Building 16, p.5.

House Khitrovo(the main house of N. S. Shcherbatova’s estate is the Oryol hospital (almshouse, hospital) XVIII - XIX centuries). Valuable cultural heritage site of federal significance.

The main house of the city estate is located on the historical territory of the White City tract Kulishki. It is part of the five blocks of the Khitrovka landmark.

The house acquired its current appearance in 1823 under Major General N.Z. Khitrovo. The family coat of arms of Khitrovo is preserved on the pediment.

Story

The estate was inherited by his son, F.A. Golovin. Golovin built new wooden mansions and a brick church next to them, consecrated in the name of the Kazan Icon in -1698.

From Admiral Golovin the estate passed to his widow, and then to his nephew, Lieutenant Pyotr Ivanovich Golovin of the Preobrazhensky Regiment. In 1748, the estate burned down.

In 1750, the property was purchased by Prince Semyon Ivanovich Shcherbatov (?-), who returned from Pustoozersk exile (in the so-called “Suzdal case” of 1718), and in 1757 it passed to his widow, Natalya Stepanovna Shcherbatova (nee Bestuzheva). She built a new stone house with an outbuilding to replace the burnt wooden mansion, connecting the house with the church with a passage. On the rear façade, restorers restored the architectural decoration of Shcherbatova’s house.

The new owner completely rebuilt the old Shcherbatov house in the Empire style. The facade from Yauzsky Boulevard was decorated with a six-column portico, and the family coat of arms was placed on the pediment. The church also received new decor and was re-consecrated in honor of the Tikhvin Icon.

After Khitrovo’s death, the house passes to the merchant’s wife A.N. Nemchinova, and the church closes again.

In the house of the Oryol hospital, Clara Zetkin organized a paramedic school. Now the house houses the Medical School named after. Clara Zetkin.

Gallery

see also

• Church of the Smolensk Mother of God at the Oryol hospital on Khitrovka

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Notes

Literature

• Church archeology of Moscow: Temples and parishes of Ivanovskaya Gorka and Kulishki / Under the general direction. ed. Doctor of Art History A.L. Batalov. - M., 2006. - P. 136-154. - ISBN 5-91150-014-0.(in translation)

An excerpt characterizing the Khitrovo House

“I came to see you,” Rostov said, blushing.
Dolokhov did not answer him. “You can bet,” he said.
Rostov remembered at that moment a strange conversation he once had with Dolokhov. “Only fools can play for luck,” Dolokhov said then.
– Or are you afraid to play with me? - Dolokhov said now, as if he had guessed Rostov’s thought, and smiled. Because of his smile, Rostov saw in him the mood of spirit that he had during dinner at the club and in general at those times when, as if bored with daily life, Dolokhov felt the need to get out of it in some strange, mostly cruel, act .
Rostov felt awkward; he searched and did not find a joke in his mind that would respond to Dolokhov’s words. But before he could do this, Dolokhov, looking straight into Rostov’s face, slowly and deliberately, so that everyone could hear, said to him:
– Do you remember we talked about the game... a fool who wants to play for luck; I probably should play, but I want to try.
“Try for luck, or perhaps?” thought Rostov.
“And it’s better not to play,” he added, and cracking the torn deck, he added: “Bank, gentlemen!”
Moving the money forward, Dolokhov prepared to throw. Rostov sat down next to him and did not play at first. Dolokhov glanced at him.
- Why don’t you play? - said Dolokhov. And strangely, Nikolai felt the need to take a card, put a small jackpot on it and start the game.
“I have no money with me,” said Rostov.
– I’ll believe it!
Rostov bet 5 rubles on the card and lost, bet again and lost again. Dolokhov killed, that is, he won ten cards in a row from Rostov.
“Gentlemen,” he said, after spending some time, “please put money on the cards, otherwise I might get confused in the accounts.”
One player said he hoped he could be trusted.
– I can believe it, but I’m afraid of getting confused; “Please put money on the cards,” Dolokhov answered. “Don’t be shy, we’ll get even with you,” he added to Rostov.
The game continued: the footman, without ceasing, served champagne.
All Rostov's cards were broken, and up to 800 tons of rubles were written on him. He was about to write 800 thousand rubles on one card, but while he was being served champagne, he changed his mind and wrote the usual jackpot again, twenty rubles.
“Leave it,” said Dolokhov, although he did not seem to look at Rostov, “you’ll get even sooner.” I give to others, but I beat you. Or are you afraid of me? - he repeated.
Rostov obeyed, left the written 800 and placed the seven of hearts with a torn off corner, which he picked up from the ground. He remembered her well afterwards. He placed the seven of hearts, writing 800 above it with a broken piece of chalk, in round, straight numbers; drank the served glass of warmed champagne, smiled at Dolokhov’s words, and with bated breath, waiting for the seven, began to look at Dolokhov’s hands holding the deck. Winning or losing this seven of hearts meant a lot for Rostov. On Sunday last week, Count Ilya Andreich gave his son 2,000 rubles, and he, who never liked to talk about financial difficulties, told him that this money was the last one until May, and that is why he asked his son to be more economical this time. Nikolai said that this was too much for him, and that he gave his word of honor not to take any more money until spring. Now 1,200 rubles of this money remained. Therefore, the seven of hearts meant not only a loss of 1,600 rubles, but also the need to change this word. With a sinking heart, he looked at Dolokhov’s hands and thought: “Well, quickly, give me this card, and I’ll take my cap, go home to dinner with Denisov, Natasha and Sonya, and I’ll certainly never have a card in my hands.” At that moment, his home life, jokes with Petya, conversations with Sonya, duets with Natasha, a picket with his father, and even a calm bed in the Cook's house, presented themselves to him with such strength, clarity and charm, as if all this were long past, lost and priceless happiness. He could not allow that a stupid accident, forcing the seven to lie first on the right than on the left, could deprive him of all this newly understood, newly illuminated happiness and plunge him into the abyss of an as yet unexperienced and uncertain misfortune. This could not be, but he still waited with bated breath for the movement of Dolokhov’s hands. These broad-boned, reddish hands with hair visible from under the shirt, put down a deck of cards, and took hold of the glass and pipe being served.
- So you're not afraid to play with me? - Dolokhov repeated, and, as if in order to tell a funny story, he put down the cards, leaned back in his chair and slowly began to tell with a smile:
“Yes, gentlemen, I was told that there is a rumor spread in Moscow that I am a cheater, so I advise you to be careful with me.”
- Well, swords! - said Rostov.
- Oh, Moscow aunties! - said Dolokhov and took up the cards with a smile.
- Aaah! – Rostov almost shouted, raising both hands to his hair. The seven he needed was already at the top, the first card in the deck. He lost more than he could pay.
“However, don’t get too carried away,” said Dolokhov, glancing briefly at Rostov and continuing to throw.

