(In-House movement) is, on the one hand, a marketing ploy that allows the manufacturer to set the price of a watch above its competitor only because its mechanism is “in-house production” and not purchased externally, for example, from ETA ( moreover, an ETA caliber can be better, more reliable and maintainable than a “manufactured” one). On the other hand, it is a magnet for watch lovers who are tired of the monotony of watch calibers. Well, in fact, either ETA, or Sellita, or the “modified” Valjoux 7750. And why then the transparent back cover?

But here's the problem. Manufacture movements immediately seriously increase the price of a watch. This applies not only to the luxury segment, but also to the most affordable Swiss made watches. For example, “their” mechanisms allowed Christopher Ward to significantly raise prices in 2014.

However, there are watches, moreover, from top brands, which have a “manufacture” on board and are not too expensive. Well, for Swiss watches. Because Swiss watches from popular brands, as a rule, are always expensive.

So, the first option is Alpina watches.

Alpina is one of the Swiss manufacturers that classify themselves as manufacturers that develop and produce their own calibers. The 44mm Startimer Pilot features an Alpina AL-710 movement. The retail price for the model with a steel case and a leather strap is $2,595.

If you want less sportiness and more classics, take a closer look at Alpina's sister company Frederique Constant.
Slimline Manufacture Moonphase. The 42 mm diameter case houses the automatic caliber FC-705 with 26 jewels and a power reserve of 42 hours. In steel and with a leather strap, such a watch will cost $3,695.

What else? Eg, JeanRichard, which also owns Girard-Perregaux, is also trying to raise the profile of its watches. And the easiest way to do this is to have your own caliber. The 1681 Ronde Small Seconds is housed in a 41mm case and houses the JR1050 automatic movement. With a slight movement of the hand, the in-house caliber raises the price of the watch to $5,300.

Yes, yes, yes, you say. For 5 grand bucks, is there something more status-worthy?

Yes, we answer. Rolex! Although small, only 36 mm in diameter, it is, nevertheless, a good old status Rolex. The Oyster Perpetual model with the in-house caliber 3130 will cost you $5,400.

And watches from another prestigious brand are even a little more expensive - Zenith. The Captain Elite Central Seconds watch, an excellent “suit watch” with a touch of sport in a 40 mm case, costs $5,600.

As you can see, in-house calibers significantly increase the cost of a watch. Whether it’s worth overpaying or sticking with the good old ETA is up to you to decide. In addition, you can look for an alternative from small watch manufacturers, including European ones. But that’s another story, and we mainly write about these “kids.”

14/08/2011

Just five years ago, companies producing their own movements in-house could be counted on one hand...

Just five years ago, companies producing their own mechanisms in-house could be counted on one hand. But recently, more and more new brands are announcing the launch of their own in-house caliber, which not only raises the prestige of the models equipped with it, but also significantly increases their price. Our experts found out what to expect when purchasing a watch with a new in-house caliber.

As you know, forcing Swiss manufacturers to “get off the ETA needle” and start producing their own in-house calibers was the dream of Swatch Group founder Nicolas Hayek. And this dream is gradually beginning to come true, either thanks to the numerous threats of an embargo on ETA supplies, or due to the growing sophistication of customers who, despite crises, are willing to spend more money for a watch - but they want to get more moral satisfaction for this money.
The owners and managers of newly opened manufactories unanimously assert that their own production is an investment in the future, which will allow the company to exist regardless of industry fluctuations (it’s strange to hear these words after 1969), and will also allow (also someday in the future) reduce the cost of hours, since you won’t have to pay contractors. True, for now, in-house calibers, and especially those recently put into production, cost us more, if only because building our own manufactory is a huge expense, and they need to be compensated somehow.
However, manufacturers are not lying when they say that in-house calibers are an investment. Including for buyers. Why is this phrase so pleasing to the ear? First of all, because watches equipped with such a “motor” acquire an aura of collectible value and uniqueness, so revered by fans of Swiss mechanics. Basically, the owner of the watch famous brand, inside which a “home” mechanism is installed, can fully expect that its chronometer over the years, at a minimum, will not lose, and, perhaps, even increase in price. True, for this a number of conditions must be met.
Of course, the accuracy and reliability characteristics of the mechanism must meet modern standards. It is desirable that such a caliber even stands out in some way: if not by superior technical parameters, then at least by design features. And we must not forget the main rule of watch mechanics: a good in-house caliber is, first of all, a well-processed and beautifully engraved caliber.
It was by these criteria that the attractiveness of the test hours was assessed, and attention was also paid appearance and body characteristics. After all, a worthy mechanism requires no less careful framing in order to ensure a long history.

Two years ago, the couple Peter and Aletta Stas completed the construction of a modern watch manufactory in Planlaise-Watt near Geneva, which allowed them to equip both of their watch brands: Frederique Constant and Alpina, with their own movements. Among the latter's assortment, the in-house caliber AL950 immediately attracts attention - the “successor” of the famous AL582 caliber, which Alpina produced from 1945 to 1970.


This mechanism is distinguished by the recognizable narrow winding sector in the shape of a horseshoe (developed in the mid-twentieth century for Alpina by the Geneva atelier Straub&Co), as well as the layout of the regulator indication: the hour hand is located at “10 o’clock”, and the dial calendar is located at “6 o’clock”.


The movement is equipped with a Nivarox hairspring, rhodium-plated bridges and plates with Geneva waves engraving and blued screws. All models that feature the AL950 are available with a sapphire caseback.


Ref:AL-950LBB4AE6
Frame: 46 mm, steel, sapphire crystal and case back, WR 200 meters, rubber strap
Mechanism: automatic AL950, balance frequency 28,800 vph, power reserve 42 hours, blued screws, hand-engraved “Geneva waves”
Max. diurnal cycle*: 5.0 sec/day
Min. balance amplitude*: 320o
4.0/7.0 sec/day
Price: RUB 124,080
Where can I buy: salon "Time Avenue", pl. Kievsky Station, 1 (European shopping center)

Dmitry Gurzhiy:
“The designers managed to perfectly play with the black and white style: contrasting, but at the same time modest. This is just the type of watch that you don’t have to hide under your cuff without risking being accused of kitsch.”

