Caring for indoor flowers is a troublesome task, but extremely enjoyable. Their growth and flowering depends on how you care for your home flowers.

Houseplants need your care to meet their basic needs. Leave them in deep shade or without water and they will die. They will gradually wither away without food, and almost all varieties should be kept in a frost-free environment.

Proper care of houseplants involves providing them with heat, light, water and nutrients. When growing and caring for some flowers, they additionally require increased air humidity, fresh air, protection from drafts, etc. There are rules for caring for indoor plants that are not necessary for the life of the plant. These are simple procedures such as pruning, shaping and cleaning to make plants look their best.

Rules for caring for indoor plants

Success in growing flowers at home requires neither hard work nor great skill. However, you should follow the rules for caring for indoor plants. Remember that extremes in watering, nutrition, etc. can destroy plants. Do not forget also that there is a dormant period, usually in winter, when much less water, food and heat are required. Remove dead leaves and wilted flowers and watch for pests and diseases. Pity the poor outdoor gardeners who must work in wind and rain to dig holes, hoe weeds and mow lawns!

Before caring for indoor flowers, observe them. Spend a couple of minutes every few days looking closely at the leaves, stems and compost. By touching the compost you will know when watering is required. The appearance of the foliage will tell you that something is wrong with watering, temperature, lighting, nutrition or air humidity. Some people grow houseplants for years without actually looking at them or bothering to find out what the leaves can tell them.

Caring for indoor plants: temperature regime

Most indoor plants came to us from warm regions of the world. This has led many people to the mistaken belief that these plants require temperatures higher than normal room temperature. In fact, few plants will grow well in normal indoor conditions at temperatures above 24°C.

Almost all indoor plants will need a temperature of 13-24°C. Some grow quite successfully in rooms that are a little cool from the point of view of human comfort. There are exceptions to this general rule of houseplant care - many flowering potted plants need a maximum temperature of 16°C in winter, and some heat-loving varieties require a minimum of 16°C.

Most plants can tolerate temperatures slightly higher or lower than they prefer for short periods. The real enemy is excessive temperature fluctuations. For most plants, a drop in temperature of 3-6°C at night is beneficial, but a sudden cooling of 11°C can cause harm or death. It may be necessary to move pots from windowsills in frosty weather.

Cacti and succulents are an exception. Large temperature fluctuations do not pose a problem for them because in their desert homeland they have adapted to hot days and cold nights.

How to care for house flowers: light mode

There are two aspects to lighting. The first is duration. Almost all plants require 12-16 hours of daylight or fairly strong artificial light to maintain active growth. A shorter duration of illumination will slow down the synthesis of nutrients, and that is why the dormant period of deciduous plants in winter is not disturbed by bright but short sunny days.

The second aspect is the intensity of the light regime - in contrast to the duration, the need for it varies from plant to plant. Some varieties grow well on a sunny windowsill, but quickly decline in a shady corner; others will grow in light shade but cannot survive in direct sunlight.

When walking from a sunny window to the corner of the room, you will walk about 2.5 m into the shadow. Walking with your back to the window, you may not notice much change, but the light intensity will drop by about 95% over this short distance.

The leaves and stems of plants on the windowsill lean towards the glass. To prevent one-sided growth, you need to turn the pot from time to time. Make only a small turn at a time. Do not turn the pot of a flowering plant while it is in bud.

A flowering plant will suffer if it is moved from a place with recommended lighting to a shady one. The quality and quantity of colors depend on both the duration and intensity of illumination. Without adequate lighting, foliage may grow beautifully, but flower decoration will inevitably disappoint.

An ornamental leaf plant can be suddenly moved from its ideal position to a shady location without negative consequences. It will survive, but will not develop. Move him back to the lighted area for about a week every 1-2 months to allow him to recuperate.

The plant should not be suddenly moved from a shady location to a sunny windowsill or outdoor garden. Allow it to acclimatize for several days, moving it to a lighter location every day.

Growing and caring for indoor flowers: air humidity

When you turn on the radiator, which warms up the cold air in winter, the room becomes comfortable, but the amount of water vapor in the air decreases. The air becomes “dry”, that is, the relative humidity of the air drops, so growing and caring for indoor flowers in such conditions is very difficult.

In general, houseplants need less warm air and more humid air than you think. Central heating in the dead of winter gives the air the relative humidity of the Sahara Desert. Plants are rarely able to develop normally in such conditions - many ornamental foliage and most flowering plants will suffer if the air humidity around the leaves is insufficient. You can avoid the problem by finding a damp place for your plants, such as the kitchen or bathroom.

You can use a humidifier to increase the relative humidity in the entire room. However, it is much more common to use methods that create a humid microclimate around the plants, while the atmosphere in the rest of the room remains dry as before.

There are three main ways to increase air humidity around plants. They are described on this page. For plants that originated from the jungle, these methods may not be enough to ensure their active growth in a centrally heated room.

Such plants will take advantage of the humid atmosphere of the garden under glass. A useful way to keep phalaenopsis in bloom for many months is with an orchidarium. Place a 5cm layer of expanded clay on the bottom of a regular glass aquarium and place pots on it. Pour water to cover the bottom half of the expanded clay layer - do not cover the entire layer. It is necessary to ensure that the water level in the lower part of the orchidarium is maintained approximately at the middle of the expanded clay level.

Spraying when growing indoor flowers

Spray with warm water in the morning to allow the foliage to dry before dark. Do not spray in bright sunlight. Misting provides more than a temporary increase in humidity. It cools on hot sunny days, prevents the spread of red spider mites and reduces dust deposits on the leaves.