After an hour and a half, most of the players were already jokingly looking at their own game.
The whole game focused on Rostov alone. Instead of one thousand six hundred rubles, a long column of numbers was written down behind him, which he had counted up to the tenth thousand, but which now, as he vaguely assumed, had already risen to fifteen thousand. In fact, the entry already exceeded twenty thousand rubles. Dolokhov no longer listened or told stories; he followed every movement of Rostov’s hands and occasionally glanced briefly at his note behind him. He decided to continue the game until this entry increased to forty-three thousand. He chose this number because forty-three was the sum of his years added up with Sonya's years. Rostov, leaning his head on both hands, sat in front of a table covered with writings, covered in wine, and littered with cards. One painful impression did not leave him: these broad-boned, reddish hands with hair visible from under his shirt, these hands that he loved and hated, held him in their power.

Soon this plot was bought by Prince S.I. Shcherbatov. And in the late 1750s, his widow built new stone two-story chambers. This was not the last change to the house. So, after the demolition of the walls of the White City, the estate, oriented with its main facade to the west, turned in the opposite direction - facing the boulevards. And at the end of the 18th century the house was rebuilt again.

The fire of 1812 did not touch the mansion, although everything around it burned to the ground. In 1822, the estate was bought by General Nikolai Khitrovo - the same one thanks to whom Khitrovka appeared in Moscow. He rebuilt the house again, decorating it with his family coat of arms.

After the death of General Khitrovo in 1826, his heirs sold the estate. In 1843 it passed to Colonel Vladimir Orlov.

Guide to Architectural Styles

Since he had no children, in 1889 the house came into the possession of the Moscow Trustee Committee for the Poor. So, in the old estate, the “Oryol Hospital of the Moscow Committee for the Care of the Poor, for visiting poor patients” was opened. It was intended mainly for the inhabitants. Here they were treated, had simple operations and were fed in the canteen.

After the revolution, the hospital was closed, and in the 1930s the hospital church was demolished. Now the estate is located in the courtyard of a Stalinist house. The Khitrovo coat of arms has been preserved on the building, but it is occupied by the Moscow Medical School No. 2 named after Clara Zetkin.

In the courtyard of a Stalin-era residential building, on the corner of Yauzsky Boulevard and Podkolokolny Lane, an old manor house has been preserved, to which a small house church, built in the 17th century, was once adjacent. The house and the temple formed the central part of a vast estate, the largest in Kulishki, which in the 17th century belonged to the Golovin boyars.

(c) saitafern

The courtyard of steward Alexei Petrovich Golovin is mentioned for the first time in the inventory of courtyards
and owners from the Pokrovsky to Yauzsky gates in I682. A serving nobleman from an old family, A.P. Golovin advanced during the reign of Feodor Alekseevich. In 1682 he received the rank of steward, and in 1685 he became a boyar. He served in the Order of Monetary Collection, helping his son organize an embassy to China. His son, the famous admiral general, closest associate of Peter I, Fyodor Alekseevich Golovin, was one of the most outstanding statesmen of the Peter I era.