Breitling Chronomat B01

The celebration of Breitling's 125th anniversary in 2009 became an epoch-making event in the company's history - after all, it was then that the premiere of the Chronomat 01 chronograph with the in-house Caliber B01 movement, produced at the Breitling Chronometrie factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, took place at the Basel exhibition.


Caliber B01 was developed over a period of 5 years and features a patented start, stop and reset system, a column wheel and a patented date adjustment system using a separate pusher not connected to the crown. Finally, the movement has a serious power reserve of up to 70 hours and is a COSC certified chronometer.


Needless to say, the Chronomat 01 case, which houses the new movement, is also impressive: the screw-down crown, protected pushers, sapphire crystal and screw-on caseback provide water resistance of up to 500 meters, the case is equipped with a relief bezel of unidirectional rotation.


Ref:AB011011 C789
Frame: 43.5 mm steel, sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown, WR 500 meters
Mechanism: automatic chronograph B01, frequency 28,800 vph, power reserve 70 hours
Max. daily cycle*: 10.0 sec/day
Min. balance amplitude*: 271o
Isochronous/positional error*: 9.0/8.0 sec/day
Price: RUB 299,900
Where can I buy: Breitling representative office, st. Butyrsky Val, 68/70, building 1

Mikhail Goncharov:
“The dial is well optimized; among all, it is the most informative, but not too “crowded” with scales, and the spherical glass visually increases the display.”

In 2008, Carl F. Bucherer released its first in-house caliber, the CFB A1000. The automatic winding sector of this mechanism is made in the form of a thin half-ring sliding along its outer circumference - such a sector does not cover the surface of the bridges.


For reliability and accuracy in the new caliber, two patented innovations are responsible - the DSA (Dynamic Shock Absorption) system and the central dual system balance adjustment CDAS (Central Dual Adjusting System), ensuring unchanged settings. Another achievement of the manufacture is the design of a large date display.


On the night from the 31st to the 1st, only the disk with the first digit of the date rotates, the disk with the second digit remains in place. A year after its premiere, the caliber received its first practical modification (a day of the week indicator was added to the large date) and its own recognizable appearance: a specially created EvoTech case in the shape of a “pillow.”


Ref: 00.10625.03.33.01
Frame: 43.75 x 44.5 mm, steel, rubber-coated bezel, sapphire crystal and case back, WR 50 meters, leather strap
Mechanism: automatic A1001, frequency 21,600 vph, power reserve 55 hours, peripheral winding sector, bridges and plates decorated with “Geneva waves”
Max. daily cycle*: 10.0 sec/day
Min. balance amplitude*: 270o
Isochronous/positional error*: 14.0/12.0 sec/day
Price: 14,225 CHF
Where can I buy: Sublime boutique, Krasnaya sq., 3 (TD GUM)

Andrey Babanin:
“The caliber is tastefully decorated, the quality of workmanship is high, the original system for precise adjustment of the glucose balance is interesting, the automatic winding sector is very sensitive.”

Our experts:

Mikhail Goncharov, collector

Alpina Adventure Manufacture Regulateur


I have no complaints about the mechanism itself: it is interesting, non-standard, high-quality and based on historical heritage. It’s just strange that it was installed in a variety of Alpina series. Such a regulator, for example, looks appropriate in a “club” watch, but does not go well with the Adventure sports model. After all, it is impossible to detect and measure anything on this dial. And again, for a massive case with high water resistance, the strap is rather weak, and the clip is not very convenient for active use. Also, in my opinion, the design of the dial and the simple flat glass look somewhat outdated; you can expect more from a product from a modern manufactory.
GRADE: 5 points

Breitling Chronomat B01


This is where we see the spherical glass, which visually adds volume to the dial. In principle, launching its own chronograph caliber is a very successful step by Breitling; this is what everyone has been waiting for from the company for a long time, while the technical characteristics of the mechanism correspond to the image of the brand. And the design of the Chronomat was well thought out: the dial is optimized, not so “crowded” with scales, the size is convenient, the strap is very reliable, and there is a proprietary clasp. Of all the models, this has the highest water resistance. I don’t like that Chronomat doesn’t have a fundamentally new design that would emphasize the presence of its own caliber, and that all the models in the line are of the same type, but this is rather a subjective flaw.
GRADE: 8 points

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec Day Date


The idea of ​​a peripheral rotor is very interesting in itself, and the mechanism is made using high level. It also adds points that the company very quickly launched serial production of various variations of complications of the new caliber. Another plus: a completely new case was created specifically for the new mechanism. And in general, I would give the designers a separate high mark, for example, for the way they moved the indication of the large date and day of the week to the left sector of the dial, clearing up the space. A significant disadvantage is the price. For a steel case watch from a recently founded brand, actually a “startup”, it is quite high.
GRADE: 8 points

Dmitry Gurji, founder and creative director of the Gourji brand

Alpina Adventure Manufacture Regulateur


The designers of this model definitely succeeded in the dial: it is minimalistic, thoughtful in both contrast and color scheme, and also convenient and readable. And the large diameter is appropriate here, it is combined with the general idea and the quasi-vintage mechanism. This is exactly the type of watch that you don’t have to hide under your cuff without risking being accused of kitsch and bad taste. Although I think that the designers went a little overboard with the finishing (there is a slight crowding of the dial and an extra guilloche). So the overall impression is that this is an attractive and professionally made watch that lacks a little charisma.
GRADE: 8 points

Breitling Chronomat B01


In this model, on the contrary, everything is in order with both charisma and brand identity. Every stroke confirms that this is a Breitling design, so the target group of this watch is completely clear. But I would like to ask: was it possible to come up with something newer in terms of design for the new caliber? In addition, here we see two typical Breitling features: a massive case and small counters. Although, we must pay tribute, the dial is easy to read. Lastly, I would really like to see a new mechanism. And the fact that the back cover is solid may help protect the case, but it reduces aesthetic pleasure.
GRADE:9 points

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec Day Date


The undoubted artistic merit of this watch is that the designers decided to take such a bold step as to come up with a new original shape of the case, to move away from the classic “circle”. And, by the way, the case and dial turned out to be a successful combination of beauty and practicality. It seems that Carl F. Bucherer stopped literally half a step away from creating a real “cult” model, what is called iconic. For this, the watch clearly lacks a “zest”, some kind of effect that would immediately give the collection recognition and individuality.
GRADE: 8 points