Plants grown in pots and indoor gardens have increased humidity around the leaves. The best way to increase air humidity is to use a pebble tray. Make sure there is enough space between plants to avoid gray mold.

Using a double pot when growing indoor flowers

When growing home flowers, it is best to purchase a double pot. This will provide constant soil moisture necessary for good plant growth. True, this recommendation does not apply to cacti - they do not need constant soil moisture.

Place the pot in an external waterproof container and fill the space between them with damp compost. Keep this material completely and constantly moist so that water is always evaporating from its surface, increasing the relative humidity of the air.

Feeding indoor plants with nutrients

Feeding houseplants with nutrients is necessary to maintain sufficient amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the soil with a small amount of microelements.

In the garden, fertilizer is usually used to replenish nutrients in the soil, but even without fertilizer, the plant can continue to use nutrients from the soil by spreading new roots. Indoors the situation is completely different. Compost in a pot contains a limited amount of nutrients and is constantly being depleted by the plant's roots and leaching through drainage holes. During active plant growth, it is necessary to feed them regularly as soon as the nutrients are exhausted. Cacti can survive without feeding for long periods of time, but vigorous ornamental foliage and flowering plants can suffer serious damage if they are not fed.

Composts contain sufficient nutrients for approximately 2 months after transplanting. After this, the vegetating plants will need to be fed. Regular fertilizing is required during the growing and flowering season - from spring to autumn for ornamental foliage and most flowering plants, and in winter for winter-flowering species. During the dormant period, fertilizing should be reduced.

Fertilizers for indoor plants are almost always complex, containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. There are universal fertilizers, but there are also special preparations for cacti, citrus fruits and ferns. It is better to feed orchids with preparations recommended specifically for them.

What fertilizers are there for indoor flowers?

The question of what fertilizers for indoor flowers can be purchased in specialized stores worries many plant growers. As a rule, all fertilizers consist of three basic components: potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus. In addition, all fertilizers for house plants contain microelements. However, it is necessary to take into account the fact that each individual plant needs different ratios of these elements. Therefore, when purchasing fertilizers for indoor flowers, carefully read the instructions and make a conclusion whether this drug is suitable for your plants.

Food for indoor flowers: tablets and granules

There are slow-release fertilizers for feeding indoor flowers in tablets and granules. They are placed on the surface or buried in compost where they slowly release their nutrients over a period of time. This is convenient, but the supply of fertilizers cannot be adjusted according to the season, and their distribution in the compost is uneven. These problems do not arise with liquid fertilizers.

What fertilizers to feed indoor plants

There is general agreement that the most effective way to feed potted indoor plants is to use a liquid fertilizer. Watering and feeding are carried out in one operation - the recommended amount of fertilizer is added to the water and applied during watering. Such fertilizers for indoor plants allow you to avoid overfeeding, and if necessary, the amount of fertilizers can be reduced or eliminated. In order to correctly decide what fertilizer to feed indoor plants, carefully read the instructions and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Fertilizing indoor flowers using a dropper bottle

Dropper bottles are a type of automatic feeding that has appeared in recent years. In order to fertilize indoor flowers in this way, you need to insert a plastic bottle with the neck diluted with fertilizer into the compost. It’s original, but it can look ugly in the composition and, as in the case of tablets, the distribution of nutrients in the pot is uneven.

Polishing the leaves of indoor plants when growing and caring for flowers

Dust spoils the appearance of foliage and blocks leaf pores. It forms a screen that reduces light, and in some industrial areas it may contain chemicals that damage plants. Therefore, dust, when it becomes visible on the leaves, must be removed. Usually the leaves are washed with clean water using a syringe or sponge. Wash your plants early in the day to allow them to dry before dark. If the foliage is very dirty, lightly wipe it with a soft cloth before washing. If you do not do this, then when the water dries, difficult to wash off stains will remain. Remember to support the leaves with your hand when washing. For young foliage, it is better to use a syringe rather than a sponge. Cacti, succulents and plants with hairy leaves do not need to be sprayed or washed - use a soft brush to remove dust.

Even clean foliage usually begins to look dull and faded with age. Many substances are suitable for polishing the leaves of indoor plants, but you should be careful when choosing them. Olive oil adds shine, but it also collects dust.

It is best to purchase a product made specifically for plants. Aerosols are easy to use and most convenient. Liquid preparations are used carefully, wiping the leaves with the soaked liquid. Ready-made polishing wipes are popular.

Young leaves should not be polished and the surface of the leaves should never be pressed. Before use, read the label - it will contain a list of plants that do not need to be treated.

How to prune indoor flowers: pruning plants at home

Trimming indoor flowers is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first. The growth point of the stem is removed by pinching. This is done with the thumb and index finger or scissors. Pruning is the removal of excess growth. To do this, use pruners or scissors. Cleaning refers to the removal of dead leaves, damaged parts and wilted flowers.

Pinching is used to encourage branching in bushy and hanging plants such as coleus, tradescantia and pilea. Pruning is used on some climbing plants to achieve the opposite effect. Select one or more main shoots and shape them as required by the design; weak side shoots are carefully cut out at the point where they depart from the main stem.

The appearance of many plants soon deteriorates if they are not regularly trimmed and cleaned. Pruning of indoor plants such as vines, ivy and climbing philodendron is done in the spring. At the same time, stems with abnormally small and pale leaves are removed. Always trim overlong branches and old leafless stems. Removing spent flowers can extend the flowering period of many species.

Before you prune your indoor flowers, invest in good, sharp scissors. Prune flowering plants with care - there are no general rules for them. Some, such as fuchsias, geraniums and hydrangeas, produce flowers on new growth. Others bloom on last year's shoots.

