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Quite often the photos look quite blurry. When you look at such images, there is no sense of clarity, it would seem important details Somewhat blurry. The first question that comes to mind is how to sharpen an image. Today we will try to do this using our favorite Photoshop.
Let's try sharpen the image, but you won’t find that you can fix all the photos. You may reasonably ask why I’m telling you about this again, because on the Internet you can find many tutorials and techniques that can increase image sharpness. I just use this technique myself, and despite its simplicity, it gives very good results. In addition, it is easy to remember; it contains a minimum of actions and settings. Try changing the sharpness of at least one photo yourself, and you will remember what you need to do, and you will use and quickly sharpen your photos.
To sharpen a photo We use only one filter - High Pass. Many people simply do not know about the presence of such a filter in Photoshop. And even if they do know, they often forget that it is ideal for increasing sharpness. By changing the degree of border passage, you simply change the level of sharpness. So, let's see how the High Pass filter can sharpen an image.
Step 1
Open Photoshop and load our image into it. You can simply drag the image onto Photoshop or open it through the File – Open menu.
As you can see, the photo is good, but there is no sense of sharpness, the edges do not look clear and the details are blurred.
Step 2
When we opened the photo, a default layer was created in which our photo is located. You can see this in the Layers palette. Now we need to make a duplicate layer, that is, another identical layer with the same image. You can press the key combination Ctrl+J, or drag the layer itself onto the icon with a new layer in the layers palette.
Step 3
Select the new duplicated layer by clicking on it in the layers palette. Go to the menu Filter » Other » High Pass and open the filter settings High Pass:
In the window that opens, set the Radius value to 5.5 pixels
Setting the pixel value for the radius is not constant, it varies depending on the image itself. Image size and resolution, image quality, and the desired effect are the main factors that can influence this setting for an image.
This image has a low level of artifacts and is quite big size, so a small radius value is quite enough to increase sharpness.
If you want to create a painting or HDR effect then you should increase the radius value. But even if you set the value too high, there is nothing wrong with that. You can adjust the effect in the next step. Here it is better to go experimentally based on your perception.
Step 4
Once the filter High Pass was applied, your image became gray and completely unusable. But in fact, this is exactly what will add sharpness to the layer below. So, for the layer that we just processed with a filter, we will change the blending mode by choosing one of three settings: Overlay, Soft Light or Hard Light.
I decided to use Hard Light.
Now you can see the improvement from the original.
Although the difference is small, we can see how this tool works. But that's not all, we can use this filter in much more interesting ways. If we duplicate the layer processed by this filter twice, we will see a much bigger difference.
Experiments
You may be wondering why we duplicated the layer twice instead of just increasing the radius. The question is actually wrong, and even a no brainer that if you try it, you will see that you will get a completely different effect.
You may notice that the image now has spots and a bit of blur. While this isn't necessarily a bad thing, it's not what we were hoping for.
The filter is High Pass, and its results are limited only by your experiments.
For example, let's go back to step four. We had the primary layer. We duplicated this layer. A filter with a low radius value was applied. Set the layer's blending mode to "Hard Light." Then we duplicated the layer twice. And it gave us a very clear image.
But we can go even further. If we select the original layer, which has not been modified, duplicate it, apply the Hard Light filter to it with more high value radius, and set the blending mode to "Soft Light", we'll end up with something like this.
As you can see, the High Pass filter is a powerful tool for sharpening your images. Don't forget also the fact that in addition to blending modes, you can also adjust the transparency of layers, which can also affect the result. You can also use quick masks and many other tools to achieve what you want.
I guess I'll stop here. I hope you found this little tutorial useful. Until next time...
A lot has already been written about increasing the sharpness of photographs. But there is always an opportunity to take a fresh look at a well-known topic and learn something interesting. In this article we will look at some of the features of sharpening and discuss different approaches to this question. To complete the description, we will first briefly talk about what sharpness is and what opportunities graphics editors offer to increase it. If you have a good understanding of this topic, you can immediately skip to part three, where you will learn about things that will help you take better photographs. Perhaps you will find something in this article that contradicts your professional view on this issue, but it is from the diversity of opinions and approaches to the topic that optimal solutions emerge.
1. What determines image sharpness
The sharpness of the image depends on two factors - the resolution of the optics and the contour sharpness. In addition, the matrices of most cameras are equipped with a so-called anti-moire filter, which blurs the image to varying degrees. This prevents the appearance of moire, but in turn reduces the sharpness of the image. Unfortunately, it is impossible to change the resolution of the optics and camera in the graphics editor, so in this article we will only consider the issue of changing contour sharpness.