Andrey Babanin, watchmaker, restorer, director of the Tochniy Mod service center

Alpina Adventure Manufacture Regulateur


Here we see a well-readable dial with signature triangles repeated on the crown and screws (slots in the form of triangles). The latter provides protection from unqualified service. The head is comfortable and has side protection. The belt buckle with buttons has a high-quality and reliable design. The balance in the mechanism is located on two supports, which gives greater stability to the watch during operation. The date is set by the head, so there are no extra buttons on the case, this gives additional confidence in water resistance.
GRADE: 8 points

Breitling Chronomat B01


The welt on this watch is not very convenient to use: the corners are sharp and there is nothing to catch on. I wonder how convenient it is to use underwater, considering that water resistance up to 500 meters implies this? The crown is threaded, the footer has an internal thread, which, as practice shows, is less reliable than the more common external thread, and the chronograph buttons are quite tight. Advantages: a convenient, reliable belt clip, the markings of the chronograph allow it to be used for its intended purpose, the dial is readable, the buttons are screwed in, the crown has side protection, opening the watch requires special equipment, which can protect against unqualified repairs.
GRADE:7 points

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec Day Date


The main advantage of the model: a well-readable dial. Because of the skeletal hands, the large date, which is already clearly visible, is easy to read even when covered by the minute hand. Adjusting the calendar is also convenient, the caliber is quite well and tastefully decorated, the quality of processing is excellent, the original system of fine adjustment of the balance is interesting, the rim of the latter is made of glucidur, the automatic winding sector is very sensitive. The convenient belt clip is also worth mentioning. Perhaps the only drawback of this watch is that with a screw-down crown and the absence of extra buttons, the case has very modest water resistance.
GRADE: 9 points

Whatever guides you when faced with the issue of choosing a watch, when purchasing this accessory it is important to take into account the characteristics of the mechanism installed inside. The type of mechanism your watch is equipped with determines not only its accuracy, but also how you need to handle it and even how often you need to contact a service center. If you have already been looking for a watch, then you probably noticed that the list of main technical characteristics Such concepts as “caliber” and “number of stones” constantly appear. Let's figure out what they mean.

What is a caliber?

At the everyday level, caliber is synonymous with mechanism, however, if you delve deeper into this issue, it becomes clear that caliber and mechanism are not exactly the same thing. In watchmaking, caliber is usually understood as the size of the mechanism and its location, as well as the configuration of its components. The mechanism is a caliber in terms of the features of its operation and set of functions.

Caliber names are alphanumeric designations that often reflect the manufacturer and functional features of the caliber. The diameter of the mechanism is measured in millimeters, although in the professional environment another unit of measurement is more common - the so-called line (1 line is approximately 2.255 mm).

One of the important components of the mechanism, the purpose of which is not always clear to the average person, are stones. Here we don't mean no gems, which are used for external decoration of watches, and so-called functional stones. Their task is to reduce friction between parts that bear the greatest load during operation of the mechanism. The more functions a mechanism has, the more stones it uses.

Until 1902, real rubies served as stabilizing bearings in watches; now manufacturers use artificially grown stones. Why stones? It's simple. Unlike metal, stone does not undergo oxidation and corrosion, and after polishing it retains its shape for much longer.

There is a huge number of watches on the modern watch market and all this variety, in fact, was created to solve one problem: to give a person the most accurate information about the current time. In addition to wristwatches that serve the daily needs of their owner, there are watches that are designed in a special way. For example, atomic clocks serve as a source of reference time and are constantly used in satellite and terrestrial telecommunications systems, as well as in other areas where knowing the exact time is extremely important. Another example is the unique Atmos desk clock, which actually embodies humanity’s dream of a perpetual motion machine, since the energy necessary for work is drawn literally from thin air.

We will not dwell on this clock (The operating principle of the Atmos table clock is described in more detail). Let's consider general principles operation of clock mechanisms depending on the specific type.

To keep time correctly, any watch needs a source of energy. Depending on what acts as such an energy source, it is customary to distinguish 2 main types of mechanisms:

  • mechanical
  • quartz

The modern watch industry, in addition to mechanics and quartz, can offer the buyer watches with hybrid mechanisms and the so-called smart watch, the functionality of which goes far beyond the usual measurement of time. Let's look at each of these types in more detail.

Noble mechanics

The source of energy in a mechanical watch is a spiral spring located inside the so-called winding drum. During the process of winding the watch, the spring is twisted, and when unwinding, it transmits an energy impulse to the winding drum, which, when rotating, causes the entire watch mechanism to work. The method of winding the mainspring determines the type of mechanism, in simpler terms, the type of winding (winding) of the watch.

In hours from manual winding The spring is wound by rotating the crown. During the winding process, this tiny part of the watch mechanism accumulates energy with some excess. This “excess”, which in watchmaking is usually called power reserve, allows the watch to operate for some time without refueling with another portion of energy. The power reserve in modern mechanical watches varies on average from 24 to 72 hours. The gap, frankly speaking, is not that long, so the winding ritual must be carried out regularly and, importantly, following a number of simple rules.

The first thing watchmakers strongly recommend is to remove the watch from your hand. This will avoid unnecessary pressure on the crown. You need to rotate the crown smoothly, in small portions, avoiding sudden or too strong movements. Do not try to quickly get rid of the boring procedure by performing the winding “in one fell swoop”: this will only harm the mechanism.

Advice: If the standard pulling out of the crown before starting winding is difficult, do not pull it out by force under any circumstances. Perform the manipulation in parallel with the smooth rotation of the crown, and the problem will be solved.

You can wind the watch by rotating the crown either in the direction of the hands or in both directions. Although the first option is preferable, it is still necessary to turn the crown back from time to time. This simple technique allows you to redistribute the lubricant in the mechanism and avoid unwanted damage.

It is advisable to carry out the plant procedure at the same time. This way you will reduce the running error to a minimum.

Since we are talking about movement errors, we should note the main drawback of mechanical watches. The fact is that the mainspring in the “mechanics” has the unpleasant property of unwinding unevenly, which leads to a gradual decrease in the accuracy of the hour readings. In the absence of proper attention from the owner, models with manual winding accumulate an error of 5 to 30 seconds per day.

The accuracy of the watch is determined by many factors, including the position of the watch, the temperature during wear, the degree of wear of the mechanism parts, the presence of shocks and shocks during operation, the correctness of the winding procedure, etc.