Caring for indoor flowers and photos of molding house plants

When caring for indoor flowers, molding plays a decisive role in providing the stems with maximum decorativeness. This is definitely necessary for climbing plants. This is also necessary for houseplants with long, weak stems (for example, fatsheders), heavy inflorescences (for example, hydrangeas) and brittle stems (for example, balsam).

Don't tie the plant to a single stake - use frames with three or four sticks instead. The pegs should reach the bottom of the pot.

As you can see in the photo, when caring for indoor flowers, there are many other supports for installation in a pot. For example, trellises, moss sticks and wire hoops. There are also wire or wood vine structures installed outside the pot.

Do not tie the stems too close to the support. Tie up the new growth while it is not too long and bends well. Clinging vines must be tied up frequently, otherwise the tendrils will tie the stems together.

Dishes. Houseplants are grown in pots or tubs with the top wider than the bottom; sometimes they are grown in wide bowls, i.e. low pots. This shape makes it easy to knock out plants from the container when transplanting.

Flowerware has a certain ratio between width and height. For most indoor plants, use dishes whose top width is approximately 5/4 of the height. It is preferable to grow plants such as palm trees, roses, lilies in deeper containers, in which the width of the upper part is equal to the height of the container or slightly less than it. Other plants, such as cyclamen and bulbous plants, are best kept in lower pots or bowls in which the width of the upper part is 1 1/2 - 2 times the height.

The pots and bowls are clay, well-fired, with drainage holes in the bottom: pots with one, bowls with three. Earthenware, glazed and metal dishes, as well as those painted with oil paint, are not suitable for growing indoor plants, since the walls of such dishes do not allow air to pass through.

Before planting plants in them, new pots are well soaked, and old ones are thoroughly washed in hot water and dried over a fire. Pots in which plants are grown should be washed on the outside 3-4 times annually with hot water and soap with a stiff brush, and then rinsed with clean water.

The tubs are made of pine or oak, as they are more durable. Boxes are sometimes used instead of tubs. For better flow of excess water during watering and for air access, tubs are made with legs, and boxes with slats; There should be several drainage holes in the bottom.

Transfer. Indoor plants are periodically handled to improve nutritional conditions. Stunting in growth, yellowing of leaves or loss of dark green color, formation of underdeveloped shoots and leaves, as well as very small flowers, premature flowering, sharp reduction in growth, shortening of the flowering period, early shedding of flowers, bulging of an earthen lump from the pot, appearance on the surface after watering earthworms - all this indicates the need to replant the plant.

The appearance of the plant always corresponds to the state of the earthen coma and root system. Therefore, to determine the need for replanting, the plant with a lump of earth is removed from the container and inspected. The lump is removed from the pot by overturning the plant and tapping the edge of the pot against the foot or hitting the bottom of the pot with the palm of your hand. A strong entanglement of a clod of earth with a layer of roots always indicates the need for replanting.

All young plants need annual replanting. Adult and large tub plants are replanted after 5-6 years or less. The need to replant them is judged by the condition of the tub and is often replanted only after it has rotted. Frequent replanting of such plants weakens their growth.

Evergreens are replanted with a clod of earth. It is also risky to replant adult deciduous plants without a clod of soil, since the uprooting system damaged during replanting does not fully provide water to the plants that have begun to grow. In this case, severe pruning of the crown branches is necessary.

The best time to replant evergreen plants is from the second half of February to May, and deciduous plants during their dormant period (spring or autumn). If necessary, you can replant without damaging the coma (transfer) at any time of the year. Flowering plants are replanted after flowering, deciduous bulbous plants - after the leaves turn yellow.

When replanting with an increase in the amount of soil, choose pots larger than the previous ones in diameter by 2-3 centimeters, tubs - depending on the type of plant and the power of its development - by 4-6 centimeters or more. When transplanting plants with a poorly developed or diseased, rotten root system, the dishes are left the same size, and with severe pruning of the roots, leading to a significant reduction in the coma, the size of the dishes is reduced by 2-3 centimeters.

When planting, the clod of earth is freed from small fibrous soil intertwined with roots, cutting them off along the surface of the clod (Fig. 5). Thick and weakly branched roots are not disturbed, and if they rot, they are cut off to a healthy place. Thick root cuts are sprinkled with charcoal powder. The top, leached layer of earth from the lump is removed, a sharpened wooden peg is used to loosen the lump to the sides, the shard with the old drainage is removed and freed from soured earth, which emits a musty smell, if there is any.

Place a shard with the convex side up on the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot or tub and then pour a layer of drainage made of coarse sand and pieces of turf. The drainage is broken, depending on the size of the dishes, from 0.5 (in pots) to 3-5 centimeters (in tubs).

The composition and amount of soil during transplantation is taken in accordance with the requirements of the plant. The soil is poured into a small cone onto the drainage, after which the prepared lump of the transplanted plant is lowered so that the root collar (the former hypocotyledon, the place where the root passes into the stem) is slightly below the edges of the pot. When planting plants, you need to ensure that the root collar is not deeply buried in the ground or raised above it, as this complicates the normal digging and development of the young plant. With your left hand you hold the plant at the root collar, and with your right hand you add soil. The space between the lump and the walls of the dish is gradually filled with earth and compacted with a soot stick (Fig. 6). To more evenly fill the space with soil, from time to time the pot or tub is tapped with the bottom on the table.

The degree of soil compaction during habit has a significant impact on the growth and flowering of plants, therefore, for better growth, the plant is planted looser, and for good flowering, denser.

Large woody plants (palm trees, privet and other evergreens) are planted very densely.

The transplanted plants are watered and placed in a warm place and slightly shaded for the rooting period. Transplants usually cause a rather long (before rooting) growth arrest.