We perceive sharpness in an image as the degree of contrast on the contours. A classic example of the need to increase sharpness is two surfaces of different brightness. When reducing an image, most interpolation algorithms blur the boundaries between surfaces. To restore sharpness, or, more precisely, the illusion of it, it is necessary to darken the outline in the dark area and lighten it in the light area. This increase in contrast on the contours is what sharpening algorithms use.
In the example below, the contours between surfaces of different brightnesses are quite sharp. When you make an image smaller, you have to fit multiple pixels into one, and with a normal average calculation, the outlines would become blurry, as you can see in the second example. High-quality Photoshop algorithms such as Bicubic will slightly increase the edge sharpness when zooming out. By further sharpening the filters, the contrast on the contours increases even more.
2. Methods for sharpening
We will look at what working with contour sharpening looks like in practice using the example of Photoshop as the most famous graphics editor. Other programs, such as Gimp, use the same or similar methods.
2.1. Unsharp Mask Filter
Most known method sharpening - Unsharp Mask filter. It allows you to control sharpening using three parameters:
Amount: degree of influence of the filter.
Radius: Determines which area around the outlines will be affected by the contrast change. If this parameter is too high, then it will no longer be an increase in sharpness, but an increase in contrast. For most images intended for the Web, a value of 0.2 or 0.3 gives optimal results.
Threshold: This option specifies how different adjacent areas must be for the boundary between them to be considered a contour. It is better to leave this parameter at zero. If there is a lot of noise in the photo, you can try setting the Threshold to a small value, but it would still be better to just use the noise reduction first.
2.2. Highpass filter
The second way to increase sharpness is the Highpass filter. First you need to make a copy of the layer, change the overlay mode to Overlay and remove the saturation in the copy of the layer via Hue/Saturation.
Now you need to apply the Other—Highpass filter to this copy of the layer. There is only one option in the dialog box that appears. It corresponds to the Radius parameter of the Unsharp Mask filter.
If the sharpening is increased too much, you can reduce the transparency of this layer. If the sharpness is not enough, you can make a copy of the layer. The advantage of this method is that it allows you to make multiple layers with different radius parameters. The lower layers are not hidden by the upper ones, since for the Overlay mode grey colour is neutral.
While the Overlay mode will give good results in most cases, you can experiment with other modes where gray is a neutral color: Soft/Hard/Vivid/Linear/Pin Light.
2.3. Smart Sharpen filter
Photoshop CS2 introduces a new Smart Sharpen filter that gives you more control over sharpening and, when used skillfully, allows you to achieve better results. This filter works well for images with a lot of fine detail, while for coarser structures it is better to use Unsharp Mask or Highpass.
To begin with, I advise you to check the More Accurate option. In this case, the process takes more time, but the quality of the result is incomparably better.
In Basic mode, the results of this filter resemble Unsharp Mask, only without the Threshold parameter. The main difference between this filter is the algorithm by which the program reduces the blur of the image, that is, what type of blur the filter is trying to reduce. This algorithm is specified by the Remove parameter. When set to Gaussian Blur, the effect of this filter is approximately the same as the Unsharp Mask filter, only its effect is weaker.
Lense Blur is better suited for images with a lot of fine detail because the halos around edges are much weaker with this method.
When set to Motion Blur, this filter attempts to reduce the effect of motion caused by shutter speeds that are too slow. This method only works in cases where the image is blurred in only one direction and you can precisely set this direction using the Angle parameter. In theory and in test drawings, reducing the movement works quite well, but real photos This effect leaves much to be desired and cannot replace a good tripod or fast lens.
In Advanced mode, this filter allows you to reduce sharpening in shadows and highlights. I recommend using this filter as follows:
1. In the Sharpen menu, set the Amount parameter to maximum, radius to 0.2 if the photo is intended for the Web. For printing, you can try setting this parameter higher. Select Lense Blur and don't forget to check More Accurate.
2. In Shadow and Highlight set Fade Amount to 0%, Tonal Width to 100%, Radius to 1.
3. Now, by increasing the Fade Amount parameter in the Highlight map, you can reduce the effect of the filter in the light parts of the image, eliminating white ghosting. Less often it is also necessary to increase the Fade Amount parameter in Shadow. As a last resort, you can reduce Amount in the main menu.