Fedor Alekseevich Golovin.

Having begun his service as ambassador to China, he subsequently took part in the Great Embassy of Peter I to Europe. He recruited foreigners for the Russian service and headed the Ambassadorial Prikaz, the Navigation School, the Armory, the Gold and Silver Chambers, and the Mint. Having headed the domestic shipbuilding industry, Golovin became one of the founders of the Russian fleet. He was one of the first in Russia to be elevated to the rank of count and the first to receive the Order of Alexander Nevsky. Tsar Peter trusted Golovin unlimitedly and called him his friend. Having learned about Golovin’s death, the sovereign signed his condolences to the bereaved family: “Peter, filled with sadness.”

Fedor Alekseevich Golovin.

In the Moscow estate on Kulishki, which passed to him from his father, F.A. Golovin built wooden mansions, and near them in 1695-1698 he erected a small brick house church, consecrated in the name of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God (large nobles, especially those burdened with age and illness, had to obtain permission to build a house church at the end of the 17th - beginning of the 18th century not difficult).
The Golovin Church belonged to the circle of monuments of the Naryshkin Baroque. In the splendor of the facade decoration, it was inferior to other famous house churches of its time - such as the Signs of the Mother of God in the Sheremetev yard, the Assumption in the Saltykov estate in the Chizhevsky courtyard or the Martyr Irene in the possession of the Naryshkins, but it was quite representative and expressive. Its main volume with a rounded eastern wall, surrounded by a walkway, stood on a high basement, surrounded by an arcade gallery. The octagon may have ended with a tier of bells, since there is mention of a belfry in the documents.
Golovin's property was part of the parish of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, which is at the Yauz Gate, and the house church was assigned to it. In 1702, following Golovin’s petition, a young priest from Kostroma, Joseph Ivanov, was assigned here, who was ordained by Patriarch Adrian in 1696 and appointed to take the place of his deceased father in the Kostroma Church of the Prophet Elijah. Father Joseph served in the Golovino church for more than fifty years.
From Admiral Golovin, the estate along with the temple passed to his widow, and then to his nephew, Lieutenant Pyotr Ivanovich Golovin, Life Guards of the Preobrazhensky Regiment.

Coat of arms of the Golovin family.

During the Moscow fire of 1748, the old Golovin chambers burned down, and with them the letters of Father Joseph that had been placed and the passage perished. Two years later, P. I. Golovin turns to the clergy with a petition in which he sets out the biography of the priest, gives him the best description and asks to restore these documents, since without them the priest “does not dare to correct God’s service, and he to me, named, with the shown he should be fit for the church, since he is a kind person and not a drunkard, and he always corrects the service without laziness,”
In 1750, the estate was purchased by Prince S.I. Shcherbatov, and in I757 it passed to his widow Natalya Stepanovna, who built a new stone house with an outbuilding on the site of the burnt mansion, connecting the building with the church with a passage. The result was a symmetrical architectural ensemble in the Baroque style, in which the temple played the role of a high-rise dominant.

Coat of arms of the Shcherbatov family.

Since 1757, Priest Alexy Ivanov served in the Kazan house church. After his death, Princess Shcherbatova submitted a petition for the appointment of a new priest, but she was refused registration of the house church, since she was still young and healthy. In 1759, the antimension from the church was “taken by His Eminence Metropolitan Timothy with the animals (symbols of the 4 evangelists - M.K). Only 20 years later, having already grown old, the princess received permission to hold services in the house church, and in 1780 priest Ksenophon Fedorov was appointed there. From the childless Shcherbatova, the estate was inherited by her niece N.N. Nashchokina, who also received permission “due to her middle age and poor health to maintain this holy church.” The priest was provided with “a special house of priests from the owner, in it there are two upper rooms, with partitions in them. Canopies, and in them there is peace in which to cook food< ... >a garden with fruitful trees, money 60 rubles (per year - M.K), six quarters of arzhan flour, one and a half quarters of cereal, two fathoms of firewood< ... >And besides, the parish priest every year, in addition to his coming with a cross on well-known temple holidays, I also have to give 20 rubles for correction.”
In 1785, the estate was sold to Privy Councilor Andrei Dmitrievich Karpov and his wife Natalya Alekseevna, who also had the right to maintain the house church, in which Father Xenophon continued to serve.
After the demolition of the White City wall and the construction of Yauzsky Boulevard at the end of the 18th century, the main façade of the house became the eastern one, and the house church facing the boulevard acquired the significance of one of the high-rise accents in the panorama of the boulevard. During the fire of 1812, the manor buildings were almost not damaged, and the following year services in the house church were resumed.