Transshipment. It differs from transplantation in that the earthen ball is not disturbed and the root system is almost not disturbed. Plants mature once or twice at a young age, sometimes more, during one growing season. They transship only to increase the amount of land. The need for it is determined by the presence of a large entanglement of the earth with roots.

At each transshipment, the top leached layer of soil is removed, the drainage is removed from below and the size of the dishes is increased by 2-3 centimeters.

The transshipped plant is kept under the same conditions as before transshipment, and only in the presence of bright sunlight is it slightly shaded, and watering in the first days after transshipment is reduced.

During transshipment, growth almost does not stop, and then intensifies, but the development of the plant slows down, flowering is postponed to a later date. By transshipment, to a certain extent, you can regulate the flowering time of plants, delaying it with a large number of transshipments and speeding it up by reducing the number of transshipments. A large number of transshipments makes it possible to obtain a more powerful, abundantly flowering plant.

WATERING AND SPRAYING.

The need for water varies depending on the type, variety, and phase of plant development. During the period of increased growth, the plant contains and requires more water than during the dormant period.

Water is part of the plant body; mineral salts are dissolved in it, which enter the plant through the root system. Thanks to the evaporation of water through the leaves, the temperature of the plants decreases, which is especially important if they overheat on hot summer days.

Often on hot sunny summer days, evaporation reaches such proportions that the root system is unable to replenish water consumption. Sometimes even increased watering does not help. In such cases, along with watering, it is necessary to resort to spraying the plants and shading from direct rays of the sun.

Most flowering plants grow well in high soil moisture, but bloom better in low humidity. As the volume of soil in pots decreases, the plant needs more water.

The vital activity of plants is equally negatively affected by both a lack of moisture and its excess. Plants grow and develop best when they are completely satisfied with water, which is not always easy to determine.

Good water conditions for plants are achieved not only by supplying a certain amount of moisture, but also by correctly selecting a mixture of soil that can hold water well and provide it to the plants, arranging for good drainage of excess water, etc. Under these conditions, even excessive watering does not create excessive moisture.

In practice, when determining the need to water potted plants, the following instructions are used: the walls of a pot with wet soil, when struck with a click, make a dull sound, and with dry soil, a ringing sound. It is easier to lift a pot with dry soil than with wet soil; When wet, the soil has a darker color, and when it dries, it acquires a grayish tint. The humidity of the soil in the pot is also determined by touch.

The appearance of small green moss and lichens on the surface of the earth in pots and tubs indicates prolonged waterlogging and lack of light.

Land with poor physical properties (silty, compacted soil) and poor drainage with a dry top layer may have damp lower layers and vice versa.

The moisture required for the plant is maintained by watering the earthen clod and spraying the plant. Watering a plant is not difficult, but maintaining the necessary air humidity is most often impossible, since the air humidity required by the plant significantly exceeds the sanitary and hygienic standards of a living room. However, abundant watering, water in saucers and spraying of plants in hot weather significantly improve growth conditions. Abrupt transitions from excessively moistening the clod to drying it out are unacceptable, as this often leads to the shedding of leaves and flower buds.

In summer, almost all plants need to be watered abundantly, in winter - less. Potted plants are watered so that the water saturates the entire lump and a slight excess flows out through the drainage hole.

In spring and summer, plants can be watered at any time of the day, in autumn and winter - only in the morning. In summer, when watering in the morning, you can leave water in the trays. In autumn and winter, the water collected in the saucer after watering should be drained. Most succulent indoor plants (cacti, aloe, etc.) are watered daily in the summer, and in the fall and winter only when the earthen ball dries out, depending on the temperature and humidity of the room, two to three times a week; more often with central heating and less often with stove heating.

Watering plants during the transition from autumn to winter (September, October), during the end of plant growth and their transition to a dormant state, is very important. Excessive watering at this time often leads to plant death. From the beginning of October, and in some cases from the second half of September, watering should be sharply reduced. During this wettest time of the year (when the central heating is still on), water even less than in winter. With the beginning of the heating season (central heating), watering should be increased.

Under no circumstances should the earth clod be allowed to dry out. In overdried plants, the soil has difficulty accepting water. In such cases, the lump lags behind the walls of the dish; when watering, water runs down through the cracks and flows out through the drainage hole without wetting the lump. Therefore, overdried plants are immersed with dishes up to the root collar in water for one to two hours until the coma is completely saturated.

All tropical plants, as well as plants with delicate root systems (ferns, orchids, cacti), suffer greatly from watering with cold water, and often this causes their root system to rot.

The water for watering flowers is kept in the room for at least a day so that it warms up. You should not water flowers with cold tap water or boiled water.

It is recommended to water indoor plants with water at a temperature 2-3 degrees higher than the ambient temperature. Observations show that during periods of increased growth and abundant flowering, it is generally useful to water with water warmer than the surrounding air. It is harmful to water plants that are at rest, especially deciduous ones, with water warmer than the surrounding air.

Plants are watered from a bottle or in mugs. It is better to water sowings of small seeds and some plants, for example, cyclamen, gloxinia, from a saucer.

Spraying (spraying) plants is especially necessary in the spring and summer; In dry and warm rooms with central heating, it is useful to spray evergreen plants in winter.

LIGHT AND HEAT ADJUSTMENT

Not all plants can withstand direct sunlight in spring and summer. Some on them, such as many ferns, tropical shade plants with delicate leaves, get leaf burns and die.

Most succulent plants, primarily cacti (with the exception of the arthropod cactus), prefer to grow in full sunlight and can withstand significant heat.

All variegated plants are very demanding of light; when shaded, they lose the brightness of the leaf color.