It should be noted that while the Unsharp Mask filter or Smart Sharpen with the Gaussian Blur parameter can be applied to one image several times, the Smart Sharpen with the Lense Blur parameter produces noticeable artifacts when applied again, so the required degree of sharpening must be selected with one application of the filter .
2.4. Photoshop plugins
In addition to the filters included in Photoshop, there are plugins that allow you to sharpen using different algorithms and offer various parameters that you can use to control changes in sharpness. Which of them is better to use, everyone can decide for themselves by experimenting with them a little. Among the most famous plugins, it is worth mentioning Nik Sharpener Pro, FocalBlade and PhotoKit Sharpener.
3. Sharpness manipulation methods
Everyone starting to work in Photoshop is looking for a filter that can do everything at once. I pressed a button and a mediocre photo turned into a masterpiece. But over time, most photographers notice that optimal results are achieved not by applying one filter to the entire image, but by varying different filters with different parameters and for different areas of the image, depending on the features of the motif. Sharpening is no exception. In this part, we'll look at some ways to control sharpening that will give better results than simply applying one of the three mentioned filters to the entire image.
3.1. Increasing sharpness by brightness
In the RGB color space, the brightness of pixels and their color values are interconnected, so when manipulating the image, unwanted color changes may occur. As sharpening increases, these changes are reflected in incorrect colors in the outlines of objects. To avoid this effect, it is better to increase the sharpness on a separate layer and change the overlay mode of this layer to Luminosity. In the Lab color space, in this case, it is enough to work with sharpness only in the L channel.
It should be noted that in some rare cases, changing the overlay mode to Luminosity may have a negative effect on the colors. This example shows how the saturation of the blue-yellow ribbon under the tiger's head decreased when the overlap mode was changed, which is bad. But at the same time, the blue halo around the figures at the bottom of the coat of arms disappeared, which is good. Simply put, it’s not an easy task to make it both sharp and beautiful.
3.2. Using masks
As you sharpen the entire image, existing noise on solid surfaces may become more apparent. Some areas that are in focus but of little interest to the viewer, such as objects in the background or skin texture in portraits, also become sharp. In addition, filters try to increase sharpness in those areas of the photo that are out of focus, and this process does nothing but increase the file size.
A completely natural solution to these problems is to create a copy of the layer and sharpen this copy. After which a mask is added to this layer, and all areas where sharpening for our photo is undesirable or of no interest are painted over. To make the effect of these manipulations better, I advise you to use a brush with soft edges and a transparency of 15-30%, brushing over one area several times if necessary.
In this example on the left, sharpening has been increased throughout the entire image. On the right, a mask has been added to the sharpened layer and only the middle part of the flower is exposed. As you can see by comparing the two photographs, the halos on the petals, where sharpness matters little to the viewer, have disappeared, and at the same time the size of the photograph has decreased.
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3.3. Working with Overlay Modes
After increasing sharpness, white halos appear along the contours of objects in some photographs. Dark halos, which also appear when sharpening, are usually less noticeable. In this case, dividing the sharpening into highlights and shadows can help. To do this, we create a copy of the layer, apply a sharpening filter to it and change the overlay mode of this layer to Darken. Then make a copy of this layer and change the overlay mode to Lighten. Now, if necessary, we can change the transparency of one of the layers or, by adding masks to them, hide areas where the corresponding dark or light halos are too noticeable.
In the following photo, dark trees are visible against a dark sky, and the light outlines that appear when sharpening only interferes. Therefore, from the layer with increased sharpness In the right photo, two copies were made and the copy in Lighten mode had its transparency reduced to 20%.
3.4. Using a Layer Property
Another convenient way to combat ghosting when sharpening is through layer properties. To do this, sharpen the copy of the layer and double-click on this copy in the list of layers to open its properties. Now, while holding down the Alt key, separate the light-colored caret and move it a little to the right. A similar procedure can be carried out with dark tones if the dark halos become too noticeable.
In this photo, the light halos have been removed using this method, which is especially noticeable on the beak and the circles of water to the left of the stone.
3.5. Sharpening by channel
In some cases, it makes sense to sharpen only one or two RGB channels, perhaps with different parameters. This method can be useful, for example, when there is too much noise in the blue channel or when sharpening portraits, where the main contours - hair and eyes - are in the red and green channels, and the blue contains more information about irregularities. In this case, you should make a copy of the image and change the overlay mode to Luminosity, since the colors at the edges of the objects will change. Now you can go to the channel list, select the RGB channels one by one, leaving the image itself visible, and experiment with changing the sharpness.