Oryol hospital (former home of Major General N.Z. Khitrovo) with the house church of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God. On the right is the Teleshovs' house. View from the window of the Practical Academy.
Ph. N.M. Shchapova. Beginning 20th century.

In 1821, after the death of N.A. Karpova, the Kazan house church was abolished, and all its property and iconostasis, according to the will of the owner of the estate, went to the New Jerusalem Monastery. There was a family crypt of the Obolensky princes, from whose family Natalya Alekseevna came, who proposed to build a Kazan chapel in the monastery cathedral “to commemorate the relatives who are buried there.”
From the inventory of the property of the closed church it is known that its three-tiered iconostasis was painted and gilded in places. In its place in the row, to the right of the Royal Doors, was the image of the Savior Pantocrator in a silver frame, and to the left was the Kazan Icon “with various feasts of the Lord and the Mother of God in stamps.” The second tier contained five icons, and the third - three large and two small images. The inventory also mentions a gilded copper chandelier with crystal pendants.
In 1822, the estate was bought by Major General Nikolai Zakharovich Khitrovo, who wished to reopen the closed church and consecrate it in the name of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God, since the Khitrovo family, which already had a Tikhvin church on their Kaluga estate, especially revered this icon. In his petition to the Moscow Spiritual Consistory, the new owner of the estate wrote: “Due to my jealousy for the splendor of the temple of God, and especially for the longevity of its existence, not wanting to abolish it and convert it for any home use, I most humbly ask Your Eminence to allow me to arrange a there as before, the iconostasis in the name of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God and supply all the required decent utensils.” The request was granted, and in 1823 the house church in the Khitrovo city estate was re-consecrated.

Church of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God. Project for the reconstruction of the transition from the manor house to the temple. 1844. TSANTDM.

Nikolai Zakharovich belonged to the ancient noble family of Khitrovo, which traced its origins back to Edu-Khan, nicknamed Silno-Khitr, who left the Golden Horde in the second half of the 14th century to join the Grand Duke of Ryazan Oleg Ioannovich, nicknamed Silno-Khitr, who was named Andrei at baptism.

Coat of arms of the Khitrovo family. Coat of arms of the Gagarin family.

UPD: The Gagarins' coat of arms is erroneously shown above. Here is the coat of arms of Khitrovo with a description:

Coat of arms of Khitrovo.
“In the middle of the shield, which has a red field, there is depicted a noble golden Crown, through which emerge two cross-shaped swords, with their points facing the upper corners, and between them in the lower part of the shield there is an octagonal silver star. The shield is crowned with an ordinary noble helmet with a noble crown on it I whine because of in which three ostrich feathers are visible. Mark it on the shield in red, lined with silver."

N.Z. Khitrovo was an aide-de-camp (an officer in the emperor’s retinue) to Paul I and Alexander I, and participated in the wars of 1805-11. against France and Turkey, took part in the siege of Brailov and retired after being wounded. This was the end of his military career. Just before the war of 1812, he was accused in the case of M.M. Speransky and exiled first to Vyatka, and then to his estate near Tarusa. After Napoleon was expelled from Russia, Nikolai Zakharovich, thanks to Field Marshal M.I. Kutuzov-Smolensky (Khitrovo was married to the field marshal’s second daughter, Anna), was forgiven and left for Moscow. During his stay in Vyatka, he kept a “journal”, an excerpt from which, concerning the history of this city and some of its attractions, was published in the “Works and Notes” of the Moscow Society of History and Russian Antiquities (Part III, Book 1). He was a zealous corresponding member of the Bible Society. He published two brochures: “The Przemysl Lyutik Monastery” and “Instructions on what days to read the Holy Gospel.” He was elected an honorary member of Moscow University in 1825-1826.
N.3. Khitrovo completely rebuilt the old Shcherbatov house in the Empire style, decorating the elegant façade with a white stone portico. The church also received a new look: the baroque decor was cut down, a new chapter was placed above the octagonal dome, and the walls were decorated with stucco wreaths and garlands characteristic of the Empire style. The archives of the Moscow City Government preserved a drawing of the main facade of the house and the temple, which, however, was not executed entirely accurately.
Finally, in 1823, N.Z. Khitrovo bought two burned-out courtyards of Kalustova and Bazhukina, located next to his estate, which were never able to renew them after the fire of 1812. The new owner demolished the ruins, cleared the land and offered the Moscow mayor V.D. Golitsyn to organize a meat and vegetable market here - instead of trading at the Varvarsky Gate, which had a bad reputation.
Khitrovo donated 1,000 rubles for the improvement of the shopping area. The City Duma accepted this proposal. The square was paved and lined with trees, lanterns were installed and a large metal canopy was made, and Khitrovo built a stone building with warehouses on it. Everything was ready for the opening of the market. But in 1826, Nikolai Zakharovich died, and his heirs abandoned their father’s idea, sold the estate and left these places.
The market never really opened, and only in winter seasonal meat fairs were held on Khitrovskaya Square. The free space was soon filled with craftsmen who gathered here in artels waiting for employers, which could last several days, weeks, or even months. Neighboring homeowners built lodging houses, cheap taverns and taverns for them. Ancient aristocratic estates were rebuilt and turned into lodging houses. So, in the middle of quiet, cozy Kulishki, the famous Khitrovka gradually formed. The taverns and taverns on the Khitrov market were named in accordance with the tastes of its inhabitants - "Katorga", "Peresylny", "Siberia", etc. Four homeowners: Rumyantsev, Kulakov, Yaroshenko and Kiryakov (and after him Bunin) - set up a lodging house here fishing on a grand scale. Khitrovka became a terrible sore of Moscow already in the 1860s, and at the beginning of the twentieth century it was already a kind of state with its own government and its own laws. It was impossible to eliminate it, but to force the owners of the shelters to strictly comply with the sanitary standards of the authorities they could.
The merchant A.N. Nemchinova, who bought the Khitrovo estate, rented it out (since 1829 to the Society for the Encouragement of Diligence), and the house church was once again closed.