Almost all tropical plants require diffused light during their growth period, which is why they have to be shaded from the direct rays of the sun. Young developing leaves in the spring are especially affected by direct sunlight. Shade the plants by lowering a loose curtain on the window. They need shading only in the daytime, from 10-11 a.m. to 4-5 p.m. In the autumn-winter period, although plants require less light, they lack it in indoor conditions, so you should not curtain the windows during this period.

Due to the one-sided lighting from the shackles, the plant has to be turned with different sides to the window, otherwise the most light-loving plants grow one-sided and crooked. Light-loving plants (geranium, aralia, hydrangea, aralia) are most drawn to light. Woody, shade-tolerant plants (palm trees, laurels) are less susceptible to this, but they should also be turned in different directions to the light from time to time.

Temperature fluctuations in rooms have a significant impact on the life of plants. The usual temperature of residential premises in winter is from 15-16 to 20-22 degrees. It should be borne in mind that the temperature is different in different parts of the room: higher near the heating source and lower near the window; in rooms with stove heating this difference reaches 5-6 degrees.

Plants should not be placed in close proximity to heating sources, but with water or steam heating there is no other choice, since usually the batteries are placed in wall niches or, even worse, suspended from flat walls under the windows. As a result of this, the clod of earth and the surrounding air quickly dry out, which leads to the drying out and death of roots and leaves.

To prevent the harmful effects of heated dry air, screens are placed along the path of its movement, reflecting heat and directing it to the side. On window sills, it is advisable to protect pots from warm air rising from radiators with glass, cardboard or plywood shields, and from solar overheating in the summer - with cardboard or plywood shields.

Sharp temperature fluctuations negatively affect plant growth, so they should be avoided in all cases (when heating, ventilation, moving plants). Only cacti and some other plants can withstand such temperature fluctuations.

The temperature in the room is controlled by heating and ventilation. Plants in spring and summer are protected from overheating by shading from the sun, spraying and increased watering, and in winter in rooms with central heating only by watering. The necessary air purity is maintained by ventilating the room. When ventilating, drafts should not be allowed: most indoor plants cannot withstand them. With the window open, the plant must be protected from cold air flow or moved to a protected place, especially on frosty days.

Plants most need fresh air during their growth period - spring and summer. Particles of dust and tobacco smoke from polluted air settle on the leaves of plants, as a result of which their vital functions deteriorate. Therefore, along with air clarification, the plant should be wiped from dust from time to time with flannel cloths, special ovens and brushes, or washed with water.

HOUSEPLANTS IN OPEN GROUND

It is useful to place indoor plants originating from subtropical and temperate countries, and some tropical ones (fan palms, low chamerops, southern coconut; agave; thuja and others) in open ground for the summer, which is only possible if there are garden plots, verandas, balconies and terraces Before moving them into open ground, indoor plants are gradually accustomed to the outside air, intensively ventilating the rooms and moving them closer to open windows.

In open ground, plants are placed under light shade, especially in the first two weeks. During the summer, they are systematically watered, sprayed, weeded and the soil in pots is loosened, the appearance of pests and diseases is monitored and fought against them, and the earthen coma is protected from drying out by the wind, especially for plants not dug into the ground on open balconies and verandas.

It is advisable to dig pots and tubs into open ground soil. For better drainage, holes are made under the pots and tubs and filled with broken bricks. To reduce the possibility of rotting, wooden tubs and boxes are isolated from the soil, covered on all sides with moss or wrapped with roofing felt. When installing plants without digging into the soil on balconies, terraces and other rooms, pots and tubs should be completely covered with moss, peat chips or sawdust, leaving only the soil on top uncovered for watering.

In open ground, plants are watered abundantly early in the morning or evening and sprayed twice a day, morning and afternoon, and transplanted and insufficiently rooted plants are sprayed every two vats. At this time, the plants are especially responsive to fertilization. In open ground, in addition to applying mineral fertilizers, it is advisable to feed the plant weekly with organic fertilizers - an infusion of cow manure or bird droppings, the rates and methods of application of which were discussed earlier.

At the end of summer, even before the matinees, the plants are moved indoors. As a result of summer exposure to the open air, plants become stronger and stronger.

Pruning and staking of plants.

The following goals are pursued by pruning: forming the crown of plants, enhancing flowering, rejuvenation and maintaining correspondence between the crown and root system when replanting plants.

In order to obtain a better crown, privet, cherry laurel and other plants are pruned annually, leaving 3-5 centimeters of last year's growth. The crown is trimmed with a knife or scissors.

To improve the penetration of air and light into the crown of the plant, from time to time, cutting out dry, dying, excess branches and leaves. Thicker shoots and branches are cut at, i.e., flush with the trunk or thicker branch.

Indoor plants are tied to stakes if they are bent or cannot stay upright. The branches of bushes are also tied up when they spread too widely ().

Pegs for garter are round, cleared of bark, and pointed at the bottom. For hydrangea, fuchsia and other short plants, pine pegs are usually used, from 25 to 75 centimeters long and as thick as a little finger.

Plants with boles are tied in a figure eight in two or three places with a soft sponge, neither tightly nor weakly; bushy - in one or two places, capturing all the main shoots.

FERTILIZING PLANTS

Normal development of the plant is maintained by changing the soil during transplantation and systematic feeding during the growth period with mineral or organic fertilizers in the form of fertilizing watering.

Of the mineral fertilizers used for fertilizing irrigation, mainly ammonium or potassium nitrate, potassium salt and superphosphate are used. These fertilizers are best given in a mixture. In the first stages of growth, more nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium and potassium nitrate) are applied. Before flowering and in the second half of the growth period, increase the proportion of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In its pure form, ammonium nitrate is used at the rate of one teaspoon (4-5 grams) per 3 liters (15 glasses) of water, potassium salt - one to one and a half teaspoons and superphosphate - two to three teaspoons per the same amount of water.