In hours from automatic winding The function of the energy generator for the mainspring is performed by a special module. Its basis is a rotor (inertial sector), which, under the influence of the owner’s natural gestures, rotates around the central axis of the watch and winds the spring through a system of gears. Modern models are equipped with such sensitive mechanisms that sometimes the slightest movement of the wrist is enough for the rotor to move and supply the mainspring with an additional portion of energy.

Thus, there is no need to constantly wind the watch, but only if you wear the watch without taking it off. If you have several models in your personal collection or you wear your watch occasionally, leaving it without contact with your wrist for more than 8 hours, it is necessary to wind the mechanism.

The advantage of manual winding is that by reviving the automatic mechanism after a long period of inactivity, you will simultaneously redistribute the lubricant in the mechanism and the crown seal. However, remember that excessive zeal in this matter provokes premature wear of the mechanism. Remarque : To fully wind the automatic movement, 30 rotations of the crown are enough. You can tell that the watch is fully wound by the characteristic intermittent clicking sound that occurs during the winding process.

An excellent alternative to winding the automatic manually is a special winding box (winder).

In special cases, winding the mechanism requires a special tool such as a screwdriver. Using this principle, it is proposed to bring back to life watches from the MP-05 La Ferrari collection from Hublot. Externally, the model resembles a car engine, and perhaps that is why there was simply no place for a traditional crown here. Although this little nuisance can hardly be called a drawback, because the mechanism of this masterpiece is provided with such a power reserve that the watch is unlikely to ever have to be wound. In autonomous mode, the MP-05 La Ferrari can operate for up to 50 days.

Remark: If you took off your watch for a short time, you can simply return it to your wrist. Nobody has yet canceled the power reserve in self-winding watches!

The disadvantages of self-winding watches include the fact that due to the addition of a self-winding module, the watch has greater thickness and weight. This leads to other inconveniences associated with “automation.” In particular, limited opportunities use in female models, more high price due to the use of expensive alloys in the rotor, lower impact resistance. The running error in such models is +/- 2-4 minutes per month.

Quartz: super precise movement

Quartz models are a relatively recent phenomenon in the world of watches, as the first watch with a quartz movement (the Seiko 35SQ “Quartz Astron” model) went on sale in 1969.

The filling of a quartz watch includes a power supply (battery), an electronic unit and a stepper motor. The basis of the electronic unit is a quartz crystal placed in a sealed capsule. Receiving an impulse from the battery, the quartz crystal begins to oscillate at a frequency of 32,768 Hz, creating its own electrical discharge. This impulse, multiplied by the distribution block, is transmitted to a stepper motor, which drives the wheel gear and the hands on the clock. It is easy to see that the function of the quartz crystal in a quartz watch is similar to the role of the balance in a mechanical watch. Only, in contrast to the balance, the quartz crystal vibrates quickly and evenly, which provides quartz watches with an order of magnitude higher accuracy than in mechanical models.

The unusual properties of quartz became known back in 1880. Then French scientists Pierre and Jacques Curie experimented with the properties of a series of crystals, including tourmaline and quartz. During experiments, the Curie brothers noticed that crystals, changing shape when heated or cooled, create an electric field with opposite charges on their faces. This unique property called the piezoelectric effect. A year later, the French discovered and proved that quartz had the opposite effect: the field created around the crystal caused it to shrink. It is these frequent and uniform vibrations of the quartz crystal that provide quartz watches with high precision, making them popular all over the world.

It is not surprising that at one time quartz watches produced a real watch revolution, forcing noble mechanics into the shadows for several decades. Quartz is more accurate, more convenient and, in most cases, costs several times less than elite models of Swiss mechanical watches, the cost of which amounts to tens or even hundreds of thousands of euros. Being essentially a miniature computer, a quartz watch allows you to program its chip in such a way that an ordinary accessory for measuring time turns into a super device with many useful functions and the increase in price is not critical. The accuracy of watches with quartz movements averages +/-20 seconds per month. By the way, you can distinguish quartz watches from mechanical ones even by their appearance: the second hand in a mechanical watch moves smoothly, while in a quartz watch it moves irregularly across the dial.

Quartz watches are easier to use than mechanical watches. They do not require winding and are powered by a simple battery. If the battery, which lasts up to 3 years, wears out, you can simply replace it. Another advantage of quartz is its greater shock resistance compared to mechanics. Quartz watches are an option for those who do not need to “keep up the brand” by purchasing expensive accessories or for those who do not want to be distracted by such routine activities as winding the movement.

Hybrid mechanisms: convenience and practicality

For those who find even replacing the battery in a quartz watch a burden, the modern watch industry has offered watches with hybrid movements. Such mechanisms use all the advantages of quartz, but are powered not by a battery, but by some external energy source.

Seiko can be considered one of the pioneers in the field of quartz technology that uses external energy sources. In 1986, the Japanese created a watch with a built-in generator, and later developed this idea, offering the buyer models with technology Kinetic. To recharge the mechanism, Kinetic watches use the same principle as mechanical watches self-winding, with the only difference being that the movements of a person’s hand are transmitted through the rotor to a microgenerator, which generates electricity and charges the battery (battery). The battery, in turn, transfers energy to the mechanism. No winding springs or batteries for you.

In 1998, Seiko released the Kinetic Auto Relay model, which added an energy-saving mode to the advantages of the technology described above. If within 72 hours the model’s mechanism does not receive power from the movements of its owner’s wrist, the system automatically goes into “sleep” mode. At the same time, against the background of stopping the hands, the sleeping clock continues its normal work and as soon as the owner takes it in his hands, he “wake up”, automatically setting the exact time. Manual adjustment is required here only for the date indicator.

Remark: In Power Saving mode, the watch continues to keep accurate time for up to 4 years, provided it has sufficient charge before entering a sleep state.

The work of models with the so-called autoquartz movement, which brands such as Omega, Ulysse Nardin and others use in their models. The fundamental difference between this technology and Kinetic technology is that some models based on autoquartz calibers can be “recharged” using the crown.

In 1995, Citizen offered its own version of a quartz watch that did not rely on unreliable batteries. A technology called Eco-Drive uses sunlight as the source of energy needed to operate the watch.