3.6. Sharpness and structure in the image
As mentioned above, sharpening the entire image is like treating everything with one pill and also rarely leads to optimal results. When working with many motifs, it makes sense to create several layers, each of which is sharpened using different methods with different parameters, then add masks to the layers and open them only on the relevant areas.
In the next photo, the sharpness of dry wood and small structures on it could have been safely increased more. For this purpose, the Smart Sharpen filter was used. There are fewer details on sand, and it is better to increase sharpness on it using Unsharp Mask or Smart Sharpen with the Gaussian Blur parameter. For clouds containing many different shapes, you need to create several copies of the image in Overlay mode and apply a Highpass filter to them with different parameters and reduce their transparency to varying degrees.
3.7. About sharpness and contours
About eight or nine years ago, a new method of enhancing sharpness began to spread among photographers. With this method, you first had to determine the outlines of objects and apply sharpening only to them. Although few people remember this, but main goal This method was not about improving the quality of the photos, but about reducing the file size. In the corresponding newsgroup (such prehistoric ancestor forums) one Adobe programmer asked in surprise why this was needed if the Threshold parameter in Unsharp Mask is responsible for approximately this, but it was ignored and successfully forgotten, inspired by a new interesting method.
Personally, I recommend not using contour sharpening. Although this method is very tempting in theory, in practice it can be very difficult to find parameters that suit the motive. Photographs in which the sharpness has been increased using this method are most often easily identified by the “soapiness” of the image. Solid surfaces in such photographs are virtually devoid of detail because they have not been sharpened, while the outlines of objects are too obvious. With small structures, like grass, things are even worse: when they are partially included in the sharpening, they resemble a mess of needles; when they are excluded from processing, they remain unsharp. Early models of digital compact cameras used exactly this method of processing data from the sensor - enhancing sharpness at the edges, necessary to reduce file sizes. I don’t rule out the possibility that there are fans of photographs of this quality, but so far no one has admitted this to me.
When sharpening increases throughout the image, light halos may appear at the boundaries of objects, which especially spoil the picture if the objects themselves have dark shade. Yes, I remember that this problem has already been mentioned several times in this article, but I consider it the most serious aspect of working with sharpening, so I remind you about it sometimes. So - about sharpness on the contours. In my opinion, the viewer is already quite good at seeing obvious boundaries between objects, so there is no point in additionally pointing them out to him. Rather, image quality can improve if you emphasize only the sharpness of the structures and, conversely, reduce the influence of sharpness on the contours by covering it with a mask.
Increasing sharpening only along the edges can be justified in only one case - if noise is too noticeable on solid surfaces, such as the sky. But the fact is that visual sharpness is also created due to some noise on the surfaces, which is precisely reduced with this method. Therefore, in cases where noise is too disturbing, it is better to use noise reduction on solid surfaces before increasing sharpening, or not to apply sharpening to such surfaces, hiding them with a mask, or even better, both.
Which of these two methods to use—increasing sharpness on contours or reducing contour sharpness—everyone can choose for themselves by experimenting with both methods. Since they both rely on creating a contour mask, let's look at the process common to these methods.
1. First, let's go to the list of channels and select the channel that contains the most a large number of contours. Now let's make a copy of this channel by right-clicking on it and selecting Duplicate Channel or dragging it onto the new channel icon. If we cannot determine such a channel or we are simply too lazy to look for it, then we will select the entire image (Ctrl+A), create a new alpha channel in the list of channels and copy the image into it (Ctrl+V). If you know how to work with the Calculations dialog, then you yourself know how to do these manipulations.
2. Now let's select our new alpha channel and call the Stylize—Find Edges filter
3. Let's blur the found contours a little using the Blur-Gassian Blur filter. The contours should become quite soft, but still noticeable.
4. If you are working using the second method, contour sharpening, then the mask needs to be inverted (Ctrl+I).
5. Now let’s call up the levels dialog (Ctrl+L) and, by moving the carriages, determine in which areas the effect of sharpening will be visible. If you prefer the first option, hiding sharp edges, then move the right and middle carriage to the left so that the sharpness is visible in large enough areas of the image. If you choose the second option, increasing contour sharpness, then move the left and middle carriage to the right.