The mixture of mineral fertilizers during the growth period consists of two and a half teaspoons of ammonium nitrate, one spoon of superphosphate and half a spoon of potassium salt, which are dissolved in 10 liters of water; before flowering and during flowering - from one and a half teaspoons of ammonium nitrate, two and a half tablespoons of superphosphate and one spoon of potassium salt, which are dissolved in 10-12 liters of water.

Many experiments have proven that plants also need elements such as boron, manganese, and zinc. Without them in the soil, plants grow and develop poorly. For example, with a lack of boron, the upper growth points of plants die. Adding negligible amounts of these elements to the soil immediately improves the situation, which is why these fertilizers are called microfertilizers. Boron is added in the form of borax. The salts of these elements are taken on the tip of a penknife and dissolved in a bucket of water, which is used to water potted and tub plants, as with ordinary fertilizers.

Fertilizer watering is used after the plant has taken root and started to grow after planting or replanting; watering is repeated after one to two weeks, depending on the condition of the plant.

The amount of solution applied to one plant is determined by its condition, mainly the power of the root system. The initial growth phases require less fertilizer than later phases. You should not water newly transplanted, sick or dormant plants with fertilizers. A friendly family, tradescantia, indoor grapes and papyrus can be fed throughout the year.

For potted plants, the fertilizer watering should saturate the entire lump, but not drain onto the saucer. About two hours before fertilizing watering, plants with dried soil are watered with clean water.

When watering with a fertilizer solution, you need to ensure that it does not get on the leaves and other organs of the plant; If the solution gets in contact, the plant is sprayed with water.

Stores sell ready-made fertilizer mixtures indicating which group of plants they are intended for and in what quantities they should be applied.

Good results are obtained by fertilizing plants with organic fertilizers, but for sanitary and hygienic reasons, not all types of these fertilizers can be used in rooms. The only organic fertilizers that can be widely used are horn shavings or horn flour, from which an infusion is prepared, and water from washing fresh meat. This is a very good and strong fertilizer for all indoor plants, promoting excellent growth.

An infusion of fresh cow dung or bird droppings should be prepared outside the living area. For this purpose, a liter jar of manure or droppings is diluted with a bucket of water and mixed with a stick every day for one to two weeks. The fertilizer is considered ready when gas bubbles stop escaping from it. Before watering the plants, the infusion of bird droppings is diluted with double or triple the amount of water, but the infusion of manure is not diluted with water.

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Houseplants beautify your surroundings, purify the air in your home, and add a touch of nature to austere office spaces. Because plants grow and change, some people even consider them part of their social circle. They are quite easy to care for if you know a few tricks to keep them healthy.

Steps

Plants need a lot of light. This is almost the most important thing! Determine how much natural light the plant receives (and needs) and install a daylight fixture near the plant if possible. The ideal place for the plant is a window, and do not forget to place a saucer under the pot to collect water after watering or drops of condensation that often appear on the leaves at night.

Water them as needed. Plants need water, not too much and not too little. Water the plant until water begins to flow out of the pot. Never plant plants in a pot that does not have at least one drainage hole! Be realistic about the time you will be able to devote to your plants and plan accordingly. Large plants in large pots will need less frequent watering than plants in small pots that will dry out every couple of days. Cactus and succulents need much less water than thin-leaved or flowering plants (although when the cactus has a flower in bloom, it will need a little more water than usual). Go to a reputable greenhouse and learn about the different types of plants, how much light they need, how much space they need, what temperature they need to grow at, and choose a plant that you like and that suits your home and the time you can spend on it .

Beware of pests. Sometimes plants attract various pests - insects that eat the plant, causing it to lose energy. Some plants are less susceptible to insects than others. In thin-leaved plants you can often find spider mites and whiteflies, in others - scale insects. Learn to recognize this or that insect and know the methods of dealing with them (usually soil-drainage insecticides cope well with them, but not always, so it is very important to know what to do in each case). Plants can also be susceptible to mold and various viruses, although these are quite rare. There are many articles on the Internet that you can read and learn how to treat these diseases.

Use a good pot. A decorative pot or planter that matches your furniture can greatly enhance the appearance of your plant. The plant will do even better if the pot is placed in a saucer with about 1 cm of gravel. When watering a plant, water will fall into the saucer and evaporate near it, making the surrounding air a little more humid. This is especially useful in winter. Make sure that the water does not touch the bottom of the pot, because if the pot is in water, the roots of the plant will begin to rot and it will disappear. To prevent the saucer of the pot from touching a wooden or painted surface, place it on a stand. Moisture in the saucer will cause condensation underneath, which can damage the wood or painted surface. When you water the plant, wipe up any spills very quickly.

Water the plant when the pot becomes noticeably lighter than the last time you watered. Again, each plant needs a different amount of water. Some plants can go without water for several days, while others, especially flowering plants, need shorter intervals between watering. Very few plants, with the exception of aquarium plants and papyrus, like to stay in water for more than one day! Your job is to find the perfect combination of moisture and dryness to keep your plants in good health.

1. Find out what suits you best. Some examples of good indoor plants: Floor plants: Dracaena fringe (dragon tree), ficus (both the wide and small leaf variety), sansevieria (mother-in-law's tongue), spathiphyllum (peace lily), plants of the umbrella family. Avoid plant species such as birds of paradise, bamboo, palm tree and ferns unless you can provide them with very good light and high humidity throughout the year. Different plants do well in different climates. Do your research and don't always trust florists who are more interested in selling you a plant rather than making sure it finds a suitable home.

