equipment, you can always peel off the convex parts of the “lens” and thus damage appearance blades, or, as they also say, screw up the “mirror”.
For hunting purposes, the most convenient and versatile are double-sided wedge-shaped or straight triggers. They are strong under lateral loads, they can be buried with less fear in the material being cut without the risk of breaking, and even perform chopping movements. When sharpening and adjusting, such bevels are also more convenient, so there is less risk of damaging the mirror, and the process can be done even on your knee.
In addition to shape and size, comfort is important in various ways holding knives in hand or gripping.
Just when cutting the carcass of a medium-sized animal (for example, a roe deer or a wild boar), the knife requires several different grips, which should be equally comfortable and not overwork the hand. There are many types of cutting movements with a knife and, accordingly, types of holding in the hand, but nevertheless, basic or typical movements have developed that are most convenient for this or that work with greater or lesser application of force.
The next very important feature of a good fixed blade knife is its balance or center of gravity position. The comfortable balance of the knife is approximately in the middle, at the place where the guard begins. The presence or absence of correct balance affects primarily how long the hand will not get tired when working with a knife.
Having the right balance is the first sign good quality knife, which you can verify right in the store by placing it on the edge of your palm.
If we try to classify all the many knives that hunters use, then depending on the shape and dimensions we can distinguish the following types.
Type 1. Classic hunting knife. Blade size from 100 to 130 mm. The width of the blade at the base is 30-35 mm. Weight 120-180 g. This is the most versatile knife with any of the listed blade shapes, with the exception of the dagger blade, which can be used to cut and process animal and bird carcasses. The shape and size of the knife are convenient for the largest number grips and performing a variety of cutting and stabbing movements. Typical and popular models: Benchmade 515R, Helle Hunter, Eka Nordic.
Type 2. Large hunting knife (or fishing knife, or survival knife, etc.), blade size from 130-170 mm (or more), weight from 180 to 300 grams (or more). The shape can be almost the same as type 1, but it has much larger dimensions, weight, as well as an enlarged guard and a more grippy handle. The dimensions allow you to perform chopping blows. All working grips like Type 1 are available, but the size and weight make them less comfortable. Characteristic and popular models: Buck Nighthawk, medium-sized Bowie knives.
Type 3. Folding knife, or tourist knife. The dimension is arbitrary. With one or two blades. Convenient for all kinds of small and repair work: cutting rope, making tent pegs, etc. Their main advantage is compactness and portability. Of the typical grips, due to design features, one or two are available. It’s difficult to call these grips comfortable. There is no correct balance for such knives.
Depending on what kind of knife the hunter uses, you can guess what he knows how to do while hunting: either professionally and efficiently butcher the hunted animals and birds, or impress with the size and price of the knife, or make toothpicks for himself.
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TYPES OF GRIP: 1. Scraping. Spiral or linear movements into the palm or towards yourself, as if you were peeling a potato. In this case, the fingers are half-closed on the handle, and the thumb serves as a stop. 2, 3. Cutting-secant. Longitudinal, including saw-tooth movements with emphasis, as if you had to cut a loaf of bread or cut meat on a board. In this case, the handle is held mainly only by the thumb and forefinger, and the palm presses the butt plate of the handle. 4. Stabbing. Piercing movements, sometimes with emphasis on the butt plate of the handle, as if you had to pick out the eyes of a potato or press the blade, like a wedge, into the dismembered body to the maximum depth. Depending on the force applied, the handle is compressed either with all fingers, or, as in example No. 2. 5. Planer. Forceful movements away from you, as if you needed to trim a tree branch. In this case, the fingers are completely closed on the handle. 6. Blade up/blade down. The convenience of holding a knife in this position depends mainly on the shape of the handle. This shape, unless it is symmetrically straight, is not always equally convenient for holding the cutting edge towards you or away from you. |
When hunting, while doing some kind of work, the hunter is almost always in a rather uncomfortable position: half-bent over the carcass, with his arms extended forward, or in some other tense position from which you quickly get tired.
Add to this the effort that must be made to dismember the joints, cut the sternum and other difficult-to-remove parts of the carcass, and you get a complex energy expenditure multiplied by two. Anyone who has ever done such work knows well how much energy it requires even with a well-sharpened and comfortable knife.