Plan of the city estate of Colonel V.I. Orlov. 1843. TSANTDM.

In 1843, the estate passed to the guard Colonel Vladimir Ivanovich Orlov, and in 1851 - to his widow Ekaterina Dmitrievna.

Estate of V.I. Orlov. Main house. Eastern façade. 1844. TSANTDM.

The property retained a large ancient garden, but was gradually built up with small buildings. According to the will of V.I. Orlov, after the death of his wife, the estate, for lack of heirs, was to pass to the Moscow Trustee Committee for the Poor of the Imperial Humane Society. E.D. Orlova lived for a long time and only in 1889 the estate on Yauzsky Boulevard came into the possession of this oldest charitable institution in Russia. A hospital for the poor was set up here, which was called Orlovskaya. "The Oryol hospital in Podkolokolny lane. The Moscow Committee for the Care of the Poor, for indigent patients who come, is under the patronage of Prince Alexander Petrovich of Oldenburg. Open daily from 10 to 2 hours. At the hospital there is a special department with 5 beds for surgical patients and a pharmacy with free dispensing of medicines "(All Moscow: Address book for 1908. Dept. 1. P. 497.)
The abandoned house church was opened for the third time in 1892 and consecrated in honor of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God; a canteen for the poor was set up in the basement under the church.

Church of the Smolensk Mother of God at Orlova’s house on Khitrovskaya Square. Photo from the late 19th century. (Scherer, Nabholz and K).

The charitable institution in the former Orlov estate was intended mainly for the inhabitants of Khitrovka. Here they were treated, had simple operations and were fed in the canteen.
Judging by the fact that, as a rule, experienced priests were appointed as rectors of the house church on the Khitrov market, the Moscow authorities attached great importance to this church. Here, beggars, tramps, criminals, people of the “bottom” who were so masterfully depicted by Gilyarovsky and Gorky received spiritual nourishment. Since the opening of the Smolensk Church, Archpriest Vasily Tsvetkov served here. In 1909, he retired, but continued to live at the church, and Archpriest Vasily Olkhovsky was appointed the new rector. The clergy register for 1912 also mentions the second priest of the Smolensk Church - Viktor Korennov. In 1904, deacon Vladimir Rozanov appeared in the church. The position of headman was performed by the merchant Alexander Selevanovsky.
In 1919, the Smolensk Church, like most house churches, was closed, and in September 1922, paramedic courses moved to the house of the Oryol hospital, reorganized in 1923 into a three-year paramedic school named after Gubotdel Vsemedicsantruda. In 1928, the school was transformed into the Clara Zetkin Medical Polytechnic (since 1954 - Moscow Medical School No. 2 named after Clara Zetkin).
Around 1932, the Smolensk Church was demolished.

The place where until 1932 there was a temple of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God. View from the southeast (reference - edge of the hospital building). Photo from 1979.

The demolition of the church was accelerated due to the construction of a multi-storey residential building in this area
designed by architect I.A. Golosov.

They were going to demolish the entire estate, but the administration of the Medical School. Clara Zetkin defended her buildings, and at the turn of the 20th-21st centuries they were restored.

How Moscow streets were named

It was named after General N.Z. Khitrovo, son-in-law of Field Marshal Kutuzov. The general owned a house in the area and planned to build a large market nearby for trading greens and meat. The Khitrovo mansion has been preserved and stands on the corner of Yauzsky Boulevard and Podkolokolny Lane in the courtyard of a Stalinist house.