   • Window and table plants: Kalanchoe, reed begonia, Saintpaulia, orchid (most orchids are fairly easy to care for, but they only bloom once or twice a year, place nice foliage plants near them). Philodendron (lover tree), arrowroot (prayer tree), syngonium (pointed tree), Crassula (jade tree), Zamioculcas and bocarnea reflexum (nolina). Don't be tempted by the thought of bringing a plant into your home that usually grows outside all year, like fuchsia, begonia, or even coleus. After being outside all summer, they won't do very well inside the house. They can also harbor insects that can infest other houseplants. There are many different types of plants, and some people become avid collectors. If you want to play it safe, don't buy wild or endangered plants, only those that have been grown in a greenhouse.
   • Rotate the plant from time to time to ensure all parts receive enough light. If there is very hot light coming from the window (put your hand on the window in the summer, if your hand gets hot very quickly, the plant will probably have a hard time too, the same goes for the cold in winter), place the plant about 20 cm from the window. You can close your windows with curtains at night to keep the room warm, but don't forget to open them in the morning to give your plants their daily dose of sunlight!
   • Once you have success with a couple of easy plants, move on to harder plants, such as Saintpaulia or orchids. They are worth growing. There are also many special interest groups, in your city or on the Internet, that can help with tips on how to grow them.
   • Buy only healthy-looking plants! If the plant looks sick, it probably can't be saved, unless you have a lot of experience in this matter, or unless it is a very rare and valuable plant and you know someone who knows a lot about them and can help you tips on how to get it out.
   • Wash the leaves of large plants once or twice a year to keep them looking their best. Never use plant spray on the top leaves. This way you close the pores and prevent him from breathing freely. NEVER apply plant spray to the bottom of the leaves, this is where the plant breathes the most, you can kill it if you close these breathing pores. If you want to give the leaves a little shine, a little 2% milk and a soft cloth will give the leaves a little shine without clogging the pores. It's also much cheaper than a bottle of leaf gloss.

   Warnings

   • The leaves of some plants, such as Dieffenbachia or Euphorbia, contain toxins that can harm pets or children if they eat them. Be sure to learn as much as you can about a particular plant if it causes you concern for your pet or child.

Recommendations for caring for indoor plants can differ radically from each other, since currently there is a large selection of different flowers that require an individual approach. And favorable conditions for one plant will become disastrous for another. But there are still a few general rules that will make it easier for a novice gardener to properly maintain indoor plants.

First you need to choose a plant. Indeed, in addition to the most common violets and geraniums, there are many exclusive and rare species. Therefore, first of all, you need to decide on the following questions:

• where it is planned to be placed (on the window, floor, table, in the greenhouse);
• how often it will bloom (once or with any frequency);
• traditional or exotic.

After the choice is made, you should evaluate the room conditions that are necessary for the normal existence of the indoor plant. This applies to lighting, room area, temperature and humidity.

Indoor lighting

One of the main conditions for proper plant growth is good lighting. Without it, even a shade-loving flower can quickly die. The intensity of sunlight depends on the type of flower:

• Heliophytes (cacti, geranium, flowering begonia, lily, tropical) - preferably placed on windows, balconies, where there is a lot of light. They can be shaded only during the hottest hours.
• Sciophytes (calathea, fern, anthurium, azalea, saintpaulia) grow better in low light, so they can be safely placed on a table or shelf.
• Facultative heliophytes (Dieffenbachia, Aralia, Ficus, Pothos) - prefer normal lighting, they will feel good closer to the window.

Proper watering

Any plant requires proper watering. Flowers should be watered with rain and melt water. If this is not available, then you can use tap water, just let it sit before watering or spraying.

It must be remembered that the degree of watering of flowers depends on the time of year:

1. 1. In spring, when the shoots begin to grow more intensively, the flower needs to be watered more abundantly.
2. 2. In summer, watering should be done moderately, with the exception of very hot days (here watering needs to be increased).
3. 3. Starting in autumn, you should water the plants less often, gradually preparing them for winter.
4. 4. In winter, many plants experience a dormant stage. Depending on the type of flower, watering should be minimal or completely absent.

Air humidity

Plants at home should be kept as close as possible to natural habitat conditions. One of the factors in creating the necessary microclimate is humidity. In many apartments in winter, heating causes the air to become dry. For cacti this will be the best option, but for a tropical flower such a climate will lead to its death. Therefore, plants that prefer moisture should be regularly wiped with a damp cloth and sprayed.

At night, the leaves of the plant should never be wet to avoid the development of fungal diseases.

It is important to know that there are types of plants that absolutely cannot be sprayed.

Temperature conditions and fertilizing

Almost all plants do not like drafts and sudden temperature changes. In summer, the optimal temperature is at least 18 degrees, and in winter – from 10 and above. There are also fastidious specimens, for example, azaleas and cyclamens love constant coolness and form a beautiful bouquet during flowering. Pelargonium easily tolerates short-term low temperatures (3–5 degrees), and some flowers cannot withstand even the slightest temperature difference.

Many people wonder: how to decorate the interior design of their home and make it especially stylish, elegant and attractive. Following the fashion trends of our time, which are constantly changing and cease to be relevant, we often miss one universal solution - growing indoor plants for decorative purposes.

In fact, such green spaces can transform a dull, unattractive and old interior beyond recognition, making it truly presentable. Flower growers' favorites create a green oasis in the house, allowing all guests and owners to find themselves in a place of heavenly beauty and comfort at any moment.

Caring for flowers at home

But floriculture is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. It is enough to carefully study the basic rules of care, assess your financial capabilities and make sure that you are ready to allocate a certain amount of time for certain activities.