In the first models of the series, the watch dial acted as a photocell, which allowed the generator to accumulate a charge of energy when the sun's rays fell on the dial. Subsequently, Citizen released watches in which the function of a photocell was performed by the thinnest threads on inside dial glass (Eco-Drive Vitro models), as well as models in which sunlight to recharge the mechanism was not captured by the entire dial, but only by the film ring located around it.

Remark: first hours working on solar battery, Citizen released back in 1976. Apparently, at that time the innovative concept was not widespread.

Among the modern Swiss manufacturers that use sunlight as an alternative source of energy, one can name the Tissot company, which offered the buyer a solar-powered tactile watch.

As the quality of life increases, so do a person’s demands on everything that surrounds him. Today it is not enough for us to simply find out the exact time on the clock. This function is performed by numerous gadgets, and even household appliances that are equipped with built-in timers. Competition with classic wristwatch are actively making up the so-called smart watches, which, in addition to displaying the time, offer their owner a lot of additional functions. For example, they monitor his health, provide weather information, partially replace his phone and even his bank card. Time will tell what place smart watches will take in the Swiss watch industry, but judging by the fact that Swiss manufacturers are in no hurry to adopt the craze for smart watches, it becomes clear that modern technologies are unlikely to win over fans of watchmaking with its centuries-old history. For those who are still interested in smart watches, we note that Swiss-made smart watches are offered to the buyer by Tag Heuer, which in November 2015 officially introduced the Tag Heuer Connected smart model.

The choice of the type of watch movement depends on many factors, and if at the top of this list you can put price (quartz, as a rule, is much cheaper), then it should end with questions of prestige. In the latter case, mechanics traditionally hold the palm and among connoisseurs is defined as a watch created according to all the rules of watchmaking. In this case, quartz is given the role of a purely utilitarian accessory with a time display function.

Other conditions of choice are usually dictated by the situation. For active sports, during which there is always a risk of hitting the watch or exposing it to sudden temperature changes, heat-resistant and shock-resistant quartz is more suitable. Sphere business communication implies that everything that is included in your image should have a certain status. As a costume option, it is considered good form to choose mechanics in a classic style. The only question is which one? Manually wound mechanical watches are generally thinner than any automatic watch because they do not require additional space to accommodate the rotor. But models with self-winding will not require from you the almost military discipline necessary for the everyday methodical winding of “manual” mechanics. One way or another, the choice is yours.

Caliber of rifled small arms

The most popular pistol calibers:

577 (14.7 mm) - the largest of the serial ones, the Eley revolver (Great Britain);

45 (11.4 mm) - the "national" caliber of the United States, most common in the Wild West. In 1911, the Colt M1911 automatic pistol of this caliber entered service with the Army and Navy and, having been modernized several times, served until 1985, when the US Armed Forces switched to 9mm for the Beretta_92.

38; .357(9mm) - currently considered optimal for hand weapons(less - the bullet is too “weak”, more - the gun is too heavy).

25 (6.35 mm) - TOZ-8.

2.7 mm - the smallest of the serial ones, had a “Hummingbird” pistol of the Pieper system (Belgium).

Caliber of smoothbore hunting weapons

For smoothbore hunting rifles, calibers are measured differently: caliber number means number of bullets, which can be cast from 1 English pound of lead (453.6 g). The bullets must be spherical, identical in mass and diameter, which is equal to the internal diameter of the barrel in its middle part. The smaller the barrel diameter, the greater the number of bullets. Thus twenty gauge is less than sixteen, A sixteenth less than twelfth.

Caliber designation Designation option Barrel diameter, mm Varieties
36 .410 10.4 -
32 .50 12.5 -
28 - 13.8 -
24 - 14.7 -
20 - 15.6 (15.5 magnum) -
16 - 16.8 -
12 - 18.5 (18.2 magnum) -
10 - 19.7 -
4 - 26.5 -

In the designation of cartridges for smooth-bore weapons, as in the designation of cartridges for rifled weapons, it is customary to indicate the length of the sleeve, for example: 12/70 - a 12-gauge cartridge with a sleeve 70 mm long. The most common case lengths: 65, 70, 76 (magnum). Along with them there are: 60 and 89 (super magnum). The most common hunting rifles in Russia are 12 gauge. There are (in descending order of prevalence) 16, 20, 36 (.410), 32, 28, and the spread of caliber 36 (.410) is due solely to the release of Saiga carbines of the corresponding caliber.

The actual bore diameter of a given caliber in each country may differ from those indicated within certain limits. In addition, we should not forget that the shotgun barrel hunting weapons usually has various types of constrictions (chokes), through which not any bullet of its caliber can pass through without damaging the barrel, so in many cases bullets are made according to the diameter of the choke and are equipped with easily cut sealing bands, which are cut off when passing through the choke. It should be noted that the common caliber of signal pistols - 26.5 mm - is nothing more than the 4th hunting caliber.

Caliber of Russian artillery, aerial bombs, torpedoes and rockets

In Europe the term artillery caliber appeared in 1546, when Hartmann of Nuremberg developed a device called the Hartmann scale. It was a prismatic tetrahedral ruler. On one side the units of measurement (inches) were marked, on the other three the actual dimensions, depending on the weight in pounds, of the iron, lead and stone cores respectively.

Example(approximately):

1 face - mark lead kernels weighing 1 lb - corresponds to 1.5 inches

2nd face - iron cores 1 lb. - from 2.5

3rd side - stone cores 1 lb. - from 3

Thus, knowing either the size or weight of the projectile, it was possible to easily assemble, and most importantly, manufacture ammunition. A similar system existed in the world for about 300 years.

In Russia before Peter 1, no standards existed. At the beginning of the 18th century, on the instructions of Peter 1, Feldzeichmeister General Count Bruce developed a domestic caliber system based on the Hartmann scale. She divided the tools according to artillery weight projectile (cast iron core). The unit of measurement was the artillery pound - a cast iron ball with a diameter of 2 inches and a weight of 115 spools (about 490 grams). A scale was also created that correlated artillery weight with the diameter of the bore, that is, with what we now call caliber. It did not matter what types of projectiles the gun fired - buckshot, bombs or anything else. Only the theoretical artillery weight that a gun could fire given its size was taken into account. This system was introduced by royal decree in the city and lasted for a century and a half.