There were two estates on the site of the Khitrovsky market, but they burned down in 1812. For a long time, no one undertook the restoration of these mansions, and their owners were unable to pay taxes. And in 1824, General Khitrovo bought these properties and built a square, and then donated it to the city.

In 1827, Khitrovo died, and the shopping arcades changed owners. The square began to gradually transform: if previously there were front gardens on three undeveloped sides, now there are shopping arcades. On holidays and Sundays, trade extended to the square itself, where portable trays were installed.

In the 1860s, a shed was built on Khitrovskaya Square, where the Moscow Labor Exchange was located. Workers, freed peasants and even unemployed intellectuals flocked here in search of work. Basically, servants and seasonal workers were hired at the Khitrovskaya Exchange. Stock traders became “easy prey” for pickpockets. Not everyone was able to find a job, and many settled in the vicinity of Khitrovka, earning a living as a beggar.

Gradually, inexpensive taverns and taverns were opened around Khitrovskaya Square, charitable organizations fed the poor for free, and the surrounding houses turned into flophouses and apartment buildings with cheap apartments.

Khitrovka was a gloomy sight in the last century. There was no lighting in the maze of corridors and passages, on the crooked, dilapidated staircases leading to the dorms on all floors. He will find his way, but there is no need for someone else to come here! And indeed, no government dared to delve into these dark abysses... The two- and three-story houses around the square are all full of such shelters, in which up to ten thousand people slept and huddled. These houses brought huge profits to homeowners. Each rooming house paid a nickel per night, and the “rooms” cost two kopecks. Under the lower bunks, raised an arshin from the floor, there were lairs for two; they were separated by a hanging mat. The space an arshin in height and one and a half arshin in width between two mattings is the “number” where people spent the night without any bedding except their own rags.

By the end of the 19th century, Khitrovka turned into one of the most disadvantaged areas of Moscow. The flophouses overlooked Khitrovskaya Square - Yaroshenko's house, Bunin's house, Kulakov's house and Rumyantsev's house. And in the mansion of General Khitrovo there was a hospital for Khitronov residents.

In Rumyantsev’s house, for example, there was an apartment for “wanderers.” The heftiest kids, swollen from drunkenness, with shaggy beards; The greasy hair lies over the shoulders; it has never seen a comb or soap. These are monks of unprecedented monasteries, pilgrims who spend their entire lives walking from Khitrovka to the church porch or to the Zamoskvoretsk merchant houses and back.
After a drunken night, such an intimidating uncle crawls out from under the bunk, asks the tenant for a glass of fusel wine on credit, puts on a wanderer's cassock, slings a satchel full of rags over his shoulders, puts a scooper on his head and walks barefoot, sometimes even in winter, through the snow, to prove his holiness. for the collection.
And what kind of lies will such a “wanderer” lie to the shady merchants, what will he foist on them to save their souls! Here is a sliver from the Holy Sepulcher, and a piece of the ladder that forefather Jacob saw in a dream, and a pin from the chariot of Elijah the Prophet that fell from the sky.

In addition to the shelter, in Rumyantsev’s house there were taverns “Peresylny” and “Sibir”, and in Yaroshenko’s house there was a tavern “Katorga”. These were unofficial names common among the Khitrovans. Each tavern was visited by a certain type of public. In “Peresylny” there were beggars, homeless people and horse dealers. “Siberia” gathered pickpockets, thieves, large buyers of stolen goods, and in “Katorga” there were thieves and escaped convicts. A prisoner returning from prison or from Siberia almost always came to Khitrovka, where he was greeted with honor and given a job.

Cleaner than the others was Bunin's house, where the entrance was not from the square, but from an alley. Many permanent Khitrovans lived here, subsisting on day jobs such as chopping wood and clearing snow, and women went to wash floors, clean, and do laundry as day laborers. Here lived professional beggars and various artisans who had completely become slums. More tailors, they were called “crayfish” because they, naked, having drunk their last shirt, never came out of their holes. They worked day and night, altering rags for the market, always hungover, in rags, barefoot. And the earnings were often good. Suddenly, at midnight, thieves with bundles burst into the “crayfish” apartment. They'll wake you up.
- Hey, get up guys, go to work! - shouts the awakened tenant.
Expensive fur coats, fox rotundas and a mountain of different dresses are taken out of the bundles. Now the cutting and sewing begins, and in the morning the traders come and carry armfuls of fur hats, vests, caps, and trousers to the market. The police are looking for fur coats and rotundas, but they are no longer there: instead of them there are hats and caps.

The House-Iron is inscribed in the acute corner of Petropavlovsky and Pevchesky (Svininsky) lanes. The owner of the building was Kulakov. Here was one of the most famous and terrible night shelters in Khitrovka with underground corridors. They have been preserved, and during the Soviet years there was a bomb shelter here.

The gloomy row of three-story stinking buildings behind the iron house was called “Dry Ravine”, and all together - “Pig House”. It belonged to the collector Svinin. Hence the nicknames of the inhabitants: “irons” and “wolves of the Dry ravine”.