6. Now let's select this alpha channel by clicking on it while holding down the Ctrl key or through the leftmost Load Selection icon under the list of channels.
7. Let's go back to the list of layers, create a copy of the image and add a mask to it. The selection will automatically turn into a layer mask.
8. Now you can call up your favorite sharpening method on the masked copy of the image. If the effect of the mask is not enough, you can blur it a little again, and then change it using levels or curves.
Another mask creation process that I've used before is a little more complicated, but it's convenient because the effect of the mask is visible immediately during the process itself. With this method, a copy of the image is made, a mask is immediately added to it, and any of the channels or the entire image is copied into it. Now the sharpness of the image copy is increased, and all the mentioned operations to find the contours are carried out on the mask.
Using the example below, I tried to achieve the optimal result that each method allows. In the image with the sharpening of the contours, the “soapiness” is obvious, clearly visible in the trees. At the same time, unnecessary sharpening halos are visible along the contours of the mountains. But it is possible that this particular method will give optimal results for your motive.
This photo looks much better with the edges removed. But that's my taste.
Personally, I haven’t used either of these methods for a long time, preferring the longer method of sharpening the entire image and then painting over the problem areas on a mask, or working with sharpening in areas with different structures.
3.8. Phased reduction
Another common tip for reducing photos is to do it in stages and sharpen the image after each reduction. In this way, it is claimed, details are preserved that would otherwise be lost in a one-time reduction. I won’t say that this method is no good, it’s quite possible that it helps someone. But it should be noted that when the image is reduced, small details will disappear one way or another, only with a step-by-step reduction they will die slowly and painfully, at each stage being enriched with a dark and light border along the contours, which will create regular contours at the next reduction. If, in addition, you have small structures in your photo and you are a fan of multi-colored stripes, then gradual reduction - The best way achieve moire. In my opinion, which I, of course, do not impose on anyone, gradual reduction with sharpening is only suitable for killing extra time. If anyone can give an example of a photograph reduced in this way in a way that I cannot achieve the same with one-time reduction and sharpening, I promise to take back my words and apologize.
4. Some general rules for increasing sharpness
1. Do sharpening last before saving the image. An exception can be made only if you want to create the notorious “glamorous” effect in a photo by making a copy of the layer in the Soft Light overlay mode and blurring it. Then it is better to increase the sharpness before this procedure.
2. When sharpening, view the image at 100% size. In extreme cases, Photoshop gives you the ability to evaluate sharpness at 50% or 25% reduction, but not at scales in between.
3. If necessary, use noise reduction on solid surfaces in the photo.
4. Try which method suits your image better: Unsharp Mask or Smart Sharpen, their results may vary in different cases.
5. Do not increase the Threshold parameter too much. For most photos it's best to leave it at zero.
6. Increase sharpening either on the brightness channel in Lab, or on a separate layer with the Luminosity overlay mode.
7. Don't forget that LCD monitors produce images that are sharper than CRT monitors. Additionally, some users who purchase higher-resolution LCD monitors find that it is quite difficult to read letters of that size and set the monitor to a non-native resolution. This never has a positive effect on sharpness, and how noticeable the degradation in image quality is depends on the quality of the monitor.
5. Conclusion
As a final word, I would like to remind you... no, not in Once again about white halos. I wanted to remind you that the descriptions of various image manipulation techniques, including sharpening, should be suitable for your photographs, your motives and your preferences. Therefore, the best thing you can do is to try all the methods and do as you see fit. And don’t forget that the main thing in photography is the idea and the moment, and processing in Photoshop plays a secondary role.
In this tutorial, we'll look at a couple of ways to sharpen a photo in Photoshop.
So, we have an unclear photograph, this can happen for various reasons: a mistake when focusing, dirty lens glass, certain natural conditions, and just a low-quality lens.
The entire sharpening process for Photoshop CS6 is shown in the video below.
How to sharpen a photo in Photoshop CS5.
The result is what we see below.
The first method is how to increase sharpness in Photoshop.
The simplest and most common filter is the “Unsharp Mask”.
Standard Photoshop filter. The principle of operation of the filter is simple; it highlights areas of contrasting color transitions, making the transition sharper and more contrasting. Using a sharpening filter is very simple. In the top “Filter” menu we find the “Sharpen” section, and there, in turn, “Unsharp Mask”. 
We see three settings:
1.Amount - filter action level, the higher the value, the higher the sharpness. Very large values may lead to unpleasant results such as artifacts.