Example:

3-pounder gun, 3-pounder gun- official name;

artillery weight 3 pounds- the main characteristics of the weapon.

scale size 2.8 inches- bore diameter, an auxiliary characteristic of the gun.

In practice, it was a small cannon that fired cannonballs weighing about 1.5 kg and had a caliber (in our understanding) of about 70 mm.

D. E. Kozlovsky in his book translates Russian artillery weights into metric calibers:

3 lbs - 76 mm.

Explosive shells (bombs) occupied a special place in this system. Their weight was measured in pounds (1 pood = 40 trade pounds = approx. 16.3 kg). This is due to the fact that the bombs were hollow, with explosives inside, that is, made of materials of different densities. During their production, it was much more convenient to operate with generally accepted weight units.

D. Kozlovsky gives the following. ratios:

1/4 pood - 120 mm

A special weapon was intended for bombs - a bombard, or mortar. Its tactical and technical characteristics, combat missions and calibration system allow us to speak of a special type of artillery. In practice, small bombards often fired ordinary cannonballs, and then the same gun had different calibers- general at 12 pounds and special at 10 pounds.

The introduction of calibers, among other things, became a good material incentive for soldiers and officers. Thus, in the “Book of Marine Charter”, printed in St. Petersburg in 1720, in the chapter “On rewarding” the amounts of reward payments for guns taken from the enemy are given:

30 pound - 300 rubles

In the second half of the 19th century, with the introduction of rifled artillery, the scale was adjusted due to changes in the characteristics of the projectile, but the principle remained the same.

Interesting fact: in our time, artillery pieces calibrated by weight are still in service. This is due to the fact that in Great Britain a similar system was maintained until the end of the Second World War. Upon completion a large number of guns were sold and transferred to countries like this. called Third world. In the WB itself, 25-pound (87.6 mm) guns were in service until the end of the 70s. last century, and now remain in fireworks units.

In 1877, the inch system was introduced. At the same time, the previous sizes on the “bruce” scale had nothing to do with the new system. True, the “Bryusov” scale and artillery weight remained for some time after 1877 due to the fact that many obsolete guns remained in the army.

Example:

The “six-inch” of the cruiser “Aurora”, from which the October Revolution began, had a caliber of 6 inches or 152 mm.

From 1917 to the present. time caliber is measured in millimeters. In the USSR and Russia it is measured by the rifling fields (the smallest bore diameter). In the USA, UK and others. other countries according to their bottoms (largest diameter), but also in millimeters.

Sometimes the caliber of a gun is used to measure the length of the barrel.

Examples:

153 mm howitzer, 20 calibers (or 153-20). Finding out the barrel length is quite simple.

24-pounder gun, 10 calibers. Here you first need to find out in which system the gun is calibrated.

The caliber of aircraft bombs adopted in Russia is measured by mass, that is, in kilograms and tons.

The caliber of torpedoes is measured in mm. by their diameter.

Caliber of rockets (unguided

There are only two types of mechanisms - mechanical and, accordingly, quartz watch models. Caliber is the size and type of watch movement. It is customary to use numbers and letters to designate it. Caliber is synonymous with mechanism, but it is not the same thing and there are a number of differences between these concepts.

What is a watch caliber?

By caliber, watchmakers understand the size of the mechanism itself, its configuration and the location of its individual elements. The name of the caliber hides the name of the manufacturer and functional differences. Typically, caliber is measured in millimeters, but in a professional environment it is usually measured in lines. One line is 2.255 mm, but such a measurement system is rare.

The caliber number usually corresponds to the largest size of the watch movement. For example, caliber 7750 indicates that this watch is a full-fledged chronograph. The maximum diameter of the watch is 30.4 mm and it was produced by ETA.

Manufacturers

In watch production, ready-made (assembled) movements (calibers) are usually used. Only a few Swiss and Japanese companies produce mechanisms. A competent and experienced watchmaker can identify the manufacturer and all the characteristics of the mechanism at first glance at the watch. Leaders in this specialized market include ETA, Seiko and Miyota. These giants of the watch industry are constantly researching and developing increasingly complex movements that are purchased by leading watch manufacturers around the world. ETA produces more than a million movements per year in a wide variety of calibers, which accounts for almost half of the Swiss market and 10% of global watch production.

The production process of the mechanism begins with the manufacture of its individual components:

  • gears;
  • pendulums;
  • gears of various diameters.

The simplest mechanism consists of dozens of elements, while a complex chronograph can include hundreds of parts. The production and all its individual sections are equipped with the most modern and high-precision metal processing machines. There are only a few dozen specialists in a workshop of 500 machines. The workshop produces more than two million parts per day and consumes 400 kg of steel and almost a ton of brass per week. Based on calibers from ETA, watches with any level of complexity are produced, including expensive chronographs, watches with a power reserve indicator, models with a full calendar, watches with a jumping hour and retrograde functions.

The Miyota company was founded in 1981 and became part of the huge CITIZEN WATCH concern, which is the largest watch manufacturer in the world. It accounts for a quarter of the entire world watch market - 240 million devices are produced by this giant. In addition to watches, Citizen also produces jewelry, computer equipment, medical equipment, but the watch direction is the most important, accounting for half of the concern's profit. The Miyota company represents a very serious competitor to well-known Swiss companies. All Miyota movements are assembled exclusively in Japan according to the most stringent requirements and standards of famous Japanese quality.

Calibers from Japanese manufacturers are cheaper than their Swiss counterparts, this is primarily due to the ideas of the creators of the Japanese companies. Mass availability and accessibility are the main philosophy of Japanese watchmakers. ETA mechanisms are of higher quality and attractive looking, but are more expensive. Mechanisms with the “Swiss made” mark are assembled in Switzerland, although, like most Japanese mechanisms, they are produced in Thailand or China, where the level of wages is several times different from wages in Switzerland.

Basic calibers

In the production of simple mechanical watches, the most common calibers are the following: ETA: 2824-2 and 2892-A2. These mechanisms were created in 1982 and since then their configuration has changed little. This primarily indicates their high reliability and at the same time accessibility for budget buyers.

In the course of watch evolution, watches with a jumping hour, watches with a side seconds hand, models with a full calendar (day, month, year), as well as full-fledged chronographs with retrograde functions and a spring power reserve indicator were created on their basis. These calibers are manufactured by all specialists around the world and their quality does not raise any questions.