In any work, the knife must be very nimble, rotate in the hand like a hinge, and not slip out when trying to intercept it in some other way. In addition to ease of handling, the knife, of course, must be very sharp and “hold” an edge for a long time.
The knife should be comfortable not only when held in the hand in various positions, but also when worn in a sheath on a belt.
In this regard, the sheath-case of the Scandinavian reindeer herders is very convenient, into which the knife fits almost to its full height, leaving only a small part of the butt plate at the top, for which, in fact, it is removed from the sheath. In addition, you can insert and remove a knife from such a case with only one hand, which is very important.
The most convenient place to carry it is not on the right side near the belt, but at the level of the right thigh (hand level), where the knife is lowered down from the waist belt on a special extension strap and fixed at the thigh.
To remove and insert the knife at this level, the least amount of hand movement is required, because the knife is always level right palm. In addition, it is better when the knife is attached to a separate belt, so that it always remains with you, regardless of the change of clothes and the property you are carrying, and does not hang from belt to belt and is not transferred from pocket to pocket. For example, I have a rule: “No knife, only in the sleeping bag.”
A knife for a hunter is a large scalpel, a precise and neat tool with which you would never think of opening cans or chopping nails.
No wonder they say that a knife should be an extension of your hand. This is the feeling that gives you confidence and readiness for any work on the hunt.
These are the questions everyone who enters the world of knife throwing asks themselves, but professionals are also in constant search.
Of course, you can throw nails, scissors, screwdrivers, even ordinary ones working knives, but is it necessary? Knife throwing- this is a noble art, recreation, sport, and in order to get maximum pleasure, and even more so to achieve results, you need to take the choice of a throwing knife seriously.
Let's start with a few myths that have developed in society about throwing knives
Myth 1. A throwing knife is a terrible military weapon that hits anything and everything at a distance of 20 m inclusive. Just lie down and hide
The myth is clearly generated by cinema and various “front-line” stories. In fact, if a person has a knife, he would be the last fool if he throws this knife away. The working distance for the thrower is 3-9 meters. It is possible to move even further away from the target, but it is no longer easy.
Myth 2. It doesn’t matter what you throw and from what distance.
It's very important. Knife, which weighs less than 100-150 grams, is difficult to throw even for trained people, and starting training with it is generally the last thing.
Any plastic handles or the pads will inevitably break and fall off the knife - it's only a matter of time. Any winding is cut off in the same way. Exclusively interfere with throwing all kinds of balancers. They quickly get confused and change the balance, and the knife doesn’t need balancers, frankly speaking. But more on balance later. Any throwing technique, even a non-revolving one, is somehow tied to the distance, and if we make two absolutely identical throws from 3 and 3.5 meters, knives will arrive at the target in completely different ways.
Myth 3. My favorite myth is mercury knives that stick no matter how hard you throw them.
They come up in every other conversation about throwing anything. And almost every self-respecting person has a friend/matchmaker/brother/former commander ( Underline whatever applicable), who personally held them in his hands and even threw them. Especially respected ones literally have a mercury knife in their garage. But after asking to see the friend, the connection with the friend is mysteriously interrupted, and the knife is lost. I have no doubt that the mercury knife exists, but how elusive it is, you bastard. In 10 years of searching, I have never found a single working mercury knife =)
Myth 4. Only balanced knives or knives with some special balance fly well.
A huge misconception.
Exist knives balanced, whose geometric center coincides with the center of gravity and does not balanced– the center of gravity is shifted towards the handle or blade. Knife with balance in handle (the center of gravity is shifted to the handle) will hit the target with greater force when throwing with a grip on the blade, knife with balance blade– when throwing by the handle, and balanced knife enters the target equally with the same force for any throwing method. That makes all the difference.
What parameters should you use to choose a throwing knife?
Unfortunately, today the market is flooded with a large number knives which are called " throwing “, but it’s a stretch to say that they are. I want to talk about the basic principles of selecting a throwing knife. They will help you choose a quality item and not fall for stupid crafts.
The most important characteristic throwing knife– its size and weight.
From an initial distance of 3 meters knives will fly comfortably, no easier 150 g, while already at 5 meters the knife should weigh no less 180-200 g, With 7-9 meters It's better to throw knives that weigh 200-350g. Optimal length throwing knife starts from 200 mm. It’s better to start learning with heavy knives, they “ forgive"The thrower has errors in technique. If the knife is comfortable and heavy enough, learning is easy and enjoyable.