After the October Revolution, the Iron House and Kulakovka began to fall into disrepair. The shelters refused to pay the owners, and the owners, unable to find anyone to complain to, abandoned the matter.

Also, in the post-revolutionary years, crime increased sharply on Khitrovka. In this regard, in the 1920s, the Moscow City Council decided to demolish the Khitrov market, and on March 27, 1928, a public garden was built on the square. At the same time, the old shelters were converted into housing associations.

In 1935, Khitrovsky Square and lane were renamed in honor of Maxim Gorky. Historical names were returned only in 1994.

They say that the morals described by Gilyarovsky reigned in Khitrovka for only a short time - in the 20th century, when the authorities weakened control. And in the 19th century in this area there were many aristocratic houses that simply could not coexist with shelters. But many people associate Khitrovka with the “bottom” and the play of the same name by Maxim Gorky. And although Gorky drew the “scenery” for the play “At the Lower Depths” in the area of ​​the slum “Millionka” in Nizhny Novgorod, in 1902 Stanislavsky, Nemirovich-Danchenko and the artist Simov came to study the life of the “lower classes” to stage this play in Khitrovka.

On March 20, 2008, the construction company Don-Stroy developed a project for the development of the former Khitrovskaya Square. It was planned to build an office center on the site of the Electromechanical College (Podkokolny Lane, 11a). This caused protest from local historians and local residents.

After collecting signatures, the entire area “The noteworthy place “Ivanovskaya Gorka - Kulishki - Khitrovka”” was taken under state protection. Proposals to develop the area arose many more times, but local residents made it clear that they were against construction on Khitrovskaya Square.

Now all that remains of the Khitrov shelters are the basements and partly the first floors. The rest was rebuilt into prestigious housing.

They say that......Sonka Zolotaya Ruchka hid the treasure in one of the houses on Khitrovka. But no one managed to find him. Those who tried went crazy or disappeared. They also say that the ghost of a woman still wanders the streets of Khitrovsky, wanting to reveal the secret of her treasure.
...Kulakov’s daughter, Lidia Ivanovna Kashina, came to Konstantinovo to see Yesenin.
"You know,
He was funny
Once in love with me, "-
says Anna Snegina, the heroine of the poem of the same name. Its prototype was L.I. Kashina. During Soviet times, she lived in Moscow, on Skatertny Lane, and worked as a translator and typist. Few people know that Sergei Yesenin and the prototype of his “Anna Snegina” are buried not far from each other at the Vagankovskoye cemetery.
... Zhukovsky, Pushkin, Gogol and other famous writers often visited the salon of Elizaveta Mikhailovna Khitrovo, the wife of General Khitrovo. It is known that Elizaveta Mikhailovna woke up late and received the first visitors in her bedroom. Soon a joke appeared in society. Another guest greets the lying hostess and is about to sit down. Mrs. Khitrovo stops him: “No, don’t sit on this chair, this is Pushkin’s. No, not on the sofa - this is Zhukovsky's place. No, not this chair - this is Gogol's chair. Sit on my bed: this is a place for everyone!” .
...the artist Alexei Savrasov ended his life in poverty on Khitrovka. It is believed that Makovsky depicted the artist as an old man in a scarf and hat in the foreground in the painting “The Lodging House”.
... lived on Khitrovka Senya One-Eyed, who drank his eye away. He really wanted to drink, but had no money. And his friend Vanya lived nearby, also one-eyed. Senya came to him and exchanged his glass eye for a quarter of vodka.

Do you have anything to tell about the history of Khitrovka?

The city estate of Shcherbatova - Khitrovo was first mentioned at the end of the 17th century, then it was the largest landholding in the parish of the Church of Peter and Paul at the Yauz Gate, near the wall of the White City and belonged to an associate of Peter I, Field Marshal General Fyodor Alekseevich Golovin.

Residential buildings in the city estate were wooden.

In 1695-1698, Golovin built a stone house church in his estate in honor of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God. In 1748, under the owner Pyotr Ivanovich Golovin, the city estate burned down. On Gorikhvostov’s plan of Moscow, reflecting the situation in the mid-18th century, the site is shown empty, with small buildings along the borders. The temple has been preserved. The territory of the future urban estate of Shcherbatova - Khitrovo had a triangular configuration with borders along Bely Gorod Passage and Podkolokolny Lane.

Since 1750, the city estate belonged to Prince Semyon Ivanovich Shcherbatov, and since 1775, his widow Natalya Stepanovna Shcherbatova. On the plan of Shcherbatova's property for 1775, signed by the architect Vasily Yakovlev, old wooden buildings destined for demolition, a church and new volumes are shown - the central house and the southern outbuilding with passages. The property was a magnificent Moscow Baroque ensemble - an example of an 18th-century city estate.