Caliber 2824-2 is found in watch models in the price range from $100 to $2,500. Caliber 2892-A2 belongs to the more expensive segment. These two calibers differ in thickness, number of jewels, power reserve and the size of the central bearing.


Stones in caliber

One of the most basic characteristics of a caliber is the number of stones in the mechanism, which serve to reduce friction between parts in contact with each other. The service life of the watch directly depends on this characteristic. The stones in expensive watches are usually natural rubies. This material best meets all technical requirements. Budget models are equipped with synthetic analogues. Precious stones were first used in 1713, and in 1902 they began to be replaced with artificial ones in order to reduce the cost. The number of stones indicates the functionality of the mechanism. A typical three-hand watch contains 17 jewels, but this number increases with the addition of new watch features.

The debate about which watch is better: quartz or mechanical has been going on for a very long time. The final choice is made only by the buyer. Mechanical watches require periodic maintenance, they are more vulnerable to external influences (shocks, moisture and others), mechanical watches are less accurate compared to quartz ones, but they emphasize the status of their owner and are superior to electronic watches in style and design, although they have a higher price.

The table shows the design features of most household watches that were produced in the USSR.

  • 00 - no second hand;
  • 01 — with shockproof device without second hand;
  • 02 — with a side seconds hand;
  • 03 — with shockproof device and second hand;
  • 04 - with calendar and side seconds:
  • 05 - with calendar, side seconds and shockproof device;
  • 06 - with digital time display;
  • 07 - with a disc instead of a second hand and a shockproof device;
  • 08 — with a central second hand;
  • 09 - with shockproof device and central second hand;
  • 10 — antimagnetic with shockproof device and central second hand;
  • 11 — with illuminated dial, shockproof device and central seconds hand;
  • 12 - with a signaling device, with a shockproof device and a central second hand;
  • 13 - with calendar and central second hand;
  • 14 - with calendar, shockproof device and central second hand;
  • 15 — with self-winding, shockproof device and central seconds hand;
  • 16 - with calendar, shockproof device, automatic winding and central seconds hand;
  • 17 - with a single-hand stopwatch, a central stopwatch hand, a side seconds hand for the current time and a minute counting hand;
  • 18 — with a second hand rest extension to one second, a central second hand and a shock-proof device;
  • 19 - with a calendar, shockproof device and without a second hand;
  • 20 - with automatic winding, shockproof device and without a second hand;
  • 21 - with automatic winding, calendar, shockproof device and without a second hand;
  • 22 - with a disc replacing the hour hand, a shockproof device and without a second hand;
  • 23 - with an hour hand making one revolution per 24 hours, a shockproof device and a central seconds hand;
  • 24 - with an hour hand that makes one revolution in 24 hours, a shockproof device, a central second hand and a calendar;
  • 25 - with zone time indicator, calendar, central second hand and shockproof device;
  • 26 - with zone time indicator, calendar, central second hand, shockproof device and automatic winding.
  • 27 - with a double calendar (date, day of the week), self-winding, central seconds hand and shockproof device;
  • 28 - with a double calendar (date, day of the week), central second hand and shockproof device;
  • 29 - with a double calendar (date, day of the week), with a shockproof device and without a second hand;
  • 30 - with a double calendar (date, day of the week), with a shockproof device, automatic winding and without a second hand;
  • 31 - with a central second hand, a shock-proof balance axis device, a double calendar with an instant change of the date of the month and a slow change of the day of the week, self-winding on a ball bearing and a signaling device;
  • 36 — balance electric contact, battery-powered, central second hand, shockproof device, operating time from 6 months to two years;
  • 37 — with a tuning fork regulator, wrist, with a central second hand, battery powered;
  • 38 — alarm clock with an electronic-mechanical regulator, with a non-free descent, a central signal hand, on ruby ​​stones, with a small-sized electric bell, battery powered;
  • 39 — an alarm clock with an electronic-mechanical regulator, a free pin anchor escapement which is combined into a single removable block, on ruby ​​stones, with a central signal arrow, a small-sized electric bell and battery power;
  • 40 — alarm clock with a tuning fork regulator and powered by a DC source, operating time of at least 12 months;
  • 41 — alarm clock with a tuning fork regulator on a transistor, with a calendar, powered by a DC source, operating time of at least 13 months;
  • 42 — alarm clock with a tuning fork regulator and powered by a direct current source, operating duration is at least 12 months, the signal operates from a spring motor;
  • 43 — an alarm clock with an electronic-mechanical regulator, a free pin anchor escapement, which is combined into a single removable block, on ruby ​​stones, with a central signal arrow, a small-sized electric bell, with a mechanism for turning on the electric bell of short-term action for no more than 40 s and powered by a battery;
  • 45 — electronic-mechanical wrist, with shockproof device and central second hand, battery powered;
  • 71 — alarm clock on ruby ​​stones, balance with an anchor escapement, a central signal hand, an audible signaling device, with a spring and strike spring in the drums. The frequency of the plant is one day;
  • 72 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an anchor escapement, a central signal hand, an audible signaling device, with a spring for travel and strike in the drums. The frequency of the plant is one day, with a preliminary musical melody;
  • 73 — alarm clock with four ruby ​​stones, balance clock with a free pin escapement, a central signal hand, and an audible signaling device. Springs without drums. The frequency of the plant is one day;
  • 74 - see 73, with calendar;
  • 75 - see 73, 74, with a preliminary signal;
  • 76 — alarm clock on ruby ​​stones, balance with an anchor escapement, a central signal hand, an audible signaling device, with a spring and strike spring in the drums. The frequency of resetting is one week, the resetting of the stroke and signal are carried out separately;
  • 77 — alarm clock on ruby ​​stones, balance with an anchor escapement, a central signal hand, an audible signaling device, with a spring and strike spring in the drums. The frequency of resetting is one week, the resetting of the stroke and signal are carried out separately;
  • 78 — alarm clock on ruby ​​stones, balance with anchor escapement, central signal hand, music device and light signal. The power spring is in the drum, the winding frequency is one day;
  • 79 — alarm clock on ruby ​​stones, balance with anchor escapement, central signal hand, sound signaling device. Stroke and strike spring in one drum;
  • 80 — alarm clock on ruby ​​stones, balance with free pin escapement, central signal hand, audible signaling device. Stroke and strike spring in one drum;
  • 100 - wall-mounted pendulum with a weight motor, return-hook escapement, without additional devices, factory frequency - one day;
  • 101 - wall-mounted pendulum with a weight motor, return-hook escapement, with transmission of oscillatory movements to the dial pattern, winding frequency - one day;
  • 102 - wall-mounted pendulum with a weight motor, return-hook escapement, with a weekly calendar, winding frequency - one day;
  • 103 - wall-mounted pendulum with a kettlebell motor, return-hook escapement, with striking intervals of an hour and half an hour, factory frequency - one day;