2.Radius - radius of filter propagation, measured in pixels, again controlled visually, because in processing we achieve only naturalness.
3.Treshold - the threshold for using a filter, usually when used incorrectly, gives the photo a certain “plasticity”.
For my photo, 750x499 px in size, the values were as follows:
Amount - 122%
Radius - 0.5 px
Treshold - 0 levels (usually I don’t use it)
Let's see the difference: 
The second way is how to increase sharpness in Photoshop.
Using the “High Pass...” filter and overlay in “Overlay” mode.
So, take our unsharp photo and duplicate the layer. 
In the top menu select Filter=>Other=>High Pass... 
We select the parameter value at which exactly those places where detail is required will be visible. 
Next, change the layer’s blending mode to “Overlay” and use the “Opacity” parameter to adjust the depth of the effect. 
We can see the result of sharpening in Photoshop when comparing: 
The next option can be based on any method of sharpening a photo in Photoshop. Rather, it can be considered as an artistic device.
Sharpening using History Brush.
We sharpen the photo using, for example, the first method (Unsharp Mask). We reproduce the actions from the first option.
Next, in the “History” window, make a mark in the box opposite “Unsharp Mask”, and go one line above, highlighting the “Open” line. 
Now in the left tool menu, select the “History Brush” tool. 
Select a soft brush size, set the “Opacity” value to around 60, and now use the brush to sharpen the photo. And it is in those places that it would be most interesting for us to highlight. 
This method can be used not only for sharpening, but for any actions in Photoshop.
Of the huge number of ways to sharpen a photo in Photoshop, I recommend you try this one. A little skill with layers is required. This method preserves all the details of the photo and does not spoil the image. To simplify the process of processing your photos, you can create an Action.Step 1.
Opening the image in PhotoshopStep 2.
Increase the sharpness of a photo using the Sharpen filter Filter - Sharpen - Unsharp Mask
Step 3.
Double the image size. Image - Sizeimages (Image - Image Size). In my example, these are the dimensions:
Step 4.
Create a duplicate layer by pressing CTRL+J or dragging the layer onto the corresponding icon.
Step 5.
Apply to the duplicated layer Filter - Sharpening -Sharpness + (Filter - Sharpen - Sharpen More).
Step 6.
Set the opacity of the duplicated layer to 40–60%(depends on the number of small or large details in the picture). My opacity is:
Step 7
Merge the layers CNTRL+E and return the image size to its original size. Image - Image size (Image -ImageSize), enter the value 50%:
Step 8
Duplicate this layer and apply Filter - Sharpening- Contour sharpening (Filter-Sharpen-Unsharp Mask)
And finally, change the transparency of the duplicated layer to 5–30%
(depends on the amount of small or large details in the photo and the selected sharpness in step 2)
Merge the layers and save the image.
Here is the result of our work.
Many sooner or later wonder how to add sharpness so that it would be beautiful...?
Of course there are a lot of options, but we settled on one, which will be described in this lesson. This method gives very good sharpness in the photograph. Below are 2 photos that show the result.
Fig.1
In principle, the sharpness here is already good, but after reducing the size of the photo, the sharpness naturally deteriorated...
Fig.2
Sharpness was added here, although I had to go a little overboard with the sharpness to make it more noticeable... 
And so the process of adding sharpness itself consists of 4 steps...
The first two steps are simple, but I’ll tell you more about the third step.
Unsharp Mask can be used with different settings, but many years of experience have shown that only a few options are enough.
Three basic fine sharpening settings for WEB
I’ll just write about the other options as we use them less often...
Name and purpose | Threshold |
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| Soft clarity of pictures | |||
| MAX Strong sharpness, for blurry photos | |||
| MAX MAX Coarse sharpness, for blurry photos |
This could be the end...
I recommend: write down Actions for yourself and add sharpening at the right moment in one click... Well, if you don’t know how or are too lazy to write Actions, then you can download a ready-made one. This will help automate the photo processing process!
Drag the file from the archive to the ACTIONS tab. If you don't see the tab, then press the key combination Alt + F9, it opens the Actions tab.
P/S. BONUS.
How to properly reduce a photo without losing its quality?
Yes, very simple!
After each reduction in photo size, add sharpening. If the photo good quality and everything is fine with sharpness, then use "". And if the photo is soapy, then at the initial stage apply strong or rough sharpening, and when resizing the final " The finest sharpening for WEB".
Remember! That sharpening can be applied several times in a row with different radii!