You should also consult with experienced gardeners and adopt the basics of caring for green spaces for an indoor greenhouse. In an era where everything is controlled by high-tech tools, finding any information is very easy. The main thing is desire, and a beautiful flower can please you in a short period of time.

In addition to their decorative purpose, green friends play an important role in enriching the apartment air with valuable oxygen. They also serve as an effective filter that can cleanse the air of harmful impurities. But in order for growing indoor plants to be successful, and for the different stages of their growth and development not to cause you a lot of problems and troubles, it is important to deal with all of them in advance features of the content. Today we will talk about caring for indoor plants and look at the basic subtleties of such an activity.

Caring for indoor flowers

Caring for indoor plants at home can depend on many factors, because there are varieties that take root well in a new environment, remaining unpretentious, while others require complex handling. Some specimens are able to survive without water for a whole year, however, in most cases this is a rare exception to the rule. All other plants need proper care.

A novice gardener should know that maintaining beautiful exotic greenery is a demanding and difficult task. To grow truly elegant vegetation you have to sacrifice your own strength and time. However, after the first flowers appear in your house and you begin to care for them, in the future everything will be much simpler and will go like clockwork.

More experienced owners of “green friends” claim that remembering the basic features of caring for your favorite plants is not as difficult as it might initially seem. Most varieties are able to notify the owner of the need for replanting, fertilizing, pruning or additional watering by their appearance, so care is greatly simplified. Even today, a novice gardener can find a lot of schedules and schemes for caring for a plant.

How to care for indoor flowers. Optimal lighting

An important condition for proper care of plants at home is providing comfortable lighting. It is important to understand that a lack of light, as well as its excess, have different effects on individual types of green spaces. Choosing the placement of flowers in the room the following principles must be followed:

How to care for indoor plants. Watering

Almost all types of indoor plants require regular watering. And while some need daily contact with water, others can easily survive with watering once a month. Despite this, flower growers identify a number of basic recommendations and rules that should be followed when caring for plants at home. These tips will be relevant for different varieties and varieties:

Representatives of tropical plants or those with particularly lush and succulent foliage need high humidity. In turn, more patient species live well in rooms with dry air. In any case, you cannot do without regular spraying and wiping with a damp cloth.

It is also worth highlighting a number of plants that can fully grow only in trays with wet pebbles that do not touch the ground in the pot. If the variety has pubescent leaves, the spraying procedure is strictly prohibited. Considering these recommendations, you can avoid many problems with growing beautiful greens at home.

Temperature conditions, replanting and pruning

Most known indoor plants live and develop freely at temperatures from 18 degrees Celsius in summer, and from 10 degrees in winter. For example, plants such as ivy are not at all afraid of drafts or sudden changes in temperature, while all others can die if the air temperature in the room drops rapidly.

Replace old soil with new one and increase the size of the pot necessary in cases where the flower is growing rapidly and does not fit in the previous container. It is also better to replant when active growth resumes, but there are no formed roots. Some species need to be replanted every 2-3 years. Experts advise not to touch old plants that have managed to grow to impressive sizes. In this case, it is enough to replace the top layer of soil with new, fresh soil. Replanting such old flowers may be their last.

Some indoor plants need regular pruning of elongated shoots.. In addition, pruning activities will be an indispensable solution if you want to give a flower a decorative shape.

What pests and dangers threaten indoor plants?

Caring for indoor plants at home cannot be complete without providing reliable protection from diseases and pests. Particular intensity of infection is observed in the summer. when plants are exposed to various indoor pests. Nevertheless, regular inspection of your home greenhouse will not be superfluous at any other time of the year.

If you notice that the external condition of the “green friends” has deteriorated greatly, some strange objects have appeared on the leaves, flowering shoots or stems, it is necessary to quickly isolate the flower from others and carry out a series of procedures to remove dangerous pests.

The flower is treated until the problem is completely eliminated. If prompt and radical measures are not taken, the plant may simply die.

Noticing a sharp decrease in growth activity and intensive leaf fall, you should evaluate the condition of the plant and determine the cause of such troubles. Today we can identify many specific diseases and problems that are characteristic of specific varieties and species. To maintain flowers in good condition, it is important to regularly take certain measures and monitor the health of your home greenhouse.

Please remember that some plants may contain poisonous sap., while others are completely harmless. In any case, caring for such plantings at home should be carried out taking into account certain safety rules. The main thing is to carefully study the plant you like, read the tips and properly care for it.

In most cases, poisonous sap does not cause any difficulties for the grower. It is enough to carry out all care activities with gloves and prevent the flower from coming into contact with children or pets. However, some species are particularly dangerous for people with sensitive skin and allergies. When choosing such a variety, you need to carefully think about whether it makes sense to have a dangerous plant at home.

Some recommendations for caring for indoor plants at home

The main feature of successfully growing indoor plants is regular care with love and attention.

Do not forget that any information of interest can be found freely available on various floriculture resources and portals for florists. The Internet is a colossal database of a wide variety of content, and tips on caring for indoor plants are no exception. Try to research your favorite topic as much as possible. Chat with friends who have a lot of tropical flowers growing in their apartment. Try asking questions on online forums. The main thing is never despair.

The effort, time, and sometimes financial savings you put into it will definitely give you a pleasant result in the form of a brightly flowering plant with unique inflorescences, a rare shape, and other features. In fact, caring for indoor plants is a productive activity and you will never regret that you decided to do such a thing. Beautiful flowers can transform the dull interior of your room beyond recognition, making it truly elegant, creative and presentable. Good luck in caring for your indoor plants yourself.