  • 104 - wall-mounted pendulum with a weight motor, return-hook escapement, with a striking frequency of an hour and half an hour and a cuckoo, the frequency of the plant is one day;
  • 105 - on four ruby ​​stones, balance with a free pin escapement, without additional devices. Spring without drum, winding frequency - one day;
  • 106 - on four ruby ​​stones, balance with a free pin escapement, with a side seconds hand and a balance brake. Spring without drum, winding frequency - one day;
  • 107 - on four ruby ​​stones, balance with a free pin escapement, with a signaling device according to a given program. The frequency of the plant is for a given program within one hour;
  • 108 - on four ruby ​​stones, balance with a free pin escapement, with a signaling device according to a given program. The frequency of the plant is for a given program within one day;
  • 109 - pendulum with a weight motor, return-hook escapement, with cuckoo, signal every hour and half hour. The frequency of the plant is one day;
  • 121 - pendulum, return-hook escapement, without additional devices. A spring without a drum, the winding frequency is a week;
  • 122 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement. Spring without drum, without additional devices. The frequency of the plant is one week;
  • 123 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, with a central second hand, without a striker, a spring without a drum. The frequency of the plant is one week;
  • 124 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, striking every hour. Spring without drum, winding frequency - one week;
  • 125 - see 124, with a fight, frequency every hour and half an hour;
  • 126 - on ruby ​​stones, with an attached anchor escapement, with a triple calendar (date, day of the week, month). Spring without drum, winding frequency - one week.
  • 127 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with anchor escapement, without additional devices. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - one week;
  • 128 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with anchor escapement, central second hand, without striker. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - one week;
  • 129 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, without a second hand, striking every hour and half hour. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - one week;
  • 130 - pendulum with a kettlebell motor, return-hook escapement, striking every hour and quarter of an hour. The frequency of the plant is one week;
  • 131 - pendulum with a spring motor, return-hook escapement, striking every hour and quarter of an hour. The frequency of the plant is one week;
  • 132 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an anchor escapement, with a central second hand, with a calendar of numbers, days of the week, month and phase of the moon. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - one week;
  • 133 - see 132, without second hand;
  • 134 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an anchor escapement, without a striker, with a calendar. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - one week;
  • 135 - pendulum with anchor escapement, without additional devices. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency is one week;
  • 136 - pendulum with a spring motor, return-hook escapement, with a striking frequency every hour and half an hour. Springs in drums, factory frequency - one week;
  • 137 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an anchor escapement, with a strike every hour and quarter of an hour. Springs in drums, factory frequency - one week;
  • 151 - pendulum with a return-hook escapement, with a strike every hour and half an hour. Springs are in drums, factory cycle is two weeks.
  • 152 - pendulum with a return-hook escapement, striking every hour and quarter of an hour. Springs are in drums, factory cycle is two weeks.
  • 153 - pendulum with a weight motor, return-hook escapement, striking every hour and quarter of an hour, winding frequency - two weeks.
  • 154 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with attached anchor escapement, without additional devices. Spring without drum, winding frequency - two weeks;
  • 155 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with attached anchor escapement, without additional devices. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - two weeks;
  • 156 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, with a side seconds hand, without a striker. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - two weeks;
  • 157 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, with a side second hand, with a calendar of the days of the week, without a strike. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - two weeks;
  • 158 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, without a second hand, striking every hour and half hour. Stroke and strike springs in drums, factory cycle - two weeks;
  • 159 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, with a central second hand, without a striker. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - two weeks;
  • 160 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, without a second hand, striking every hour and quarter hour. Stroke and strike springs in drums, factory cycle - two weeks;
  • 161 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, with a disk instead of a second hand. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - two weeks;
  • 162 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, with a melody. Springs in drums, factory cycle - two weeks;
  • 163 - pendulum with a return-hook escapement, with a melody. Springs in drums, factory cycle - two weeks;
  • 164 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, without a second hand, with a calendar of the days of the week, without a striker. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - two weeks;
  • 165 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, without a second hand, with a triple calendar (date, day of the week, month), without a strike. Spring in the drum, rewinding frequency - two weeks;
  • 181 — electronic-mechanical escapement, balance, with a central second hand, battery driven;
  • 182 - balance with an attached anchor escapement, a central second hand and electric winding from the mains. Spring in drum;
  • 183 - on ruby ​​stones, balance with an attached anchor escapement, winding from a miniature electric motor, powered by a 4 V battery, with a calendar. The duration of work is at least four months. Spring in drum;
  • 184 - see 183, without calendar;
  • 185 - with an electronic-mechanical regulator on transistors, with a magnet on the balance, balance with a vertical axis, on four jewels, battery powered. Duration of operation for at least a year before changing the battery;
  • 186 - on ruby ​​stones, electric with an electronic-mechanical regulator and a free pin anchor escapement, combined into one removable unit, battery powered. Duration of work not less than one year;
  • 189 - on ruby ​​stones, with an electronic-mechanical regulator and a free pin anchor escapement, combined into one removable unit, battery powered. With instant calendar (date and day of week). Duration of work not less than one year;
  • 190 - on ruby ​​stones, with an electronic-mechanical regulator and a free pin anchor escapement, combined into one removable unit, battery powered. With a strike every hour, half an hour, quarter of an hour. Duration of work not less than one year;
  • 191 - on ruby ​​stones, with an electronic-mechanical regulator and a free pin anchor escapement, combined into one removable unit, battery powered. With a musical melody played every hour. Operating time of at least one year before changing the battery;
  • 192 - on ruby ​​stones, with an electronic-mechanical regulator and a free pin anchor escapement, combined into one removable unit, powered by a nickel-cadmium battery, recharged from a solar panel.