Shcherbatova's city estate in 1780 passed to her niece Natalya Nikitichna Nashchekina. In 1785, the property belonged to Colonel Alexander Dmitrievich Karpov and his wife Natalya Alekseevna. In 1812, the area near the Yauz Gate was damaged by fire, and the house church was reconsecrated after being plundered in 1817.

Natalya Karpova died in 1821, already a widow. She bequeathed to transfer the property of the house church to the New Jerusalem Monastery, where her relatives were buried, with a request to bury her in one of the chapels of the monastery church. The house temple was abolished.

In the same 1821, Karpova’s yard was acquired by Major General Khitrovo.

By 1823, Nikolai Zakharovich was buying up neighboring properties next to the estate. He demolished the remains of burnt buildings. A meat and vegetable market was opened in the cleared and paved area. Khitrovo rebuilt the main house, built by N.S. Shcherbatova. The old decor was knocked down, a mezzanine was added, and a white stone portico was added to the house from Yauzsky Boulevard. The church was rebuilt in the Empire style and re-consecrated in 1822 in honor of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God.

After the death of N.Z. Khitrovo in 1826, the city estate of Shcherbatova - Khitrovo changed several owners until it passed to the guard Colonel Vladimir Ivanovich Orlov. The site plan of 1843 shows a wide drive leading to the house through the garden. At this time, the facades and interiors were remodeled. The main house was a 3-story building, decorated with a six-column portico. Wings and an outbuilding are attached to it.

The house church acquired decoration typical of the 40-50s of the 19th century.

From the document of 1851 it follows that V.N. Orlov bequeathed his estate with a house and church to the Moscow Trustee Committee for the Poor of the Imperial Humane Society, which was to pass to the new owner after the death of his wife, Ekaterina Dmitrievna Orlova. Ekaterina Orlova lived for a long time; some of the buildings were rented out to the merchant Yegor Ivanovich Nekrasov.

In 1889, the city estate of Shcherbatova - Khitrovo, according to the will of E.D. Orlova, passed to the Imperial Humane Society. Here it was decided to set up an outpatient clinic for the poor with an operating room for simple operations and several hospital wards. The site was finally assigned to the Committee of Trustees in 1892. The reconstruction of the house and its adaptation to a hospital began under the supervision of the architect of the Humane Society, Pyotr Pavlovich Zykov.

A new cast-iron staircase was installed in the mezzanine and in the attic, the Dutch ovens were replaced with central heating, a stone fence was installed, a new gate was built, a new wooden vestibule was built, the room under the church was adapted for a people's dining room with window and door openings made. The transition to the church was rebuilt. The large hall on the 2nd floor received a new finish, where four pairs of plaster columns were installed. Under the Orlovs, the house church was inactive. The Trustee Committee resumed its finishing. In 1893, the consecration of the house church took place, this time dedicated to the Smolensk icon.

The market established by N.Z. Khitrovo (Khitrov market) in the 2nd half of the 19th century gradually turned into one of the most crime-prone zones in Moscow, and quiet Kulishki was filled with flophouses and brothels. Khitrovka became a labor exchange for artisans coming to Moscow, and at the same time a shelter for tramps and thieves. The Oryol hospital served primarily this contingent, and the house church was intended for it. A free canteen was organized in the basement of the church.

The 1915 Valuation Roll shows the use of all rooms in the house. On the ground floor there was a kitchen and dining room for the poor, an office, a dressing room, apartments for the priest, psalm-reader, pharmacist and paramedics, housing for lower personnel, and a boiler room. On the second floor there were doctors' offices, a reception room, an operating room, and three hospital rooms. Part of the property was occupied by warehouses of the Bolshevo Shelter (a charitable institution of the Humane Society in the village of Bolshevo).

After the revolution, the Oryol hospital, the People's Canteen and the house church were closed.

In 1922, paramedic courses were located in the building of the Oryol hospital.

In 1930 The church and its basement were dismantled, and in 1937, on the territory of the former hospital, they were erected according to the design of the architect N.A. Golosova building of a multi-storey residential building. Thus, the ancient building ended up in the courtyard of a residential building.

At the end of the 20th century, the building was restored. After restoration, the western façade of the main volume (at the level of the 1st and 2nd floors), the eastern and part of the southern façade of the wing were restored to their baroque appearance from the mid-18th century. The decorative design of the facades has been recreated. The eastern facade of the main volume has retained its Empire appearance.

The main house of Shcherbatova’s urban estate – Khitrovo has retained its volumetric and planning structure within the main walls. The interior spaces were also restored. The Kasli cast iron staircase leading from the first to the second floor has been preserved, and the decorative decoration of the front hall, located in the northern part of the second floor of the main volume, has been recreated.

Currently, the building houses Medical School No. 2 named after Clara Zetkin.