I remember being a teenager when I miraculously found some nameless " throwing » knives in the stall, tried to throw - and was upset, knives They flew poorly and unstably. And then how could I not pull my ears away from the throwing stand in the forge, when I forged my first throwing knives(then there were no good serial ones to be found).
I would call the second most important parameter convenience of the knife.
It is very important that the surface is rough and can be felt well by the hand. All corners must be rounded, the cutting edge must not be sharpened. It is important that knife fit comfortably in your hand with the grip you are going to use for this knife throwing.
Important strength And durability knife.
From a distance of 3 meters knife hits the target with twice the force of a punch. That's why Throwing Knife must be especially durable. Monolithic design, without all kinds of windings and overlays. The thickness of the butt is at least 5-6 mm.
It is important to pay special attention to steel and its heat treatment. The optimal steels are: stainless steel 420, 40Х13, 65Х13 as well as carbon steel 30ХГСА and 65Г. Hardness throwing knife recommended in the area 40-45 Rockwell units. If the hardness is less, the knife will bend; if it is more hard, it may break.
Now about throwing technique
It’s not difficult to master it even on your own.
For this we need:
- set from 3-6 identical throwing knives(length not less than 200 mm, weight from 150 g),
- target– a simple dry tree will do, but it’s better to make full stand. It is much easier to learn with it (see video about the stand below)
- tape measure for measuring distance
- fundamentals of technique and training.
There are three main techniques:
- Sports(axe technique) - grip the tip of the handle
- Free(reverse) – with a grip blade or handle
- Non-negotiable– a grip on the blade, in which the knife hits the target without making a revolution.
All techniques are tied to distance, so we begin our training by marking distances. We retreat 3 meters from the target ( This is where a tape measure comes in handy). This is the base distance we'll start with. I’ll make a reservation that over time we will learn to determine our distance of 3, 4, 5 meters by eye, but first it’s better to count and mark exactly on the tape measure.
Sports equipment the simplest
Let's take a stance. For right-handers - left foot in front, toe at the three-meter mark, right behind. Let's take it knife by the handle to a depth of about 4 cm. We swing from the shoulder so that the arm runs parallel to the body, and release the knife just above the aiming point. We release it easily, without squeezing the handle too tightly. And, if everything is done correctly, the knife sticks out at the target.
If the knife does not hit the target parallel to the ground, and the handle is tilted upward, then it twisted, you should take the next knife a little deeper. If the knife came with the handle down, this is underrotated, which means we take the next one a little less deeply. In the same way when torsion you can get a little closer to the target, without changing grip, and when under-rotated- move away.
Having determined the required distance and grip, we remember them and then work on the uniformity of movement.
Principle free technology same, different distance and grip
We take the knife by the blade from the butt side so that the fingers do not fall on the conventional cutting edge. The tip of the blade protrudes slightly from the clenched palm. The swing is also from the shoulder, but we do not turn the hand further. The knife should fly out of your hand at an upward angle of 45 degrees. We also take the handle to the full length of the palm.
When throwing by the blade, the initial distance is 3-3.5 m, when throwing by the handle - 4.5-5 m
Non-revolving technology a little more complicated
It’s easier to start with short distances of 1.5-2 m.
Basics shown in video
Quality throwing knives serve for a very long time - tens of years. However, they also require care.
An indispensable consequence of throwing is the appearance of burrs when hit knife-to-knife . As soon as a burr appears, it must be cut down immediately with a file, otherwise the next time you throw it, a cut and a splinter are guaranteed.
If knife made of carbon steel, after each workout it is important to wipe it dry, and during long-term storage - lubricate it with oil. In this sense knives made of corrosion-resistant steel have an advantage.
- When throwing outdoors, it is better to mark knife handle bright electrical tape to make it easier to find.
- Even if you're great throw, start your workout with smooth throws and minimal distances - let your muscles and ligaments warm up.
- Focus not on strength, but on accuracy of the throw.
- Keep in mind that if the ligaments are not warmed up throw shortens, which means that if at the beginning of training you hit the target from 3.5 m, then at the end you will be able to move away 4 m.
- Let your brain and body negotiate. If you can't, take a break. Learning does not happen in the moment throwing, and after it.
- Don't skimp on targets, study and subsequently throw It’s easier and more enjoyable when the target is large.
- Look for like-minded people!